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maintenance also isn't particularly terrible, well, that is if you consider an E500 to be within reason lol... the only big 'AMG' cost is the extra fuel and the brakes but luckily those can last a looooong time under normal driving conditions... same concept as a big under-stressed V8! fit the car with gigantic cross-drilled rotors and 8 piston brembo calipers designed to stop 2+ tons from 190+ mph and they'll last for years and years when being driven like the grandpa sedan it is underneath lol
Good point about over-engineered brakes as well, never really thought of that. LS430 doesn't have AMG brakes but they are huge and meant for high speeds too (though not AMG extreme), similar to any other flagship sedan of the time's high end brakes. I did a brake job, everything all rotors pads and that was 6-7 years ago and I don't even need the rotors turned yet... haha. These people who rice out the LS430s always need spacers when they swap rims bc the calipers are humongous.
SL is close to needing brakes, for both axles pads my indy only wants $500!!!!! For OEM brakes!
Considering this is a $160,000 car in today's money that's almost insane.
And you work on your car so that saves you money as well. I can't do shyyyyt. Anything. I know a lot about cars but can't do anything lol.
Good point about over-engineered brakes as well, never really thought of that. LS430 doesn't have AMG brakes but they are huge and meant for high speeds too (though not AMG extreme), similar to any other flagship sedan of the time's high end brakes. I did a brake job, everything all rotors pads and that was 6-7 years ago and I don't even need the rotors turned yet... haha. These people who rice out the LS430s always need spacers when they swap rims bc the calipers are humongous.
SL is close to needing brakes, for both axles pads my indy only wants $500!!!!! For OEM brakes!
Considering this is a $160,000 car in today's money that's almost insane.
And you work on your car so that saves you money as well. I can't do shyyyyt. Anything. I know a lot about cars but can't do anything lol.
Thats a ripoff for pads only IMO. I would suggest Pagid or Ferodo pads over OE spec if you have ability to pick, that or the new TRW low dust pads if you never drive hard enough to glow the rotors.
I also would suggest to always change the rotors unless you are putting the exact same pads on, at least resurface them so the new pads can material transfer correctly to the disk.
Thats a ripoff for pads only IMO. I would suggest Pagid or Ferodo pads over OE spec if you have ability to pick, that or the new TRW low dust pads if you never drive hard enough to glow the rotors.
I also would suggest to always change the rotors unless you are putting the exact same pads on, at least resurface them so the new pads can material transfer correctly to the disk.
you prompted me to further educate myself on the spelling of disc vs disk lol
how would those TRW pads compare to akebonos? i've used the latter on my LS for like a decade now and i think they work very well, they work very well once there's some heat in them but even cold there's plenty of stopping force
also yes just for pads that seems unnecessarily steep
you prompted me to further educate myself on the spelling of disc vs disk lol
how would those TRW pads compare to akebonos? i've used the latter on my LS for like a decade now and i think they work very well, they work very well once there's some heat in them but even cold there's plenty of stopping force
also yes just for pads that seems unnecessarily steep
Well now you made me feel like a dumbass lol! I've been using the wrong "disc" the whole time....
I like them and have been using them on my cheaper cars and my friends/families daily drivers, they do not dust and don't need to have nearly any heat in them past just leaving your subdivision to perform perfectly. I have no idea how they do when really pushed hard though.
I use powerstop on most of our cars and the high end/very fast cars use OE rotors (usually Zimmerman) and Ferodo metallic pads. Dusts like crazy with the Ferodos but you can't fade them if used in conjunction with DOT5.1 fluid when with 10 120-20 stops or the equivalent. The power stops are around 60-80% of the performance but since they are ceramic instead of metallic they sometimes have heat soak issues.
It's cheaper than a pad job on either of my Lexuses at the dealer, that's what shocked me. $500 for brakes all around for a $160,000 car inflation adjusted ain't bad.
Glad to know the Benz brakes easy to do, though.
I can't do anything DIY wise, I'm that bad. I wish I could, trust me. I suck at even checking my oil, it's that bad.
I have greased my antenna a few times with all purpose grease lol. The antenna motor is insane, unlike any power antenna I've ever experienced. Robust doesn't even begin to describe it. It tries to tug it down once more after it's already down and the car is off.
It's cheaper than a pad job on either of my Lexuses at the dealer, that's what shocked me. $500 for brakes all around for a $160,000 car inflation adjusted ain't bad.
I guess that's better if they are doing the fronts and back at that price.
I hate to see the bill if they get in there and you get a call that you need rotors too. Lol
Rotors are fine! It’s on its second set (64k miles). My friend said don’t do pads unless you do rotors too but that’s not necessary.
If there is no pulsating of the brake pedal from warped or out-of round rotors, and if there is enough metal-thickness remaining in them (per service-specs), there should be no need for rotor-refinishing or replacement.
If there is no pulsating of the brake pedal from warped or out-of round rotors, and if there is enough metal-thickness remaining in them (per service-specs), there should be no need for rotor-refinishing or replacement.
Right, none of that. I don't even really need pads yet, but I will sooner rather than later.
Like I said, it only had 58k when I bought it and was already on its second set of rotors.... so pampered.. MB of Chattanooga made a fortune probably selling things the car didn't truly need (at that time at least) to the previous owner. Or the owner knew it was smart to do so.
Can anyone help? A friend of mine is trying to identify this Mercedes engine. It is a diesel. Manual. FT4WD. G wagon in military spec. We believe it’s a replacement engine and definitely not original.
