Valve Cover Bolts
#1
Valve Cover Bolts
Somebody on here suggested that it's a good idea to replace all 16 washers on the valve cover bolts, but I just don't understand how you can do that. And is it really necessary?
First of all, I can't remove the washers because of the little ridge that each bolt has. And secondly, the washers and bolts are sold separately - so how am I supposed to put them together?
EDIT: Part Number 90080-10288 comes with the washer already on the bolt.
First of all, I can't remove the washers because of the little ridge that each bolt has. And secondly, the washers and bolts are sold separately - so how am I supposed to put them together?
EDIT: Part Number 90080-10288 comes with the washer already on the bolt.
Last edited by Hayk; 08-08-11 at 11:34 PM.
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MichaelPm (10-30-18)
#3
Torque on these are 10 ft lbs if I remember correctly.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
also, i was saying you have to have a extra washer to make it possible to torque it higher.
the reason why 1MZs love to leak oil through valve cover gasket is because they only torque it to 10lbs and the extra washer and 30lbs has been proven to solve the leak problem over the long run.
#5
if a 10mm automotive bolt can't handle 30 lbs of torque, its probably made of plastic.
also, i was saying you have to have a extra washer to make it possible to torque it higher.
the reason why 1MZs love to leak oil through valve cover gasket is because they only torque it to 10lbs and the extra washer and 30lbs has been proven to solve the leak problem over the long run.
also, i was saying you have to have a extra washer to make it possible to torque it higher.
the reason why 1MZs love to leak oil through valve cover gasket is because they only torque it to 10lbs and the extra washer and 30lbs has been proven to solve the leak problem over the long run.
The thing that I don't understand is how can adding a washer prevent a bolt from breaking off? Doesn't the washer just shorten the length of the bolt?
#6
Anyways, I found the part number for this bolt. It's 90080-10288 (MSRP $1.75) and supposedly it comes with the washer. That's what I'm going to buy.
Last edited by Hayk; 08-09-11 at 12:07 AM.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
^that won't solve the problem over the long rum
over the long run, the valve cover gasket will flatten and harden. when that happens, you will need the extra torque to hold the gasket down.
what mrBooby is saynig is exactly right. the stock bolt is too long to overtorque, it'll bottom out. with the extra washer, it's doable.
over the long run, the valve cover gasket will flatten and harden. when that happens, you will need the extra torque to hold the gasket down.
what mrBooby is saynig is exactly right. the stock bolt is too long to overtorque, it'll bottom out. with the extra washer, it's doable.
#9
I ordered 16 bolts today and will work on replacing the old ones this weekend.
Do you guys think it will be ok to just change one bolt at a time without replacing the valve gasket?
If not, I gotta order them too.
Do you guys think it will be ok to just change one bolt at a time without replacing the valve gasket?
If not, I gotta order them too.
#11
So far, I bought all 3 (yes three) coolant hoses and new clamps, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, 16 valve cover bolts, spark plugs gaskets, RTV, intake plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, thermostat (decided not to mess with it), coolant, pcv valve + grommet, and some other little stuff like special sockets (Torx E6 and 5/16" Allen). I also had to fix my front brakes, but that's completely unrelated. Oh and I had to get a new headlight housing. I've spent over a grand in parts and the car hasn't moved in almost a month....
There is also the power steering and the sway bars which will need to be taken care of down the road. The reason I'm mentioning them is because I found the issues while doing other stuff.
About the washers: I rather replace the gaskets when they go bad again (hopefully not in the near future), than over tighten my bolts. I like to stick with what the Toyota Engineers had in mind.
Last edited by Hayk; 08-17-11 at 02:09 PM.
#12
Be prepared to curse whoever designed this engine. I'm doing the valve covers, and what I thought was going to be an easy fix, turned into a maintenance nightmare. It's a lot of, "well since I'm already here, I might as well..."
So far, I bought all 3 (yes three) coolant hoses and new clamps, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, 16 valve cover bolts, spark plugs gaskets, RTV, intake plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, thermostat (decided not to mess with it), coolant, pcv valve + grommet, and some other little stuff like special sockets (Torx E6 and 5/16" Allen). I also had to fix my front brakes, but that's completely unrelated. Anyways, Oh and I had to get a new headlight housing. I've spent over a grand in parts and the car hasn't moved in almost a month....
There is also the power steering and the sway bars which will need to be taken care of down the road. The reason I'm mentioning them is because I found the issues while doing other stuff.
