DIY Oil Change
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 433
Likes: 19
From: Ontario Canada
I do oil change without lifting my ES350, a bit tight to get your hands under but I can get to it easy enough, follow the below youtube video, the process/parts are the same as 2007 Camry V6. I would recommend buying the correct tool to remove the oil filter canister which I did from ebay, without it it is didfficult as you can damage it. Apparently a friend of mine bought 2010 Corolla oil filter canister tool and it fits the ES350 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXLnyzA-6tM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXLnyzA-6tM
Last edited by rx300mm; Apr 19, 2011 at 12:26 PM.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 2
From: Texas
I do my own oil changes on my 2007 ES350.
The video is great. A couple of tips though, do it when the car is almost cool but not completely and you'll need the following:
Drain pain
Funnel
Sheet of scrap cardboard
Jack
A jack stand for safety
Latex gloves if you want to keep the oil from under your nails
15mm wrench for the drain plug
Some sort of tool to remove the filter housing. The first time I did mine the actual tool wouldn't do as the dealer had torqued it on so tight I needed my brother to help me get it off! We ended up using a 3' plumbers wrench. After that I only put it on hand tight - by hand you can feel the housing contact metal at the end of the threads. (I've done seven oil changes with no issues).
Filters - I use Fram oil filters, the Fram number is CH9972. I had some luck finding them occasionally at Wal-mart, Autozone will order them for you but they cost more. Last time I bought four from Amazon, by ordering four it brought my total to just over the minimum to get free shipping and it was sales tax free too so I think that's the best deal.
1. Pop the hood
2. Set the parking break
3. Jack up the front of the car unless you're small enough not to need the extra room, place the jack stand under some structural portion of the car just incase the jack slips.
4. Place some card board down under the car so you don't make a big mess.
5. Place the drain pan close by, and prepare your tools to remove the filter housing. You can either drain the fluid out of the filter housing center cap or just deal with a little extra drippage (you're going to have some either way)
6. Once the filter housing is removed and done dripping, move the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug.
7. While the oil drizzles out you can prepare the filter housing, clean it and install the new rubber seals and filter. I like to add about a 1/3 of a quart of oil to the housing with the new filter so it's not empty when I re-install it. Be sure to oil the seal on the housing so it'll be easier to get back off for the next filter change.
8. before re-installing I like to add about a 1/2 quart of oil to the fill so it helps push out all the old oil, make sure the oil pan is lined up under the filter slot and drain plug.
9. If you want to replace the crush washer on the drain plug do so now. (I don't mess with this part and I haven't had a leak in >30K miles.)
10. Install the filter housing with new filter and install the drain plug.
11. You can lower the car at this point. Put almost 6 quarts of oil in, the 3.5 ltr v6 takes 6.4 quarts and you put a 1/3 quart in the oil housing in the earlier step.
12. Replace the cap and start the engine for about 10 seconds. This allows the oil to distribute thru the motor.
13. Check the oil level, be sure not to over fill. Under filled by 1/2 a quart is better then over by 1/2.
14. Reset the maintenance minder. The instructions are in the book but in a nut shell you press and hold the trip button while you press the start button. You'll see the odometer read "-------" each dash, one by one, will disappear, when they're all gone the reminder has been reset.
15. You can take the oil to just about any auto shop or supply store for free recycling. I've taken mine to Walmart, Auto zone, and firestone with no issues.
The video is great. A couple of tips though, do it when the car is almost cool but not completely and you'll need the following:
Drain pain
Funnel
Sheet of scrap cardboard
Jack
A jack stand for safety
Latex gloves if you want to keep the oil from under your nails
15mm wrench for the drain plug
Some sort of tool to remove the filter housing. The first time I did mine the actual tool wouldn't do as the dealer had torqued it on so tight I needed my brother to help me get it off! We ended up using a 3' plumbers wrench. After that I only put it on hand tight - by hand you can feel the housing contact metal at the end of the threads. (I've done seven oil changes with no issues).
Filters - I use Fram oil filters, the Fram number is CH9972. I had some luck finding them occasionally at Wal-mart, Autozone will order them for you but they cost more. Last time I bought four from Amazon, by ordering four it brought my total to just over the minimum to get free shipping and it was sales tax free too so I think that's the best deal.
