Suv suggestion
We test drove the Audi Q5 TDI as well, and that was a lot of fun to drive. It definitely felt light and more nimble than the Cayenne; we may have considered it but inventory of TDIs at that time was virtually non-existent and the one we drove wasn't optioned the way we would have wanted it.
theres a $15k cayenne with 85,000 miles and a $14k mazda cx-5 with 65,000 miles local to me. the porsche wont be reliable? then i dont want it.
ive never had a porsche but ive owned nothing but v8s and the maintenance hasnt been too much. can you explain why the porsche will be so much more?
ive never had a porsche but ive owned nothing but v8s and the maintenance hasnt been too much. can you explain why the porsche will be so much more?
Porsche parts and labor rates are usually higher than a lot of other brands which is why that gets brought up. So depending on how much you can DIY, it's something to consider.
Before we bought it, we drove the GX460 and RX350. For an everyday vehicle, the Cayenne is far more engaging to drive. Whether the handling is "worth it" or or depends on how often you'd be able to take advantage of it I suppose. It just felt more solid and responsive - much different driving experience than the RX and GX. FWIW - today, we would not buy the Cayenne now that we have two kids; if we went back in time, we would absolutely buy the Cayenne again over those two.
We test drove the Audi Q5 TDI as well, and that was a lot of fun to drive. It definitely felt light and more nimble than the Cayenne; we may have considered it but inventory of TDIs at that time was virtually non-existent and the one we drove wasn't optioned the way we would have wanted it.
What year is the Cayenne you're looking at? If you end up going that route, make sure you get a PPI done at a dealer or reputable shop and get the service history records (if possible). It's hard to say whether or not it's going to be reliable - a lot of that is going to depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it.
Porsche parts and labor rates are usually higher than a lot of other brands which is why that gets brought up. So depending on how much you can DIY, it's something to consider.
We test drove the Audi Q5 TDI as well, and that was a lot of fun to drive. It definitely felt light and more nimble than the Cayenne; we may have considered it but inventory of TDIs at that time was virtually non-existent and the one we drove wasn't optioned the way we would have wanted it.
What year is the Cayenne you're looking at? If you end up going that route, make sure you get a PPI done at a dealer or reputable shop and get the service history records (if possible). It's hard to say whether or not it's going to be reliable - a lot of that is going to depends on how the previous owner(s) treated it.
Porsche parts and labor rates are usually higher than a lot of other brands which is why that gets brought up. So depending on how much you can DIY, it's something to consider.
You can definitely find parts cheaper online. If you're really interested in the Cayenne, you should check some of those forums to get an idea of what you're getting yourself into based on the particular model you're looking at - if you have not already. Again, if you go that route, don't skip the PPI and get as many service records as possible.
I'm on my fourth MDX and never had any significant issues. I believe they are the best all around value in the category (although the Telluride and Palisade will challenge). Each time I look at several others including Q7, X5, RX, and XC90 but come back to the MDX. While I don't need the third row, I like the cargo capacity. My test is will my golf bag fit across behind the second row. Came back home about 180 miles from a UT football game in the pouring rain one night last November and my buddies commented about how solid and safe the vehicle felt in such conditions. $15k would probably get you in the late end of the 2nd generation, although the newer the better. The third generation started in 2014 with a refresh in 2017.
The RDX would be a consideration as well. One of my best friends is on their 2nd RDX, and the son of another good friend recently bought a RDX. Both are very pleased.
The RDX would be a consideration as well. One of my best friends is on their 2nd RDX, and the son of another good friend recently bought a RDX. Both are very pleased.
People's thresholds of reliability are different, as are perceptions of reliability and potentially big ticket maintenance items that come as a vehicle often nears 100K or so miles. As 92 SC400 pointed out, it's definitely worth it to get a PPI and understand the exact state of the vehicle, better understand any available service/maintenance history and go into it with eyes wide open as to what can or will be needed soon.
The Cayenne was originally a much, much more expensive vehicle with pricier parts than a CX-5.
Some quick finds about Cayennes in that era. Camshaft bolt shearing, transfer cases, coolant leaks. But then there are owners that also have minimal to no issues with good preventive maintenance. Just saying there's a wider spread of potential cost levels on originally pricey German vehicles.
The Cayenne was originally a much, much more expensive vehicle with pricier parts than a CX-5.
Some quick finds about Cayennes in that era. Camshaft bolt shearing, transfer cases, coolant leaks. But then there are owners that also have minimal to no issues with good preventive maintenance. Just saying there's a wider spread of potential cost levels on originally pricey German vehicles.
