Feedback on Porsche Cayman wanted
Well my search for a clean NSX is not going well, as most are too $$ or have too high of miles on them. All the other newer cars for sale now has no appeal to me either due to lack of power or handling, so on the advice of my a few friends, am going to start looking at Caymans. Anyone own one? What are good years to look at and/or avoid? How are they reliability, maintenance, and ownership wise? Any quirks, issues, gotchas, or whatnots? TIA!
love the Cayman....I was very close to buying but got the A5 instead (wife's car).
found this http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-b...-cayman-s.html
this was in there too....
another thread http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-sale...-cayman-s.html
found this http://www.planet-9.com/987-cayman-b...-cayman-s.html
Having been to the Cayman Tech session which PCA / Cayman Registry / Porsche of Arlington put on yesterday in Virginia, a couple things came up:
(1) Have an inspection done on all potential leaks, including anything from the back of the engine (Rear Main Seal is a potential failure area with Gen 1 engines - the head mechanic indicated a key cause is starting the car from cold and regularly revving to the redline, like one might do at the track, which causes three different metals in the engine to expand at different rates). RMS damage, while it is stressed by the dealer to be extremely rare, is expensive enough to repair that Porsche will issue a new engine rather than have the dealer take apart and repair the old one. If the car was a track toy, there is naturally a greater risk than if it was a daily driver or a garage queen.
(2) Check the rubber O-rings and piping for the air conditioning system. If the air is not turned on regularly (even during winter), the piping may go through expansion/contraction, and the rubber O-ring (gasket-like fittings) and tubes could crack and freon leaks out. My O-rings at the firewall were replaced 7 months after buying the car (under warranty), but as the air conditioning compressor is in back, the condensor is in front, etc, there's a lot of tubing under the car, cleverly hidden by those innocuous-looking black-plastic panels that give the bottom of the car a flat, dull (but undoubtedly aerodynamic) look that harkens back to the 356. The brake fluid lines and power steering lines hide under those panels as well, with the power steering coolant lines making nifty curly-cues under the driver's seat to cool the liquid in the pipes. Needless to say, look for leaks where you think none might occur given everything is supposedly in back of the car.....
Happy hunting!
(1) Have an inspection done on all potential leaks, including anything from the back of the engine (Rear Main Seal is a potential failure area with Gen 1 engines - the head mechanic indicated a key cause is starting the car from cold and regularly revving to the redline, like one might do at the track, which causes three different metals in the engine to expand at different rates). RMS damage, while it is stressed by the dealer to be extremely rare, is expensive enough to repair that Porsche will issue a new engine rather than have the dealer take apart and repair the old one. If the car was a track toy, there is naturally a greater risk than if it was a daily driver or a garage queen.
(2) Check the rubber O-rings and piping for the air conditioning system. If the air is not turned on regularly (even during winter), the piping may go through expansion/contraction, and the rubber O-ring (gasket-like fittings) and tubes could crack and freon leaks out. My O-rings at the firewall were replaced 7 months after buying the car (under warranty), but as the air conditioning compressor is in back, the condensor is in front, etc, there's a lot of tubing under the car, cleverly hidden by those innocuous-looking black-plastic panels that give the bottom of the car a flat, dull (but undoubtedly aerodynamic) look that harkens back to the 356. The brake fluid lines and power steering lines hide under those panels as well, with the power steering coolant lines making nifty curly-cues under the driver's seat to cool the liquid in the pipes. Needless to say, look for leaks where you think none might occur given everything is supposedly in back of the car.....
Happy hunting!
this was in there too....
My thoughts are these....I had a 2007 CS, 18" wheels with stock suspension, it was red with tan interior...I ended up trading that for a 2009 base Cayman with what for me were nice options: the prime reasons for the change...given that I use it daily and don't track it
std suspension seemed hard for driving around town...on less than perfect roads...getting the adjustible/hyrdo suspension would cure that; I never really got over how "cheapie" the interior felt; and for business there was no simple, clean way to install BT/ipod...so it integrated nicely with hands off use; I also am very leary of keeping a GEN 1 car for long time....due to RMS and intermediate shaft concerns, while some don't worry nearly every 2005-07 Porsche I looked at...the sales guy proudly noted that the RMS was fixed...also if you were to get a GEN 1 I would strongly advocate geting one with the Porsche extended factory warranty...I certainly got my money's worth...clutch cable, thrust bearing, new key setup
the GEN/2 base model is nearly as fast as the GEN/1 CS model...neither model has alot of torque below 4000rpm...and I am not into traffic light racing or tracking...GEN/2 has new block which hopefully cures some lingering issues with the prior engine, it seems to ride much better, the car seems to have a nicer grade of interior materials and better overall fit and finish...the GEN/2 is faster...and with the hydro suspension should ride much better....though I am a little leary of the new DFI systems which seem to have some issues...as VW and Audi have had
Another thought I would offer is about garage queens...while body and paint wise they should be perfect...I have always had a better experience with cars that are driven on a regular basis...and if you get a GEN/1 I would suggested getting one with the extended PNA warranty....they go through the cars when they certifiy them and personally I am not enthused about paying for repairs on these cars....just my thoughts...