About the washers: I rather replace the gaskets when they go bad again (hopefully not in the near future), than over tighten my bolts. I like to stick with what the Toyota Engineers had in mind.
So far, I bought all 3 (yes three) coolant hoses and new clamps, new spark plug wires, new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, 16 valve cover bolts, spark plugs gaskets, RTV, intake plenum gasket, intake manifold gaskets, thermostat (decided not to mess with it), coolant, pcv valve + grommet, and some other little stuff like special sockets (Torx E6 and 5/16" Allen). I also had to fix my front brakes, but that's completely unrelated. Anyways, Oh and I had to get a new headlight housing. I've spent over a grand in parts and the car hasn't moved in almost a month....
There is also the power steering and the sway bars which will need to be taken care of down the road. The reason I'm mentioning them is because I found the issues while doing other stuff.
About the washers: I rather replace the gaskets when they go bad again (hopefully not in the near future), than over tighten my bolts. I like to stick with what the Toyota Engineers had in mind.
Good luck with all that stuff.
I'm gonna hold off on doing anything major until I can put my car in the garage for a month or so. I also have many things I need to do to get my car up to date. I need to change the timing belt, water pump and all the seals near the crank as I have an oil leak. I know this will take me a while as I have never done this before and will be taking my time doing the research and buying the necessary parts and tools. I know that it will be worth the trouble as these cars will last with proper maintenance. I really think I can get 500K miles on mine.
#13
Oh My, that sounds fun!
Good luck with all that stuff.
I'm gonna hold off on doing anything major until I can put my car in the garage for a month or so. I also have many things I need to do to get my car up to date. I need to change the timing belt, water pump and all the seals near the crank as I have an oil leak. I know this will take me a while as I have never done this before and will be taking my time doing the research and buying the necessary parts and tools. I know that it will be worth the trouble as these cars will last with proper maintenance. I really think I can get 500K miles on mine.
Good luck with all that stuff.
I'm gonna hold off on doing anything major until I can put my car in the garage for a month or so. I also have many things I need to do to get my car up to date. I need to change the timing belt, water pump and all the seals near the crank as I have an oil leak. I know this will take me a while as I have never done this before and will be taking my time doing the research and buying the necessary parts and tools. I know that it will be worth the trouble as these cars will last with proper maintenance. I really think I can get 500K miles on mine.
#14
I just changed the timing belt on my 95 Camry v6 with the 1MZ-FE engine, the same as yours. It was not too difficult. The hardest part for me was getting the power steering drive belt back on. I was going to replace the water pump but I needed a tool to hold the camshafts. (I've ordered a tool that should allow me to hold the pulley's when I remove the retaining nut.) I'll replace the water pump next time. There are several good video's and DIY's around. I also followed the service manual instructions for a 94 Camry. That was nice because it showed what bolts to remove and where they were located when removing parts.
I thought I screwed up trying to remove the camshaft pulley. I rotated the pulley off TDC. Then I noticed in the replacement instructions it said prior to installing the timing belts to rotate the camshafts and crankshaft to line up the timing marks. So I did. No problem.
I thought I screwed up trying to remove the camshaft pulley. I rotated the pulley off TDC. Then I noticed in the replacement instructions it said prior to installing the timing belts to rotate the camshafts and crankshaft to line up the timing marks. So I did. No problem.
The following users liked this post:
MichaelPm (10-30-18)
#15
I just changed the timing belt on my 95 Camry v6 with the 1MZ-FE engine, the same as yours. It was not too difficult. The hardest part for me was getting the power steering drive belt back on. I was going to replace the water pump but I needed a tool to hold the camshafts. (I've ordered a tool that should allow me to hold the pulley's when I remove the retaining nut.) I'll replace the water pump next time. There are several good video's and DIY's around. I also followed the service manual instructions for a 94 Camry. That was nice because it showed what bolts to remove and where they were located when removing parts.
I thought I screwed up trying to remove the camshaft pulley. I rotated the pulley off TDC. Then I noticed in the replacement instructions it said prior to installing the timing belts to rotate the camshafts and crankshaft to line up the timing marks. So I did. No problem.
I thought I screwed up trying to remove the camshaft pulley. I rotated the pulley off TDC. Then I noticed in the replacement instructions it said prior to installing the timing belts to rotate the camshafts and crankshaft to line up the timing marks. So I did. No problem.
What is the tool that you need ?
I probably will need to order it before I start the timing belt / water pump replacement.