Last year I rented a CX-5 for a week and it was a totally enjoyable vehicle to drive. I don't know why a car that nice has a prop rod for the hood, though. The one I drove seemed to have adaptive LED because the lights turned with the wheel.
Best safe bet is likely the Highlander. Seems really pricey but probably going to be a long boring ownership where if you love things to break and go wrong it won't be happening!
Best safe bet is likely the Highlander. Seems really pricey but probably going to be a long boring ownership where if you love things to break and go wrong it won't be happening!
Last year I rented a CX-5 for a week and it was a totally enjoyable vehicle to drive. I don't know why a car that nice has a prop rod for the hood, though. The one I drove seemed to have adaptive LED because the lights turned with the wheel.
Best safe bet is likely the Highlander. Seems really pricey but probably going to be a long boring ownership where if you love things to break and go wrong it won't be happening!
Best safe bet is likely the Highlander. Seems really pricey but probably going to be a long boring ownership where if you love things to break and go wrong it won't be happening!

To the OP...if your criteria is fast, good handling and reliable for $15k, you should look at the 2012 Infiniti EX35. Its the CUV version of the G35 and those were mechanically very sound and common so lots of mechanics know how to work with them. It'll outrun most of the CUV competition and handles great because its based on a RWD platform (comes in RWD and AWD). You can also look at the Infiniti FX too and those were very fast with the V8.
To the OP...if your criteria is fast, good handling and reliable for $15k, you should look at the 2012 Infiniti EX35. Its the CUV version of the G35 and those were mechanically very sound and common so lots of mechanics know how to work with them. It'll outrun most of the CUV competition and handles great because its based on a RWD platform (comes in RWD and AWD). You can also look at the Infiniti FX too and those were very fast with the V8.
A $15k CX-5 is likely a 2016.5 or older. The best thing about them is how fun they are to drive. They're cars that really like to be pushed. Keep in mind that while the 1st generation offered adequate power that was comparable to most of the competition at the time, it would now be considered "slow" (7.8s 0-60mph). It's also a less-refined car in that the cabin can be noisy due to a lack of sound isolation materials. The good thing is that the 2.5L Skyactiv-G engine and transmission in those cars is very, very reliable. The faster CX-5 GT Reserve or Signature was first released in 2019 and has a 0-60 of around 6.4s, but being newer, it's also more expensive. I'm a mod on a Mazda forum and generally, the 2013-2016.5 is easy to work on. Majority of work has been regular maintenance (brakes, spark plugs, oil and filter changes). Common complaints are cabin noise, LED DRLs burning out (there is a recall for this), and a lack of HP. There is also an EPB recall that involves dragging rear brakes, but by now all CX-5s should have had this recall done.
Last edited by sm1ke; Mar 31, 2020 at 07:51 AM.
i think i would be fine going with something smaller than the rx. i would rather have a car but i enjoy the space of the suv for camping and other things.
the rdx is faster than the rx and cx-5 so if it handles similarly to the cx-5 thats looking like a good choice.
what kind of maintenance for the porsche? oil changes or something else? i think a porsche would be nice so im driving something different than everyone else plus i would assume its a lot better drive than the rdx
your post was very helpful
so porsche is reliable?
the rdx is faster than the rx and cx-5 so if it handles similarly to the cx-5 thats looking like a good choice.
what kind of maintenance for the porsche? oil changes or something else? i think a porsche would be nice so im driving something different than everyone else plus i would assume its a lot better drive than the rdx
your post was very helpful
so porsche is reliable?
MDX's are larger, sportier and quicker then a RX but generally more expensive. You get the option on every one of folding the 3rd row down for extra space and still having 2 passengers.
Porsche 911's are generally reliable, Porsche SUV's are not as reliable, in some earlier cases Cayanne's were known to be very problematic. If your budget is only 15K, I would steer well clear of Cayannes that are 15K, not very reliable and very expensive Porsche repair/maintenance bills.
I was not impressed with the RX when I drove it, I was surprised at how small the trunk area was with rear seats up.
Do you really need a CUV? A GS350 handles very well, is very reliable, good luxury, used can be had for great prices, it has a huge trunk, only real way you get the extra storage in a RX is if you have no passengers and fold the rear seats down.
15K is not really going to get you any of the newer models, will have to go a generation back.
Last edited by UDel; Mar 31, 2020 at 08:40 AM.
You can't have it all, let alone a fun-to-drive, reliable SUV for $15K. In the graphics/printing business, we used to say, "price, quality, speed--pick any two! This applies to all of life. Up your ante or lower your expectations.