std suspension seemed hard for driving around town...on less than perfect roads...getting the adjustible/hyrdo suspension would cure that; I never really got over how "cheapie" the interior felt; and for business there was no simple, clean way to install BT/ipod...so it integrated nicely with hands off use; I also am very leary of keeping a GEN 1 car for long time....due to RMS and intermediate shaft concerns, while some don't worry nearly every 2005-07 Porsche I looked at...the sales guy proudly noted that the RMS was fixed...also if you were to get a GEN 1 I would strongly advocate geting one with the Porsche extended factory warranty...I certainly got my money's worth...clutch cable, thrust bearing, new key setup
the GEN/2 base model is nearly as fast as the GEN/1 CS model...neither model has alot of torque below 4000rpm...and I am not into traffic light racing or tracking...GEN/2 has new block which hopefully cures some lingering issues with the prior engine, it seems to ride much better, the car seems to have a nicer grade of interior materials and better overall fit and finish...the GEN/2 is faster...and with the hydro suspension should ride much better....though I am a little leary of the new DFI systems which seem to have some issues...as VW and Audi have had
Another thought I would offer is about garage queens...while body and paint wise they should be perfect...I have always had a better experience with cars that are driven on a regular basis...and if you get a GEN/1 I would suggested getting one with the extended PNA warranty....they go through the cars when they certifiy them and personally I am not enthused about paying for repairs on these cars....just my thoughts...
another thread http://www.planet-9.com/porsche-sale...-cayman-s.html
Last edited by bagwell; Feb 25, 2013 at 02:37 PM.
Well my search for a clean NSX is not going well, as most are too $$ or have too high of miles on them. All the other newer cars for sale now has no appeal to me either due to lack of power or handling, so on the advice of my a few friends, am going to start looking at Caymans. Anyone own one? What are good years to look at and/or avoid? How are they reliability, maintenance, and ownership wise? Any quirks, issues, gotchas, or whatnots? TIA!
The Cayman loves twisty roads.
The Gen I 987 Cayman (2006 - 2008) are usually less expensive but have a (possibly) less reliable engine, especially if you plan to go on the track. Also, I would not be interested in the Tiptronic auto transmission from those years and would get one with a manual.
The Gen II 987 Cayman (2009 - 2012) have a redesigned engine and the then new PDK optional double-clutch auto shifting manual transmission to replace the Tiptronic auto transmission. I limited my shopping to the Gen II and could have gone for either PDK or manual.
The 981 Cayman (2013 - ) is just arriving on the scene (about a year behind the 981 Boxster) with a redesigned chassis and all new appearance. Much buzz about that.
Well my search for a clean NSX is not going well, as most are too $$ or have too high of miles on them. All the other newer cars for sale now has no appeal to me either due to lack of power or handling, so on the advice of my a few friends, am going to start looking at Caymans. Anyone own one? What are good years to look at and/or avoid? How are they reliability, maintenance, and ownership wise? Any quirks, issues, gotchas, or whatnots? TIA!
I rebuild engines for these cars & I'm looking for a 2006-2008 Cayman "S" with a engine in need of rebuild.
In reading through P9 posts and also PCA's Cayman Register forums, I don't see a lot of guys dumping their 987s for 981s. I have no such plans and I was fully aware of the 981 when I bought my 987. I prefer the looks of the older 987s, the drive trains have not changed much (5 more HP on the S), and people are put off by the electronic steering on the new 981. Though the lighter stiffer chassis is appealing. Also, Porsche stopped making 987s a several months ago, so new 987s are scarce.
BTW, I think the new 981 Boxster is much nicer looking than the older 987 Boxster. I've seen others with that same opinion. Porsche may have developed the new styling around the Boxster and then applied it to the Cayman with less good results.
Thanks for the info Terry, Bypro, and Bagwell. I presently have a Sequential Manual Transmission (Hydraulically actually clutch) so would prefer the PDK setup (i'm not purist :X). Any issues with these in the 08+ models (987)? How about problems with the S models?
