How do you reset/reprogram the rear windows to close properly, automatically. I remember something about more that 6 turns less than 10 of the motor pinion.

 

Hello,

Try the method described below.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...l-feature.html

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

I have a 2006 ES330. I've had it for nearly 10 years now. I recently had to replace a rear window motor and after replacement the auto up feature does not work properly. I can roll the window up or down completely using the up or down on the rear door or on the driver master, but if I use the auto up from either door the window goes up and bounces back open. I've been through the steps listed in this forum post and several other "fixes" I've seen online. None of them worked. I also tried some Honda reset reprogramming steps which are quite similar. I even tried doing the reset using the attached instructions from the rear door and from the driver door. I also followed the instructions on 1 site that had me take the motor off the assembly and run the motor in the up direction for 15 seconds (to eliminate the programmed stop point) prior to re-assembling things and going through a similar reprogramming process as posted on this thread. Nothing has worked.

Any thoughts? My passenger side front door has done this ever since I bought the car (used), but now with 2 doors doing the same thing, I thought there must be something I'm missing. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Great car at 220k miles still!

 

Hi friend,
for about $120 my local Lexus repair shop (not dealer) charged me to fix this but I’ve done it also.
You have to remove the motor from the regulator and spin it in the up direction more than 6 and less than 10 rotations which takes about 4 seconds. (Mark the armature of the motor with a sharpie.)
Reinstall the motor with the regulator arm in the middle position. Not at the upper end of travel because there must be at least 50 mm clearance at the upper end of travel.
Never rotate the motor to the down position until you’ve finished reattaching the glass.

credit for this info goes to the member “fortitude” in California who posted this on 11/21/2019

good luck!😁👍

 

Thank you for the quick reply. I just tried this and it didn't work, but I'm concerned perhaps I'm doing the required steps out of order or omitting key conditions. I have followed so many different processes today that I am not confident I'm recreating what was successful for you.

I can say that I'm doing all of this while the key is in the "on" position. I also have to temporarily disconnect the window control (up/down button) to get the door panel off and out of the way. Not sure there is any other way to get the assembly/motor out without taking the door panel off (and thus unplugging the up/down button temporarily). Also, given where my motor mounts are, it's not possible to reinstall all 3 screws to reattach motor to assembly and finishing with the window glass half way up without bumping the motor (engage motor to turn actuator) . I'm guessing I need to reinstall the motor such that I bump it up (after the 6+ rotations) to allow the 3rd screw to be installed. Is the additional bump to the motor problematic? Could I trouble you to be more explicit in the steps and sequencing that were successful for you? I'm not a novice at this kind of stuff but far from an expert. Thanks again!

 

I found the Fortitude post and that has some details. I'll try that.

 

Not sure what I'm doing wrong, but none of this is working.

 

It can be frustrating, as I remember you can operate the motor a little to facilitate access to all the mounting screws when reassembling but don’t allow the travel to get close to the full up or down position.
that’s all I have… sorry.
ps. Don’t struggle trying to keep the electrical connected, this is all just mechanical.

 

Its been some time since I last did this so memory is not the best

above is a variant (not exact)
remove the door switch mechanism from door panel (.40 sec mark)

when reinitializing motor, you can temp plug in this switch without having to fumble with door panel

removal & reinstalling assembly - starting at 3.07 mark, shows one for the mounting bolts is slotted. By loosening but not removing, when reinstalling you can "rehang" the assembly using this bolt first
(5.20 mark)

when time to test, with switch assembly still removed from panel, test jamb protection function. Once confirmed it works, you can disconnect switch, install back into panel & it won't erase jam memory

Here are Lexus instruction

1. Remove the power window motor.
2. HINT: Place the matchmarks on the power window motor and window regulator gear.
3. Connect the power window motor and power window switch to the wire harness of the vehicle.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and operate the power window switch to idle the power window motor
   in the up side direction for more than 6 rotations or less than 10 rotations (4 seconds or more).
5. Assemble the power window motor and regulator.

HINT:

• The motor should be installed when the regulator arm is in the middle, not around the upper end (more than 50 mm clearance is necessary from the upper end).
• Align the matchmarks on the power window motor and window regulator gear when installing the power window motor.

6. Assemble the power window regulator and door glass.
HINT:Never rotate the motor to the down direction until the installation of the window glass is completed.

Now the important question
After you spin the motor, while free from assembly, can you disconnect the switch&power to motor, mount motor to assembly, reconnect and move window mechanism for final assembly. Again, going off memory, I think I tried this first and it didn't work

What I ended up doing is fish the wire connection for motor power through hole in door frame, connect it to motor. Key ON. Spin motor as instructions say. While still connected (motor is still outside of door frame), I mounted it to scissors assembly.

Yes, it's spring loaded. I put pressure against assembly so all holes line up and installed Torx screws. It was a fighter... I don't think I used switch to move motor assembly for all holes to line up. With that said, if trying this by hand requires substation pressure, then I must have used the up switch. It may be worth a try (only using switch in up position) so you don't have to fight lining up holes by hand. If that doesn't work then try by hand method without touching switch
Install assembly to window track, mount bolts
Key is still ON & with switch still temporary connected, test up function. If works, disconnect switch & install door panel

This process sounds absurd - Toyota usually is very cleaver in their solutions. Or there is an easier way I am not aware of

 

Thanks for the reply. I will try this and reply back. It seems like this is a bit of a design flaw. I have a good mechanic that tried to fix this years ago and was unsuccessful like me.

 

I’ve been putting off changing my drivers side motor because it only fails when it’s really hot out but then works again once it cools off, so not a big deal. Only takes like 5 mins to cool and roll back up. Anyway, now I’m really afraid to change it. Especially with winter coming where my bad one shouldn’t overheat. Screw it. Going to leave it in as long as possible lol