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Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 2
From: BC
Anyone here have a tuned car? I just got a new SC with full exhaust and BFI, and it needs a supporting tune. I'm new to tuning the ECU and am quite confused with the information on the internet. Wouldnt mind meeting up with a coupla guys to see what their setup is like..
..I know, woulda been good to get out to the RevScene spring meet this past weekend, but I was outta town
..I know, woulda been good to get out to the RevScene spring meet this past weekend, but I was outta town
Hacked CL to become a Mod
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,713
Likes: 9
From: Vancouver >> Hong Kong
What kind of tuning are you looking for? when I cut out the airbox and did the exhaust, i didn't do any ECU tuning at all. But then again, I never did manage to pass AirCare.
Pole Position
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 2
From: BC
I've been told Apexi SFAC is the way to go, but I've been quoted $2500-4000 to do it. So I want to know a little bit more about how tuning works before I fork over that amount of money..
I'm just confused with the difference between standalones and piggybacks, map and afr tuning, and what different components are needed to get my car tuned. I need a AFR gauge along with the computer? Anything else?
There's a guy with a UniChip (no idea if thats a standalone or piggyback?) with PnP harness in the classifieds for $80. I've read the wiring can be difficult and expensive as well? Theres some good reviews on that system, but no one locally seems to have any experience with it?
I'm just confused with the difference between standalones and piggybacks, map and afr tuning, and what different components are needed to get my car tuned. I need a AFR gauge along with the computer? Anything else?
There's a guy with a UniChip (no idea if thats a standalone or piggyback?) with PnP harness in the classifieds for $80. I've read the wiring can be difficult and expensive as well? Theres some good reviews on that system, but no one locally seems to have any experience with it?
if its cheap, its a piggy back.
a piggy back is essentially that, it ties into your existing ecu.
your stock ecu takes readings from all the different sensors (mass airflow, intake temp, oil temp, camshaft position, fuel pressure, knock...) and adjusts to a pre written program. a piggy back will have a tie into those sensors, wires, and manipulate them + or -. however most of our ecu's are advanced enough to compensate back, a fighting battle to get to the as close to the pre written program. that is why after a couple of weeks, you need to reset your ecu, wiping the table clean, and force it to re do everything.
stand alone replaces your ecu, whole new program. unless you know how to tune (which is why some shops will say, we have experience with this suchnsuch stand alone). different programs requires different programers. some companies like greddy are up to 16 bit already, which is to my understanding, all the different points at which you can tune.
AFR, air fuel ratio. the leaner you run something, the more power, but you get to a certain point in which your engine cant handle it. whole bunch of things come into play, what type of gas, what ratio's at what points, whats the temp of the air thats going in (temp affects volume, hence you probably already know and feel how your car runs stronger when its cold and dry outside).
mapping is the grid at which your car is running, fuel quality, fuel quantity rpm, air, temp, volume, so many things to consider. so yes, tuning aint easy even for those that are experienced with it.
from my experience so far with the lexus, im just running a piggy back to compensate for the larger volume of air from the intake, the ecu relearns itself, by my driving schedule, every 2 weeks or less. you can feel the car lacks in responsiveness, and overall torque. when that happens, i reset the ecu (pull neg batt terminal, wait for 30mins to an hour). when you do this, and you go for a spin, you will see and feel the car going thru cycles, trying to find an idle point, rev point for a bit. then its happy driving.
a piggy back is essentially that, it ties into your existing ecu.
your stock ecu takes readings from all the different sensors (mass airflow, intake temp, oil temp, camshaft position, fuel pressure, knock...) and adjusts to a pre written program. a piggy back will have a tie into those sensors, wires, and manipulate them + or -. however most of our ecu's are advanced enough to compensate back, a fighting battle to get to the as close to the pre written program. that is why after a couple of weeks, you need to reset your ecu, wiping the table clean, and force it to re do everything.
stand alone replaces your ecu, whole new program. unless you know how to tune (which is why some shops will say, we have experience with this suchnsuch stand alone). different programs requires different programers. some companies like greddy are up to 16 bit already, which is to my understanding, all the different points at which you can tune.
AFR, air fuel ratio. the leaner you run something, the more power, but you get to a certain point in which your engine cant handle it. whole bunch of things come into play, what type of gas, what ratio's at what points, whats the temp of the air thats going in (temp affects volume, hence you probably already know and feel how your car runs stronger when its cold and dry outside).
mapping is the grid at which your car is running, fuel quality, fuel quantity rpm, air, temp, volume, so many things to consider. so yes, tuning aint easy even for those that are experienced with it.
from my experience so far with the lexus, im just running a piggy back to compensate for the larger volume of air from the intake, the ecu relearns itself, by my driving schedule, every 2 weeks or less. you can feel the car lacks in responsiveness, and overall torque. when that happens, i reset the ecu (pull neg batt terminal, wait for 30mins to an hour). when you do this, and you go for a spin, you will see and feel the car going thru cycles, trying to find an idle point, rev point for a bit. then its happy driving.
I've been told Apexi SFAC is the way to go, but I've been quoted $2500-4000 to do it. So I want to know a little bit more about how tuning works before I fork over that amount of money..
I'm just confused with the difference between standalones and piggybacks, map and afr tuning, and what different components are needed to get my car tuned. I need a AFR gauge along with the computer? Anything else?
There's a guy with a UniChip (no idea if thats a standalone or piggyback?) with PnP harness in the classifieds for $80. I've read the wiring can be difficult and expensive as well? Theres some good reviews on that system, but no one locally seems to have any experience with it?
I'm just confused with the difference between standalones and piggybacks, map and afr tuning, and what different components are needed to get my car tuned. I need a AFR gauge along with the computer? Anything else?
There's a guy with a UniChip (no idea if thats a standalone or piggyback?) with PnP harness in the classifieds for $80. I've read the wiring can be difficult and expensive as well? Theres some good reviews on that system, but no one locally seems to have any experience with it?
As for your wheel, do you know your offsets? 9.5 and 10.5 wouldn't hurt but really depends on your drop and offsets. You might get slight rub on the front. Currently my setup is 19x8.5 and 19x10. Offsets are +27 F and +33 R. The front is rubbing on sharp turns and rear is perfectly flush with no rubbing at all. I'm dropped about 2.5" all around.
My IS is daily driven and with aggressive setup, you're going to have a tough time keeping your wheels from bending or cracks because of the low profile tire and horrible road conditions.
Last edited by J250; Apr 1, 2013 at 10:05 PM.
How much of a drop do you have? Also what tire sizes are you going with? I hope you are ready to roll fenders and remove fender liner because those are some really aggressive setup... I'm sure you are going to be rubbing front and rear with that setup..