Is 94 ES300 safe from fob hacking? Also can trunk be opened via under car see links
01-22-24, 02:14 AM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Is 94 ES300 safe from fob hacking? Also can trunk be opened via under car see links
All my 94 ES300 has is a remote lock/unlock key
Hack to get in trunk in below link Toyota Camry
https://youtu.be/6L_uAoVIBEo?si=IOqOf5VTD3wxVcW9
Link below fob hacking for entry snd startup and signal blocking pouch
https://youtu.be/2tQVov0Ra8g?si=OGtL59RM-s-CIfSi
Is my wifes 2010 Toyota Matrix punch to unlock fob hacker vunerable? She uses a key to start.
Hack to get in trunk in below link Toyota Camry
https://youtu.be/6L_uAoVIBEo?si=IOqOf5VTD3wxVcW9
Link below fob hacking for entry snd startup and signal blocking pouch
https://youtu.be/2tQVov0Ra8g?si=OGtL59RM-s-CIfSi
Is my wifes 2010 Toyota Matrix punch to unlock fob hacker vunerable? She uses a key to start.
01-22-24, 07:59 AM
#2
Pole Position
Hello,
Okay, not even sure where to start..
Let's go from the very beginning, and try to work out a probability of anyone needing to go through a considerable trouble to get any of your cars that, let's be honest, are past their prime time by now, and are barely more than $5,000 each, when for the same effort spent, you can get a car that's worth 10x of what you have. I may be stuck in this idealistic pony-driven world, but I don't see anyone seeking out old Lexus models to ship overseas, unless someone decides they are REALLY done looking at all the scrap metal on the road.
Toyotas were always notoriously easy to start up without a key, let alone getting inside of one. There is a whole list of vulnerabilities in their security systems, like the fact that turning the door lock Always disables the alarm system, regardless of what tool you used to turn it, especially in your ES as it was described in one of the previous threads. For a newer car with an immobilizer, all you need is to get an ECU with a matching key off of any other car, as this is where the key is stored, and there is no protection in place to recognize that this is not the car's original ECU, unlike Component Protection in any more or less modern VAG.
And for what it's worth, I would argue that it is a good thing, as systems like that have a very llimited useful lifespan before transforming from an actual tool into a nuisance, not because they are unreliable, but because they are almost too reliable for no apparent purpose, and after a certain time, you will be the only one left as a victim of its trials, simply look at a number of posts with people desperate for an easy solution when they loose their only key, or when this new system start glitching out in every way possible.
If none of this was too convincing and you are still concerned, the only proper way of going about it would be to set up an actual, proper anti-theft system, and while it is a pretty vast topic, I will try to keep it brief. Starting off with the door locks, there is very little chance you will be able to stop anyone from getting inside your car, from stealing your key to simply busting a window open, there isn't much you can do to avoid it, but what you can do is ensure that the engine won't start with the use of additional Immobilizer system, but that’s a topic for another day, for now all you need to remember is that in this case, you don't have to be the best, you only need to beat your neighbor.
Hope this help and best of luck!
Okay, not even sure where to start..
Let's go from the very beginning, and try to work out a probability of anyone needing to go through a considerable trouble to get any of your cars that, let's be honest, are past their prime time by now, and are barely more than $5,000 each, when for the same effort spent, you can get a car that's worth 10x of what you have. I may be stuck in this idealistic pony-driven world, but I don't see anyone seeking out old Lexus models to ship overseas, unless someone decides they are REALLY done looking at all the scrap metal on the road.
Toyotas were always notoriously easy to start up without a key, let alone getting inside of one. There is a whole list of vulnerabilities in their security systems, like the fact that turning the door lock Always disables the alarm system, regardless of what tool you used to turn it, especially in your ES as it was described in one of the previous threads. For a newer car with an immobilizer, all you need is to get an ECU with a matching key off of any other car, as this is where the key is stored, and there is no protection in place to recognize that this is not the car's original ECU, unlike Component Protection in any more or less modern VAG.
And for what it's worth, I would argue that it is a good thing, as systems like that have a very llimited useful lifespan before transforming from an actual tool into a nuisance, not because they are unreliable, but because they are almost too reliable for no apparent purpose, and after a certain time, you will be the only one left as a victim of its trials, simply look at a number of posts with people desperate for an easy solution when they loose their only key, or when this new system start glitching out in every way possible.
