I have an attached two car garage but I added a second one for my lift and workshop. I think the door is 10 foot high [maybe higher]. The garage is done and the drive way is in but I didn't get around to taking a picture of it all finished. I drove up to inspect it for shipping dammage before hireing the tow truck to pick it up. It will be delivered Tue or Wed.

PS it opens up like a standard door, I think I know the reason for your question. The one in NY would hit the car if I opened the door with the lift in the full up position. So I had to dissconnect the opener to prevent hitting the open button by accident but this garage shouldn't be a problem.

 

http://www.mohawklifts.com/consumer/a7.php

This is going in shortly. The wife said she doesn't want me working under stands anymore.

I have a three car, and it's going in the middle bay. Ceiling is 11' 2", so I'll be fine for what I need. If I could just get 3 phase power, everything would be perfect.

 

I think ASYMMETRIC LIFT may make working under the car easier but I ordered my 4 post with a jack bridge so I can get4 wheels off the lift. I got injured back in 1990 so even with the lift I just can't do the stuff I was able to do before I got hurt. And even though I have a 4 car garage I want the added space I get by stacking cars. If you get the two post make sure it is professionally installed and the concrete can handle the stress. I like four posts holding my car up rather than two because I feel it is less likley to fail. I forgot how high the ceileng is but my guess is 14 feet but I have seen them installed with a ceiling as low as 8 feet.

What is the reason you desire to have three phase? Most welders and equiptment will run on 220. My lift is 110 volts.

 

Single phase 10hp compressors are expensive. 3 phase is way cheaper. Keeping a die grinder happy takes a lot of air - I've even had cycling issues with 7 hp compressors.

I know all about the back thing. I hurt mine in '91 and its never been the same. Used to squat 300+, now I can't even squat the bar empty.

 

All I need is enough air to feed an impact wrench and stuff with low air consumption, A grinder and paint gun are the worst because you run them steady but most other air tool aren't run continuously.

I had my back done in 1993, it was T-9, T-10. They go in the front and cut a rib out and collapse a lung to get to the back, they use the rib to fuse to the spine. It helped a lot but I can't lift things like I once was able to do. Sometimes it takes a few days to do what I did in a few hours because I have to stop and rest a lot Usually I can get things done but it takes a lot longer and I have to figure out how to do it with jacks, pulleys and hoists. I have a portable hoist to help me put the lift together.



I got it at Max tools






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my cars too low for a ramp...gotta use a jack and stands

 

I got my lift delivered this morning, it cost $150 for a flat bed roll off wrecker to drive 25 miles to pick it up and dump it in my drive way



I plan on taking pictures and do a step by step set of pictures to show how it goes together

PS I just did a real height measurement. The height from the floor to the lowest part of the door in the open position gives me 11'6", floor to ceiling is about 12' or a little more.

I should be able to open the door without hitting the top car when the lift is in the full up position

 

Most safety experts frown on jacks or jack stands. If you are going to crawl under the car, it is much safer to use ramps. The average store-bought set of ramps is rated up to 5000 lbs.

be careful, though, with some low-slung cars with front air dams. The dams often contact the ramp and get damaged or warped before the tire does and start to lift. The best way around that is to put some thick boards in back of the ramp so the car is partially elevated before it hits the ramp itself.....another reason why I like higher-stance cars for those doing their own work.