Hello friends.. I'm having an issue with my 2013 ES and I'm hopeful that you can tell me what you think it is. The car is a 2013 ES with approx. 54K miles on it. I bought the car new and this is the first mechanical issue I've had with it. Jumped in the car to run some errands last night and when I tried to start the car, this crazy "clattering" sound was all I heard and the engine wasn't even turning over, just this clattering sound. Also I noticed the second time I tried to start the car, that the brake pedal was rigid, no give what so ever. I'm thinking this may just be a bad battery. Unfortunately I don't have a battery tester to check it. I used my phone to record what it was doing when I tried to start the car but when I tried to load the video, I got a message saying it was an mp4 and needed to be converted to another format. I converted it to an mp3, but the video disappeared. No matter, the audio is still there. So what do you guys think, bad battery? or something else. I have used interstate batteries for as long as I can remember, in fact the battery in the car right now is an interstate MTP-24F and is only 3 and a half years old. I've never had an interstate battery go bad on me before 5 years, but I guess it's possible especially when you consider I live in Louisiana where it's extremely hot. So if you don't mind, please listen to the 28 second clip and give me your opinion. btw, drove the car all over town the day before this happened and no hint what so ever the battery might be going bad. Not like the "good ol days " when you could hear a battery showing signs of weakness.

 

It’s the battery.

 

I concur with the others... Time for a new Interstate Pop...

Let us know how you make out.

 

Have you tried jump starting the car? If it starts with the help of the battery from another vehicle or a charger, I would think that would help narrow down the cause of the problem to either the battery or to the alternator.

 

That's exactly what a dead battery sounds like in an ES. Before having the gateway ECU TSB performed, I would wake up to that every few days. As Lesz said, a jump start would confirm it. I've heard that Interstate batteries aren't what they used to be.

 

Agreed. When you try to start the car and it goes click-click-click, that is the starter trying to turn the engine but failing because there is not enough juice from the battery.

 

appreciate the reply guys... I kind of thought it was the battery too. You know I've used Interstate batteries for many many years and have always gotten 5 years out of them without fail. Have the exact same Interstate MTP-24F in my 4 Runner also, never a problem.. well, this battery was pushing the 4 year mark, so I guess it was bound to happen. To be honest with you, I'm glad it's probably the battery.. that's about a hundred dollar fix and done with it.. man if the problem was one of those chips or computers, the price could have been way up there. Don't have any jumper cables ( don't ask me why I don't have any because I don't have a good answer.. used to have some, no idea where they walked off to ), but I do have an old Shumacher charger in the work shop. Think I'll go hook er up. Thanks again guys.

 

Mike I've heard the same thing but have always had good luck with them so I kinda went along with the philosophy of " if it aint broke, don't fix it" You know I also considered putting a Deka battery ( made by East Penn ) in there. They are supposed to be outstanding batteries. But I have a Deka Marine Master in my boat and the damn thing went bad after one season.. really surprised me. Some have suggested I get an AGM, but I just can't justify the cost, although I do understand that AGM's do better in warmer climates like down here in Louisiana. Another problem with Deka, is finding a retailer near by when you need one. Read somewhere that the Napa Legend Premium battery was made by East Penn.. Looked up my battery size on their web site and the battery number is the identical part number for the East Penn Deka... who knew?

 

Poppa. Of late I haveing been using Napa Battery's. If I remeber corrctly thier warranty adjustmnt period was just a bit better than others. I also also try to get a barrery with just a little higher CCA's, thinking that it will endure less stress and last longer which has been the case so far so good.

BTW: did you ever have the battery drain TSB problem fix from Lexus done?

 

No sir, to my knowledge I've never had an issue with battery drain. I've also done as you have done when it came to buying batteries that have a little more juice than is required for my vehicle. I believe the required CCA's for my ES is 585. The interstate MTP-24F has 750 cold cranking amps and 935 cranking amps. You mentioned you have been using Napa's batteries lately. I may go that route myself this time. I believe the Napa Legend Premium battery is made by East Penn, who also makes Deka batteries. Very good company from what I understand.

 

Sams club has their car batteries on sale ($20 off) his month (Sept). Duracell brand name 725 CCA. Just picked up one for my '14 ES

 

I no longer have the ES350 to go out and compare the ES350 to my GS350 battery type. But here is a recent thread with other options being mentioned also here below in the GS Forum.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post11120586

I'm sure I will be looking at a battery myself sooner or later. I had a Lincoln MKS Eco Boost Twin Turbo I recently Sold too. Ended up Warranting out 2 Interstate battery's. I'm done with Interstate myself, is why I went Napa. The Napa battery already outlasted both the 2 Interstate ones. lol!

