Engine Mount Replacement Q
Hi all, I'm a new guy here. Just bought a 2007 ES 350s. When I test drove it the only thing I noticed was a slight shudder when I'd floor it. Now that I've had it a couple days I'm pretty sure an engine mount (or mounts) need replacing.There is also a slight vibration when sitting at a red light idling. This is the same issue I had with my Accord and it was engine mounts.
I found a youtube on how to do the top "dogbone' mount. That seems easy.. When I do a google search on "engine mounts" for this bad boy I see there are 3. I can't find a youtube for the others
My question is "how hard is it to replace all 3."
Other question is "is there an online shop manual available for this?" I was able to download one for the last half dozen cars I've owned.
I found a youtube on how to do the top "dogbone' mount. That seems easy.. When I do a google search on "engine mounts" for this bad boy I see there are 3. I can't find a youtube for the others
My question is "how hard is it to replace all 3."
Other question is "is there an online shop manual available for this?" I was able to download one for the last half dozen cars I've owned.
Last edited by qmanman; Jan 25, 2020 at 07:06 AM.
I don't know how hard the other 3 mounts are. You could probably research how to do it on the 2007 V6 Camry. I'm going to guess it's almost the same since the two vehicles and very similar mechanically.
I've replaced all three. The passenger side was sheared off. When I shopped for mine, the outside mounts were available from aftermarket vendors for about $40 each. The front one, by the radiator, was available only from Toyota - got it on ebay for about $80. They were not too difficult to install but you do need to lift up the engine at the ends about 3-4 inches, one end at a time. The front required lifting only about a quarter of an inch to line up the bracket holes. You don't need a book to do this; I didn't have one. If you are a DIY'er it is not too difficult to figure out what needs to be done. If not, it may be set taking your car to a shop.
I've replaced all three. The passenger side was sheared off. When I shopped for mine, the outside mounts were available from aftermarket vendors for about $40 each. The front one, by the radiator, was available only from Toyota - got it on ebay for about $80. They were not too difficult to install but you do need to lift up the engine at the ends about 3-4 inches, one end at a time. The front required lifting only about a quarter of an inch to line up the bracket holes. You don't need a book to do this; I didn't have one. If you are a DIY'er it is not too difficult to figure out what needs to be done. If not, it may be set taking your car to a shop.
I was thinking engine mounts because I get a small vibration while sitting at a red light while in Drive.
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@qmanman - About three-four collective hours. But I got hung up on the aftermarket mounts. The driver side was not machined properly on top; had to grind down some metal. On the passenger side, I remembering swapping out the stud, but I don't remember why - either the stud on the aftermarket was too long or it was cross-threaded. Or, I'm now thinking I removed the OEM stud so I wouldn't have to raise the car so much on that side, then decided to swap out the studs cause I didn't like the aftermarket one.
Here are the part #s I saved:
Driver side: 12372-31010; DEA A4288; Anchor 9236; Westar EM9236
Center: 12361-31170;
Pass side: 12362-31040; DEA A62036HY; Anchor 9238; Westar EM9238
I don't remember which ones I ended up getting; I remember one was an Anchor. The center mount I got on ebay. A tip: loosen the bottom mount bolts on the center mount when you replace either side so you don't tear the mount apart when you lift the engine.
Note, since you'll be lifting the engine; it would not be a bad idea to drop the trany pan and replace the ATF filter if it hasn't been done and you have over 100K miles. A couple pan bolts require raising the engine/tranny; so, might as well kill two birds with one stone.
Here are the part #s I saved:
Driver side: 12372-31010; DEA A4288; Anchor 9236; Westar EM9236
Center: 12361-31170;
Pass side: 12362-31040; DEA A62036HY; Anchor 9238; Westar EM9238
I don't remember which ones I ended up getting; I remember one was an Anchor. The center mount I got on ebay. A tip: loosen the bottom mount bolts on the center mount when you replace either side so you don't tear the mount apart when you lift the engine.
Note, since you'll be lifting the engine; it would not be a bad idea to drop the trany pan and replace the ATF filter if it hasn't been done and you have over 100K miles. A couple pan bolts require raising the engine/tranny; so, might as well kill two birds with one stone.
Last edited by chuyrobles; Jan 27, 2020 at 08:30 AM.
Yes, a very, very small vibration when stopped at a red light while in D. It's not a bad vibration like my 2003 Accord. But I do notice it. If I shift to neutral the vibration goes away. That's why I assume it's the engine mount.
I'm not really worried about it any more. The shudder while accelerating was a bit unnerving. I just didn't want something to blow apart while on the highway.
According to the tire shop the left front tire was way out of balance so I thought that was gonna fix it. Instead it was worse after balancing the tires.
Next easiest thing was to make sure the tranny fluid was in good shape so I took it to to my local mechanic to have him check it out. He said the tranny fluid is good but it was the axles that were the cause.
According to the tire shop the left front tire was way out of balance so I thought that was gonna fix it. Instead it was worse after balancing the tires.
Next easiest thing was to make sure the tranny fluid was in good shape so I took it to to my local mechanic to have him check it out. He said the tranny fluid is good but it was the axles that were the cause.
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