I suggest you consider the 4-Runner and RX as I believe quality trumps all else. Check CR to confirm the reliability data before you decide on any make/model. I can tell you that Toyota/Lexus are overall/generally the best quality vehicles.
I suggest you consider the 4-Runner and RX as I believe quality trumps all else. Check CR to confirm the reliability data before you decide on any make/model. I can tell you that Toyota/Lexus are overall/generally the best quality vehicles.
I bought my '13RX350 last July, used. I compared it to a 2015 RDX, so perhaps my insights can help. My prior Toyota, which I just sold a couple of months ago, was a modified 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo. This is a true sports car. Handles better than 98% of other cars, out-brakes 99.9% of cars, and out accelerates about 90% of today's cars. (I wasn't pushing huge power through my 3S).
When I went SUV shopping, I was very torn between the prior gen RDX and RX as I mentioned above. I drove them both. The RDX was SLIGHTLY quicker accelerating and SLIGHTLy better handling, but it was NO sports car.
The RX is roomier, taller, can tow 3000 lbs (mine has the tow pkg), and I DO plan on towing. RDX is limited to 1500 lbs. Its a lighter chassis. I also do not believe the RDX is more reliable than the RX, which was a very important consideration for me. I also wanted high safety in a crash. Both cars are rated very high by NHSTA, and IIHS. The RX has a roof crush strength of 18,600 lbs (over 9 tons - and RDX is higher at 20,800 so RDX wins here) https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle...#roof-strength
A small (but I think important) design element: The RDX rear hatch and bumper are pretty close to being the same. https://images.app.goo.gl/XdgDRzC3dCi1Csz46 In a minor rear-end bump, you will end up being forced to replace the hatch. This is one of the same complaints as the Tesla X and Y. https://insideevs.com/features/40668...law-hatchback/
The 3RX has a bumper that protrudes.
In the end I decided that if I wanted a sporty fast car, I should just keep my MR2 (which I did not). I was looking for an SUV, specifically, a CUV, as I wasn't looking for an off-roader either. I just wanted something I could rely on, that drove nice (easy to drive, park, etc.), was quiet inside (relaxing) and could carry my 2 big dogs. I was tired of the noise and rough ride of my MR2, though that car is a helluva lot of fun.
My advice is this: Buy the RX for its reliability as a daily driver, and ability to haul people or dogs and stuff, and buy a sports car for the fun factor. You can get a 10 yr old Miata pretty cheap. When/if the sports car is down, you still have your daily driver to get to work (that is, if you are not confined at home thanks to COVID19).
When I went SUV shopping, I was very torn between the prior gen RDX and RX as I mentioned above. I drove them both. The RDX was SLIGHTLY quicker accelerating and SLIGHTLy better handling, but it was NO sports car.
The RX is roomier, taller, can tow 3000 lbs (mine has the tow pkg), and I DO plan on towing. RDX is limited to 1500 lbs. Its a lighter chassis. I also do not believe the RDX is more reliable than the RX, which was a very important consideration for me. I also wanted high safety in a crash. Both cars are rated very high by NHSTA, and IIHS. The RX has a roof crush strength of 18,600 lbs (over 9 tons - and RDX is higher at 20,800 so RDX wins here) https://www.iihs.org/ratings/vehicle...#roof-strength
A small (but I think important) design element: The RDX rear hatch and bumper are pretty close to being the same. https://images.app.goo.gl/XdgDRzC3dCi1Csz46 In a minor rear-end bump, you will end up being forced to replace the hatch. This is one of the same complaints as the Tesla X and Y. https://insideevs.com/features/40668...law-hatchback/
The 3RX has a bumper that protrudes.
In the end I decided that if I wanted a sporty fast car, I should just keep my MR2 (which I did not). I was looking for an SUV, specifically, a CUV, as I wasn't looking for an off-roader either. I just wanted something I could rely on, that drove nice (easy to drive, park, etc.), was quiet inside (relaxing) and could carry my 2 big dogs. I was tired of the noise and rough ride of my MR2, though that car is a helluva lot of fun.
My advice is this: Buy the RX for its reliability as a daily driver, and ability to haul people or dogs and stuff, and buy a sports car for the fun factor. You can get a 10 yr old Miata pretty cheap. When/if the sports car is down, you still have your daily driver to get to work (that is, if you are not confined at home thanks to COVID19).
Last edited by AlgoTrader; Apr 1, 2020 at 05:10 PM.
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