Looking at that GS thread, I'm curious about the AMG, buit if this Napa one keeps on doing the job, it's going to be my like you said.... if it ain't broke dont fix it, go too. BTW: I'm sure you are aware of the date codes, so when I got the Napa Battery I asked them to give me one that had a date code produced within the last 30 days. Also I got worried about the change out on all my cars, so I kept power to the battery while I changed it out. Scared of all the full electronics not resetting properly by no battery power to reset everything correctly. I have seen a few threads where a swap with no power had the Climate Servo motors not all work correct after, and/or Navi Radio not booting or doing something weird, a headache I dont need. Good info on the Napa = East Penn. I did not know that. I like East Penn and rarely see them any more, but always had very good luck with them.

 

jgscott... I don't want to tick off the admins here by beating this subject to death but I did want to respond to your latest reply. As I said, I've been using Interstate batteries exclusively for years, always got 4 to 5 years without fail.. This is the first one that's taken a nose dive on me under 4 years, actually been in the car for 3 years and 7 months. Whenever I've replaced an interstate battery, I never go to a parts store, I have been going directly to a Interstate distributor so I could get the "freshest" batteries they have. In fact I emailed the guy at the distributor today and h e told me he would be getting a fresh batch in this Thursday.. But I'm also considering the Napa Legend premium battery. I believe this Napa battery is made by East Penn, which makes Deka battteries. They're American made and reportedly one heck of a well built battery. Funny thing is, the Napa battery is a little lower than the interstate when it comes to cranking amps and cold cranking amps. It's not much lower, but it is just a bit. Also I find it peculiar that the Napa Legend battery has a " longer pro rated warranty " than the interstate battery, but the Interstate battery has a longer free replacement period than the Napa.. 6 to 1, half a dozen of the other I guess. I was definitely going to give the Napa a shot, but then I reminded myself that Interstate should be giving me about a 45% reduction in price on a new battery because of the pro rated warranty. You mentioned agm batteries. Glass matt batteries certainly have their benefits, but they're about twice the cost and aren't warrantied any longer than conventional wet cell batteries, so probably not for me. Hey, I have a quick question. I charged the battery up in my ES last night.. took it off the charger and it fired right up. Then I went to bed. Went out there this afternoon and she's completely dead again. Any idea how long I can leave the battery on the charger ( battery is still in the car ). I'm using an older Schumacher ship and shore ssc 1500A charger. Don't have the manual anymore so I don't know if it will automatically switch to a float or maintain charge or if it will keep charging continuously. Battery is already toast so I'm not worried about it, just want to make sure I don't damage any of the electrical systems on the car.. And once I start the car and drive to the battery shop, what are the odds that the car will die while i'm on the way there.. Always thought that once the car is started, the battery is no longer used because the alternator provided power as well as recharged the battery.

 

No I am sure the older Schumacher has float if for nothing else safety and liability issues. At 45% off, I would likely give Interstate their last chance too, and get another Interstate!

 

jgscott, I agree with you. Tried charging the 3 and 1/2 year old interstate battery again overnight, but it would only charge to about 70%. I wouldn't have trusted it to get me to the interstate distributer even if had started, so I pulled the battery yesterday afternoon and drove it over there in my 4 Runner. I absolutely love it when things work as they're supposed to. Told the gentleman at the counter that I had a bad battery and based on the pro rated warranty I should be able to replace it with a new one at a 45% discount. They tested the battery and told me immediately he knew it had a bad cell as it only had 10.4 volts.. He said a new MTP-24F was 169.00 minus 76 bucks ( 45% ) left me with a balance of 93 bucks plust tax.. ran me 103.00 OTD. I'm fine with that. I have always liked the mtp interstate batteries because they supply way more juice than the 585 CA's required to start my ES. This MTP battery has 750 cold cranking amps and 940 cranking amps... While I was there he noticed on my account that I also had the same battery in my 4 Runner and asked me if I'd like them to check it while I was there. After he tested it he told me that the 2 year old battery in my 4 Runner was still showing just under 800 cranking amps, so I was good to go. Gotta tell you I went in there thinking they were going to try to find a way to not give me the pro rated discount, but to my surprise there was no push back what so ever, in fact they were surprisingly great about it. Nice when that happens. And another reason I like to buy from the interstate distributor is I can always get " fresh" batteries. I called him this past monday and he told me he had a new shipment coming in Thursday morning so if I could wait til then he could guarantee me a fresh one..