1. Pop the hood
2. Set the parking break
3. Jack up the front of the car unless you're small enough not to need the extra room, place the jack stand under some structural portion of the car just incase the jack slips.
4. Place some card board down under the car so you don't make a big mess.
5. Place the drain pan close by, and prepare your tools to remove the filter housing. You can either drain the fluid out of the filter housing center cap or just deal with a little extra drippage (you're going to have some either way)
6. Once the filter housing is removed and done dripping, move the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug.
7. While the oil drizzles out you can prepare the filter housing, clean it and install the new rubber seals and filter. I like to add about a 1/3 of a quart of oil to the housing with the new filter so it's not empty when I re-install it. Be sure to oil the seal on the housing so it'll be easier to get back off for the next filter change.
8. before re-installing I like to add about a 1/2 quart of oil to the fill so it helps push out all the old oil, make sure the oil pan is lined up under the filter slot and drain plug.
9. If you want to replace the crush washer on the drain plug do so now. (I don't mess with this part and I haven't had a leak in >30K miles.)
10. Install the filter housing with new filter and install the drain plug.
11. You can lower the car at this point. Put almost 6 quarts of oil in, the 3.5 ltr v6 takes 6.4 quarts and you put a 1/3 quart in the oil housing in the earlier step.
12. Replace the cap and start the engine for about 10 seconds. This allows the oil to distribute thru the motor.
13. Check the oil level, be sure not to over fill. Under filled by 1/2 a quart is better then over by 1/2.
14. Reset the maintenance minder. The instructions are in the book but in a nut shell you press and hold the trip button while you press the start button. You'll see the odometer read "-------" each dash, one by one, will disappear, when they're all gone the reminder has been reset.
15. You can take the oil to just about any auto shop or supply store for free recycling. I've taken mine to Walmart, Auto zone, and firestone with no issues.
Last edited by safford197; Apr 19, 2011 at 04:35 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 433
Likes: 19
From: Ontario Canada
I do my own oil changes on my 2007 ES350.
The video is great. A couple of tips though, do it when the car is almost cool but not completely and you'll need the following:
Drain pain
Funnel
Sheet of scrap cardboard
Jack
A jack stand for safety
Latex gloves if you want to keep the oil from under your nails
15mm wrench for the drain plug
Some sort of tool to remove the filter housing. The first time I did mine the actual tool wouldn't do as the dealer had torqued it on so tight I needed my brother to help me get it off! We ended up using a 3' plumbers wrench. After that I only put it on hand tight - by hand you can feel the housing contact metal at the end of the threads. (I've done seven oil changes with no issues).
Filters - I use Fram oil filters, the Fram number is CH9972. I had some luck finding them occasionally at Wal-mart, Autozone will order them for you but they cost more. Last time I bought four from Amazon, by ordering four it brought my total to just over the minimum to get free shipping and it was sales tax free too so I think that's the best deal.
1. Pop the hood
2. Set the parking break
3. Jack up the front of the car unless you're small enough not to need the extra room, place the jack stand under some structural portion of the car just incase the jack slips.
4. Place some card board down under the car so you don't make a big mess.
5. Place the drain pan close by, and prepare your tools to remove the filter housing. You can either drain the fluid out of the filter housing center cap or just deal with a little extra drippage (you're going to have some either way)
6. Once the filter housing is removed and done dripping, move the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug.
7. While the oil drizzles out you can prepare the filter housing, clean it and install the new rubber seals and filter. I like to add about a 1/3 of a quart of oil to the housing with the new filter so it's not empty when I re-install it. Be sure to oil the seal on the housing so it'll be easier to get back off for the next filter change.
8. before re-installing I like to add about a 1/2 quart of oil to the fill so it helps push out all the old oil, make sure the oil pan is lined up under the filter slot and drain plug.
9. If you want to replace the crush washer on the drain plug do so now. (I don't mess with this part and I haven't had a leak in >30K miles.)
10. Install the filter housing with new filter and install the drain plug.
11. You can lower the car at this point. Put almost 6 quarts of oil in, the 3.5 ltr v6 takes 6.4 quarts and you put a 1/3 quart in the oil housing in the earlier step.
