My first Lexus.
01-07-23, 11:52 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
My first Lexus.
So hello everyone. It's pretty cool to have a car cool enough to have all this..I got a nicely loaded 2001 ES300, and so far it's been a great car. Well, after about 2k of maintenance and new shoes. Imagine my surprise when I found out that just having new plugs and wires would run almost $500! But now I understand why. And I'm glad that's outta the way.
. So I pretty much did everything the mechanic suggested,. Coolant flush, brake fluid flush, the iridium tipped plugs and tires, alignment, and a synthetic oil change. The car had a bad vibration in the front end when I test drove it so that's what prompted me to tackle as much as I could at the time. I did alot of research on this car and with only 135k on it, I knew I could probably have it another 135k. Rides smooth now. Motors strong. Everything works on it. I love it. But... there was a slight squealing sound coming from where the timing belt cover is. I know timing belts seem to be kind of an issue with these cars, at least the older ones. Sounds like starting to get wore out tensioner or like that, it seems to be getting louder and lasting longer. Anybody had this experience? I was also told that my boots on my CV joints were leaking grease but not to worry about it until the clicking starts. Btw. There's a lable on the side of the timing cover making note of the date and mileage that it was supposedly replaced, it was in 2014, with 89k on it. Now it's 136 n change. Ok ! Thanks everybody. Any help, words of wisdom or anything like that would be great.
. So I pretty much did everything the mechanic suggested,. Coolant flush, brake fluid flush, the iridium tipped plugs and tires, alignment, and a synthetic oil change. The car had a bad vibration in the front end when I test drove it so that's what prompted me to tackle as much as I could at the time. I did alot of research on this car and with only 135k on it, I knew I could probably have it another 135k. Rides smooth now. Motors strong. Everything works on it. I love it. But... there was a slight squealing sound coming from where the timing belt cover is. I know timing belts seem to be kind of an issue with these cars, at least the older ones. Sounds like starting to get wore out tensioner or like that, it seems to be getting louder and lasting longer. Anybody had this experience? I was also told that my boots on my CV joints were leaking grease but not to worry about it until the clicking starts. Btw. There's a lable on the side of the timing cover making note of the date and mileage that it was supposedly replaced, it was in 2014, with 89k on it. Now it's 136 n change. Ok ! Thanks everybody. Any help, words of wisdom or anything like that would be great.
01-08-23, 12:51 AM
#2
Regarding the cv boots.......yeah, you don't have to worry about them until the CV joints start making noise.
I do all my own vehicle repairs.....I don't know how much a shop would charge to replace the CV axles. Probably $400 for labor and $200 for a pair of cheap (retail store) CV's. $600 total (???).
Typically, most fwd axles are built the same. Each axle has two boots. The boots that rip are always the ones nearest the wheel.
Retail store replacement boots are $25 each. If you need one boot for each axle.......$50.
So, $50 vs $600........?
It's not very difficult to replace the boots if you have proper tools......definately need gloves as it's a messy process.
I do all my own vehicle repairs.....I don't know how much a shop would charge to replace the CV axles. Probably $400 for labor and $200 for a pair of cheap (retail store) CV's. $600 total (???).
Typically, most fwd axles are built the same. Each axle has two boots. The boots that rip are always the ones nearest the wheel.
Retail store replacement boots are $25 each. If you need one boot for each axle.......$50.
So, $50 vs $600........?
It's not very difficult to replace the boots if you have proper tools......definately need gloves as it's a messy process.
Oh, and congrats on getting the Lexus. Yes they do have lots of features.......and don't feel too bad about paying that much for sparks, you wont have to change them again for another 100,000 miles, maybe even longer. My son has 80,000 miles on his iridium plugs, I have over 100,000 on mine.
These are great cars and can last 300,000 with basic maintenance. The only common problem I see with these specific 3.0L V6 engines is head gasket failure around 200,000 miles. This goes for all 3.0L V6 Toyota engines whether the cars is an ES, an RX, an Avalon, a Camry, etc......but since you already did a coolant flush, you're golden for another 100k
These are great cars and can last 300,000 with basic maintenance. The only common problem I see with these specific 3.0L V6 engines is head gasket failure around 200,000 miles. This goes for all 3.0L V6 Toyota engines whether the cars is an ES, an RX, an Avalon, a Camry, etc......but since you already did a coolant flush, you're golden for another 100k
Last edited by JacobsDad; 01-08-23 at 01:20 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Saintsfan1 (01-08-23)
01-08-23, 09:39 AM
#4
Pole Position
Hello,
Here is a recent thread about replacing boots on a CV axle, there is nothing to indicate an internal problem if the boot just got dried up and started leaking, those axles are actually quite robust and will likely last you another lifetime if you replace the boots as soon as possible. My 2000 ES wasn't so lucky, the boots were not just leaking but almost completely gone, which caused the messiest grease known to man to fly all over the engine bay and the underside, it took hours to clean up, and I thing it's still haunting me to this day..