Trending Topics
S models are faster. Otherwise, no specific issues.
I would also advise an independent pre-purchase inspection (PPI) for any used car, but especially a pre-2009 987 Cayman or Boxster. This will reveal accident damage, they can check the computer for any history of over revs and also give you estimates on what needs to be fixed to help you negotiate a price.
And read the forums to learn about all the options since there are a ton of options so you can decide what you want.
Caymanregister is another good forum, but requires PCA membership.
I have a 2008. No PDK until 2009. Reliability has been acceptable for a premium sports car. Original brakes lasted until 45k mi and cost $2500 to replace at the dealer (pads and discs are their policy).
A steering leak developed on the rack a few months after warranty expired, but I lucked out and got covered. $3500 would have been a major turn-off.
Annual services range from $250 to $600 if nothing major. A timing belt or a spark plug service would bring that close to $1000.
Tires are about $1200 at Costco. Rears last 20+k mi with no track use, but the fronts seem to last forever. I drive moderately hard to make sure the powertrain gets regular exercise.
I had numerous warranty fixes: seat belt retractor, headliner rattles, broken cup holder, rear hatch/brake lamp rattle, worn inside door latch sensor
The car also eats light bulbs, esp driving and brake lamps.
IMS is practically a non-issue post 2006, but it's said to be wise to properly run up the revs regularly as I do. The internets really blow things up.
A steering leak developed on the rack a few months after warranty expired, but I lucked out and got covered. $3500 would have been a major turn-off.
Annual services range from $250 to $600 if nothing major. A timing belt or a spark plug service would bring that close to $1000.
Tires are about $1200 at Costco. Rears last 20+k mi with no track use, but the fronts seem to last forever. I drive moderately hard to make sure the powertrain gets regular exercise.
I had numerous warranty fixes: seat belt retractor, headliner rattles, broken cup holder, rear hatch/brake lamp rattle, worn inside door latch sensor
The car also eats light bulbs, esp driving and brake lamps.
IMS is practically a non-issue post 2006, but it's said to be wise to properly run up the revs regularly as I do. The internets really blow things up.
Well my search for a clean NSX is not going well, as most are too $$ or have too high of miles on them. All the other newer cars for sale now has no appeal to me either due to lack of power or handling, so on the advice of my a few friends, am going to start looking at Caymans. Anyone own one? What are good years to look at and/or avoid? How are they reliability, maintenance, and ownership wise? Any quirks, issues, gotchas, or what nots? TIA!
I have a 2008. No PDK until 2009. Reliability has been acceptable for a premium sports car. Original brakes lasted until 45k mi and cost $2500 to replace at the dealer (pads and discs are their policy).
A steering leak developed on the rack a few months after warranty expired, but I lucked out and got covered. $3500 would have been a major turn-off.
Annual services range from $250 to $600 if nothing major. A timing belt or a spark plug service would bring that close to $1000.
Tires are about $1200 at Costco. Rears last 20+k mi with no track use, but the fronts seem to last forever. I drive moderately hard to make sure the powertrain gets regular exercise.
I had numerous warranty fixes: seat belt retractor, headliner rattles, broken cup holder, rear hatch/brake lamp rattle, worn inside door latch sensor
.
A steering leak developed on the rack a few months after warranty expired, but I lucked out and got covered. $3500 would have been a major turn-off.
Annual services range from $250 to $600 if nothing major. A timing belt or a spark plug service would bring that close to $1000.
Tires are about $1200 at Costco. Rears last 20+k mi with no track use, but the fronts seem to last forever. I drive moderately hard to make sure the powertrain gets regular exercise.
I had numerous warranty fixes: seat belt retractor, headliner rattles, broken cup holder, rear hatch/brake lamp rattle, worn inside door latch sensor
.
Hey guys,
If this is too far off topic please let me know and I'll repost elshewhere.
How do you guys feel the reliability of a 996 911 (2003-2004) compares to the 987 era Boxsters? I ask becuase our 2007 Boxster has the small leak off the motor and the local Porsche dealer told us its fairly common. We are contemplating upgrading to an older 911 and large repair costs are a concern.
Thanks,
Brandon
If this is too far off topic please let me know and I'll repost elshewhere.
How do you guys feel the reliability of a 996 911 (2003-2004) compares to the 987 era Boxsters? I ask becuase our 2007 Boxster has the small leak off the motor and the local Porsche dealer told us its fairly common. We are contemplating upgrading to an older 911 and large repair costs are a concern.
Thanks,
Brandon
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bwilsongs
LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017)
23
Aug 4, 2017 09:43 AM