12. Replace the cap and start the engine for about 10 seconds. This allows the oil to distribute thru the motor.
13. Check the oil level, be sure not to over fill. Under filled by 1/2 a quart is better then over by 1/2.
14. Reset the maintenance minder. The instructions are in the book but in a nut shell you press and hold the trip button while you press the start button. You'll see the odometer read "-------" each dash, one by one, will disappear, when they're all gone the reminder has been reset.
15. You can take the oil to just about any auto shop or supply store for free recycling. I've taken mine to Walmart, Auto zone, and firestone with no issues.
The video is great. A couple of tips though, do it when the car is almost cool but not completely and you'll need the following:
Drain pain
Funnel
Sheet of scrap cardboard
Jack
A jack stand for safety
Latex gloves if you want to keep the oil from under your nails
15mm wrench for the drain plug
Some sort of tool to remove the filter housing. The first time I did mine the actual tool wouldn't do as the dealer had torqued it on so tight I needed my brother to help me get it off! We ended up using a 3' plumbers wrench. After that I only put it on hand tight - by hand you can feel the housing contact metal at the end of the threads. (I've done seven oil changes with no issues).
Filters - I use Fram oil filters, the Fram number is CH9972. I had some luck finding them occasionally at Wal-mart, Autozone will order them for you but they cost more. Last time I bought four from Amazon, by ordering four it brought my total to just over the minimum to get free shipping and it was sales tax free too so I think that's the best deal.
1. Pop the hood
2. Set the parking break
3. Jack up the front of the car unless you're small enough not to need the extra room, place the jack stand under some structural portion of the car just incase the jack slips.
4. Place some card board down under the car so you don't make a big mess.
5. Place the drain pan close by, and prepare your tools to remove the filter housing. You can either drain the fluid out of the filter housing center cap or just deal with a little extra drippage (you're going to have some either way)
6. Once the filter housing is removed and done dripping, move the drain pan under the drain plug and remove the plug.
7. While the oil drizzles out you can prepare the filter housing, clean it and install the new rubber seals and filter. I like to add about a 1/3 of a quart of oil to the housing with the new filter so it's not empty when I re-install it. Be sure to oil the seal on the housing so it'll be easier to get back off for the next filter change.
8. before re-installing I like to add about a 1/2 quart of oil to the fill so it helps push out all the old oil, make sure the oil pan is lined up under the filter slot and drain plug.
9. If you want to replace the crush washer on the drain plug do so now. (I don't mess with this part and I haven't had a leak in >30K miles.)
10. Install the filter housing with new filter and install the drain plug.
11. You can lower the car at this point. Put almost 6 quarts of oil in, the 3.5 ltr v6 takes 6.4 quarts and you put a 1/3 quart in the oil housing in the earlier step.
12. Replace the cap and start the engine for about 10 seconds. This allows the oil to distribute thru the motor.
13. Check the oil level, be sure not to over fill. Under filled by 1/2 a quart is better then over by 1/2.
14. Reset the maintenance minder. The instructions are in the book but in a nut shell you press and hold the trip button while you press the start button. You'll see the odometer read "-------" each dash, one by one, will disappear, when they're all gone the reminder has been reset.
15. You can take the oil to just about any auto shop or supply store for free recycling. I've taken mine to Walmart, Auto zone, and firestone with no issues.
I like your steps. On your "step 9" .. I have never replaced the crush washer on the drain plug and my car has 76k km (48k miles) .. is this standard size washer, can it be bought any parts store ?
Thanks.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Step #9
Like you I have never replaced mine and probably never will.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Step #9
Like you I have never replaced mine and probably never will.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 433
Likes: 19
From: Ontario Canada
Trending Topics
Driver
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Synthetic oil is not required but the price difference now is not as big a deal as it used to be. I've been using Pennzoil platnum 5W-30 - get mine from Walmart. I started out using Mobil 1 5w-30 but that left sludge in the bottom of the oil filter housing so I made the switch. What ever oil you use make sure it meets Toyota/Lexus standard - you can find this in your manual.
Page 285 for the 2007 manual:
http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/do.../sec_04_03.pdf
Page 285 for the 2007 manual:
http://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/do.../sec_04_03.pdf
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
brel523
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
133
Sep 26, 2021 05:41 AM
2007RX350o
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
9
Jul 24, 2017 07:05 PM
vadim2200
ES - 1st to 6th Gen (1990-2018)
2
Apr 25, 2011 03:12 PM