If you will miss the time to replace the boots, you will also have to deal with a dreaded carrier bearing on the Passenger side, which wasn't a very fun time in my car as you will see in the linked post, so try to avoid it at all costs. Here you can find Part Numbers for the boots in your car, make sure to go OEM, I am yet to find a descent aftermarket option that will actually last unfortunately.
As for the Timing Belt Noise, is it something reminiscent of the sound from this thread? If so, it is dreaded but harmless timing belt noise, every 1MZ-FE engine with some age on it will have it to one degree or another. There are still debates as to what causes it, some say you can just get a different timing belt, some go as far as swapping the Cam Sprockets along with the belt, and others just deal with it, which solution to pick in your case is up to how tolerant you are to extraneous sounds in a car..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Here is a recent thread about replacing boots on a CV axle, there is nothing to indicate an internal problem if the boot just got dried up and started leaking, those axles are actually quite robust and will likely last you another lifetime if you replace the boots as soon as possible. My 2000 ES wasn't so lucky, the boots were not just leaking but almost completely gone, which caused the messiest grease known to man to fly all over the engine bay and the underside, it took hours to clean up, and I thing it's still haunting me to this day..
If you will miss the time to replace the boots, you will also have to deal with a dreaded carrier bearing on the Passenger side, which wasn't a very fun time in my car as you will see in the linked post, so try to avoid it at all costs. Here you can find Part Numbers for the boots in your car, make sure to go OEM, I am yet to find a descent aftermarket option that will actually last unfortunately.
As for the Timing Belt Noise, is it something reminiscent of the sound from this thread? If so, it is dreaded but harmless timing belt noise, every 1MZ-FE engine with some age on it will have it to one degree or another. There are still debates as to what causes it, some say you can just get a different timing belt, some go as far as swapping the Cam Sprockets along with the belt, and others just deal with it, which solution to pick in your case is up to how tolerant you are to extraneous sounds in a car..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
The following 3 users liked this post by Arsenii:
01-08-23, 11:25 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hello,
Here is a recent thread about replacing boots on a CV axle, there is nothing to indicate an internal problem if the boot just got dried up and started leaking, those axles are actually quite robust and will likely last you another lifetime if you replace the boots as soon as possible. My 2000 ES wasn't so lucky, the boots were not just leaking but almost completely gone, which caused the messiest grease known to man to fly all over the engine bay and the underside, it took hours to clean up, and I thing it's still haunting me to this day..
If you will miss the time to replace the boots, you will also have to deal with a dreaded carrier bearing on the Passenger side, which wasn't a very fun time in my car as you will see in the linked post, so try to avoid it at all costs. Here you can find Part Numbers for the boots in your car, make sure to go OEM, I am yet to find a descent aftermarket option that will actually last unfortunately.
As for the Timing Belt Noise, is it something reminiscent of the sound from this thread? If so, it is dreaded but harmless timing belt noise, every 1MZ-FE engine with some age on it will have it to one degree or another. There are still debates as to what causes it, some say you can just get a different timing belt, some go as far as swapping the Cam Sprockets along with the belt, and others just deal with it, which solution to pick in your case is up to how tolerant you are to extraneous sounds in a car..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Here is a recent thread about replacing boots on a CV axle, there is nothing to indicate an internal problem if the boot just got dried up and started leaking, those axles are actually quite robust and will likely last you another lifetime if you replace the boots as soon as possible. My 2000 ES wasn't so lucky, the boots were not just leaking but almost completely gone, which caused the messiest grease known to man to fly all over the engine bay and the underside, it took hours to clean up, and I thing it's still haunting me to this day..
If you will miss the time to replace the boots, you will also have to deal with a dreaded carrier bearing on the Passenger side, which wasn't a very fun time in my car as you will see in the linked post, so try to avoid it at all costs. Here you can find Part Numbers for the boots in your car, make sure to go OEM, I am yet to find a descent aftermarket option that will actually last unfortunately.
As for the Timing Belt Noise, is it something reminiscent of the sound from this thread? If so, it is dreaded but harmless timing belt noise, every 1MZ-FE engine with some age on it will have it to one degree or another. There are still debates as to what causes it, some say you can just get a different timing belt, some go as far as swapping the Cam Sprockets along with the belt, and others just deal with it, which solution to pick in your case is up to how tolerant you are to extraneous sounds in a car..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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Lexanna (01-09-23)
01-09-23, 06:08 PM
#6
If your budget can afford it, I would strongly consider replacing every possible bush in your front (and rear) suspension with Neoprene replacement bushes.