If none of this was too convincing and you are still concerned, the only proper way of going about it would be to set up an actual, proper anti-theft system, and while it is a pretty vast topic, I will try to keep it brief. Starting off with the door locks, there is very little chance you will be able to stop anyone from getting inside your car, from stealing your key to simply busting a window open, there isn't much you can do to avoid it, but what you can do is ensure that the engine won't start with the use of additional Immobilizer system, but that’s a topic for another day, for now all you need to remember is that in this case, you don't have to be the best, you only need to beat your neighbor.
Hope this help and best of luck!
The following users liked this post:
Lexanna (01-26-24)
01-22-24, 01:56 PM
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thanks for clearing up my concerns
Lol, although dear to me, neither the low milisge, 46K, ES300 or 2010 Toyota Matrix is very desirable so i wont worry about all the key fob related theft going on, lol, thanks for gently giving me some clarity, lol My other cars are 2000 Daewoo Nubiras(2) and a 73 MG Midget so I guess thats why the Lexus and Toyota are so desr to my heart, lol
01-22-24, 06:55 PM
#4
Pole Position
01-24-24, 09:01 PM
#5
Let's go from the very beginning, and try to work out a probability of anyone needing to go through a considerable trouble to get any of your cars that, let's be honest, are past their prime time by now, and are barely more than $5,000 each, when for the same effort spent, you can get a car that's worth 10x of what you have.
there isn't much you can do to avoid it, but what you can do is ensure that the engine won't start with the use of additional Immobilizer system, but that’s a topic for another day, for now all you need to remember is that in this case, you don't have to be the best, you only need to beat your neighbor.
01-25-24, 08:03 PM
#6
Pole Position
Well that's a bummer..
What method did they use to get a hold of the car, did they just brute force turned all the locks? Gotta wonder what was the reason behind messing with the battery, especially considering that you need to open the car to do it, I may be missing something though. The damage doesn't seem to extensive, while quite tragic, seems to be repairable, what came out of that car if it's not a secret?
If you still have a 2nd-gen ES, the whole Starter wire thing discussed before could come in handy, as you may break into that wire to implement your own simple Immobilizer system. While it won't be a true bulletproof solution, as you can still go under the hood and just jam a screwdriver between B+ terminal and the Bendix Solenoid, at least it will be more involved than simply twisting the locks, and doing it like that makes the whole system fully reversible if needed, there won't be any need to cut a single wire.
Other ways to do it, if you don't mind a more involved solution, might be to short one of the sensors, like a Crankshaft Position Sensor, aka the only sensor that the car will never work without, making it a lot harder to troubleshoot, even to some specialized shops, let alone in the field, though it will require altering the wiring, and finding the position for the aftermarket Immobilizer system and its Relay.
To make it easier to start the car, without having to go under the hood each time, they do sell RFID modules with their corresponding tags (essentially what you have in other cars with actual Immobilizers) that you can implement in yours, should be relatively straightforward, especially if it comes as a kit with the rest of the Immobilizer system, they may even have the ones that go around the Ignition Key, glue the Tag to your key and no one's the wiser that your car never had immobilizer from the factory.
Yet again, you don't have to be the best, just faster than your neighbor.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
What method did they use to get a hold of the car, did they just brute force turned all the locks? Gotta wonder what was the reason behind messing with the battery, especially considering that you need to open the car to do it, I may be missing something though. The damage doesn't seem to extensive, while quite tragic, seems to be repairable, what came out of that car if it's not a secret?
If you still have a 2nd-gen ES, the whole Starter wire thing discussed before could come in handy, as you may break into that wire to implement your own simple Immobilizer system. While it won't be a true bulletproof solution, as you can still go under the hood and just jam a screwdriver between B+ terminal and the Bendix Solenoid, at least it will be more involved than simply twisting the locks, and doing it like that makes the whole system fully reversible if needed, there won't be any need to cut a single wire.
Other ways to do it, if you don't mind a more involved solution, might be to short one of the sensors, like a Crankshaft Position Sensor, aka the only sensor that the car will never work without, making it a lot harder to troubleshoot, even to some specialized shops, let alone in the field, though it will require altering the wiring, and finding the position for the aftermarket Immobilizer system and its Relay.
To make it easier to start the car, without having to go under the hood each time, they do sell RFID modules with their corresponding tags (essentially what you have in other cars with actual Immobilizers) that you can implement in yours, should be relatively straightforward, especially if it comes as a kit with the rest of the Immobilizer system, they may even have the ones that go around the Ignition Key, glue the Tag to your key and no one's the wiser that your car never had immobilizer from the factory.
Yet again, you don't have to be the best, just faster than your neighbor.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
The following users liked this post:
Lexanna (01-26-24)
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