Hey all-

I'm in the market for a CT. The more research I do about the cars, I keep seeing recommendations to stay 2015 or newer. If I find an older model, can it still be as reliable as the +15? Things to look for when checking them out?

Thanks!

 

The changes were minor .... we had all of our Gen 3 Prius go over 200k. Same motor.

Clean the EGR system. lube the brake hardware when doing a rotation

 

Thanks for response. Just getting a bit of cold feet reading about EGR and head gasket issues

 

The entire generation looks so similar, I dont think you can go wrong as long as you find a well maintained vehicle. I asked a friend of mine that is mechanic before purchasing mine and he basically says these vehicles will run forever with very little cost or effort.

 

There are always going to be "something" with any vehicle ........... A car with a failing head gasket at 175k. How many cars make 175k?

Was the coolant changed ... did they take note of any other issue?

I'm always amazed at the amount of people who never do any maintenance .. or will not spend $10 bucks more for the correct coolant. Want to save $20 bucks on the spark plugs.

Our Prius have been far and away the best fleet cars we have ever owned -- and the couple of CT's are following the pack.

They seem to be a little harder on tires ..... but they came with Michelin. Our touring level Prius came with Bridgestone. I replace everything with Continentals anyway for past 8 years. I hate Michelin tires ... don't like them in rain or snow.

 

2014/2015 (that was me btw who is saying stay 2015 or newer if possible) aren't that minor.

Unless you consider revised pistons and piston rings minor..

 

I bought a certified used 2013 from the dealer with 19,000 on it and drove it to 108,000. I had regular service done at the dealer, mainly oil changes, and the car was truly perfect. Aside from a battery replacement around 100,000, not one thing ever went wrong with it. There were some things I liked better on the '13 than the later models, like the front grill and the display that could be closed rather than fixed open position of later models. Also it had every conceivable option, including leather seats. I loved it.

 

Yeah most can go to 100k. it's the ones that 150k and above (like the early 3rd gen Priuses) is when the older design starts to show its weakness.

 

There are reports of some models having excessive oil consumption -- there is a TSB regarding the Pistons and Rings. it's a bit confusing because the piston change came later and the same rings are used. Anyway -- evidently it has to do with carbon build up. Have even read that BG has a system to clean .... sounds like snake oil. So -- it being soot .... I guess it's the EGR cycle doing it.

Toyota made lots of these vehicles -- a few have the problem. I read all over that the front hubs go .. expensive. We have never had one ...15 vehicles and untold miles. Everything being equal -- you get the lowest mile newest vehicle. Most time the older lower mile car is the better deal.

Every car model has a sweat spot. Recently bought a MB E Class Station Wagon ... we always have a MB wagon in the family fleet . 2014 was a refresh year .. and the oldest year you can get CPO. I found a perfect 14 sport w/ 31k -- MB CPO for one year. 28k + tax. If I moved to a 15 it would have been 10 k more ..even with 50k. Buying a 13 would have cost about the same 26k .. and not CPO. With lux cars it's that almost 6 year old spot. The wagon's sticker was 76k . We only drive it about 6-7 k a year .... so I want to find a garaged example w/ low miles.

It's the same with the CT ... If I was searching for a commuter car that was going to be driven at lot -- finding an early example with low miles is the way to go. It's all about the miles .. = value when they get old. Options and low miles often don't add all that much to cost when they get old. The pool of people wanting a 6 year old car is much smaller.

 

Front hub/bearing assembly is baby stuff to change on this car. 4 bolts. and one assembly lol

Try changing the rear wheel bearing on a BMW... $1,200 a side (labor only) if you go to a mechanic, or roughly 12 hours labor (per side) if you know what you are doing. they are precision/press/friction fit so there's little bolting and a whole lot of cursing. and literally a good chance you'll get seriously injured if you let the tool/puller fly with thousands of pounds of pressure loaded on it.. very dangerous job too!

 

I mention the hubs because -- have seen them referenced regarding high miles cars. Dealers get around $600.

Oh I get crazy repairs .... my older MB wagon just had $1200 spent on the suspension hydraulic lines.