You don't necessarily need to replace or upgrade your metal suspension components, but I can speak from personal experience when I say those Neoprene replacement bushes literally make your care feel like a brand new car.
You don't necessarily need to replace or upgrade your metal suspension components, but I can speak from personal experience when I say those Neoprene replacement bushes literally make your care feel like a brand new car.
01-10-23, 12:54 PM
#7
Pole Position
Well, while Neoprene bushings can make the car handle better, it does come at a cost of stiffer suspension. Other than that, increased stiffness of the bushings sitting in the same spots results in the core structure of the car getting weaker over time, since a lot more load is not being transferred straight to the frame instead of being absorbed by the bushings. Everything is a compromise in this world, and there is a reason why not a lot of companies opt for neoprene or polyurethane components in place of rubber for street cars, and why those bushings remain more of a performance oriented option.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Trending Topics
01-10-23, 01:50 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
Isn't neoprene rubber what most suspension bushings are made from? Poly bushings are horrible in colder weather and they don't tolerate oil at all. I'll never use them again.
01-10-23, 04:13 PM
#9
Regarding the cv boots.......yeah, you don't have to worry about them until the CV joints start making noise.
I do all my own vehicle repairs.....I don't know how much a shop would charge to replace the CV axles. Probably $400 for labor and $200 for a pair of cheap (retail store) CV's. $600 total (???).
Typically, most fwd axles are built the same. Each axle has two boots. The boots that rip are always the ones nearest the wheel.
Retail store replacement boots are $25 each. If you need one boot for each axle.......$50.
So, $50 vs $600........?
It's not very difficult to replace the boots if you have proper tools......definately need gloves as it's a messy process.
I do all my own vehicle repairs.....I don't know how much a shop would charge to replace the CV axles. Probably $400 for labor and $200 for a pair of cheap (retail store) CV's. $600 total (???).
Typically, most fwd axles are built the same. Each axle has two boots. The boots that rip are always the ones nearest the wheel.
Retail store replacement boots are $25 each. If you need one boot for each axle.......$50.
So, $50 vs $600........?
It's not very difficult to replace the boots if you have proper tools......definately need gloves as it's a messy process.
Oh, and congrats on getting the Lexus. Yes they do have lots of features.......and don't feel too bad about paying that much for sparks, you wont have to change them again for another 100,000 miles, maybe even longer. My son has 80,000 miles on his iridium plugs, I have over 100,000 on mine.
These are great cars and can last 300,000 with basic maintenance. The only common problem I see with these specific 3.0L V6 engines is head gasket failure around 200,000 miles. This goes for all 3.0L V6 Toyota engines whether the cars is an ES, an RX, an Avalon, a Camry, etc......but since you already did a coolant flush, you're golden for another 100k
These are great cars and can last 300,000 with basic maintenance. The only common problem I see with these specific 3.0L V6 engines is head gasket failure around 200,000 miles. This goes for all 3.0L V6 Toyota engines whether the cars is an ES, an RX, an Avalon, a Camry, etc......but since you already did a coolant flush, you're golden for another 100k
I mean if you have a lift or at the least several jacks.
Are you being serious?
01-10-23, 04:23 PM
#10
That said, I CAN say with personal certainty that my 92 ES300 has Nolathane (brand name) bushes on every possible suspension pivot point, along with the sway bar pivot points. And I personally love the results.
I have brand swing arms on all 4 corners, new KYB Shock Absorbers on all 4 corners, new springs on all 4 corners, new cross drilled rotors on all 4 corners, and refurbished calipers on all 4 corners.
Along with new brake lines and ABS sensors.
To be perfectly accurate, all of the above was installed in 2019.
You've seen the quality of my engine bay... that's what my suspension also looks like.
The car definitely has a "new car" feel to it... I personally love the ride quality. Not a squeak or a rattle or noise harshness coming from the car anywhere.
01-10-23, 07:01 PM
#11
Pole Position
Not sure, not the old ones I think..
Huh, it will be interesting to see how they will hold up in the long term. Maybe it's just the fact that not a whole lot of people are willing to go out of their way to replace just the bushings and would rather swap out the whole arm, but there aren't a lot of OEM-spec bushings on sale in US, at least that I am aware of, which can also be a major cause for a lot of negative vibe around aftermarket bushing replacements.
Huh, it will be interesting to see how they will hold up in the long term. Maybe it's just the fact that not a whole lot of people are willing to go out of their way to replace just the bushings and would rather swap out the whole arm, but there aren't a lot of OEM-spec bushings on sale in US, at least that I am aware of, which can also be a major cause for a lot of negative vibe around aftermarket bushing replacements.
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