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Can anyone let me know if there is a reason behind capping off these lines? It looks to me like there should be a connecting hose between these two locations. Although I am not sure.
Thats for the p/s pressure switch. If you look at the other side of the timing area you'll see where it comes out and goes to the switch. I'm guessing its disconnected on the other side too. If not, it should be open so the car can raise idle when turning the wheel while stopped. The original hose that is missing just allowed it to take filtered air.
Tomorrow I will be ordering the rest of my exhaust, headers and down pipe, along with two o2 sensor extenders to prevent the CEL from coming on. I decided to give eBay another shot with more one off parts, Together these are under 200$ and complete my exhaust. For a very similar product from OBX on eBay I was looking at 550$.
The only difference I see from these images is that the OBX has a flex pipe adapted in to the piping and the location of the sensor bungs. Our OEM exhaust does not have a flex pipe, and I’ve never been a huge fan of flex pipes in my past builds and projects, I always seemed to get a leak from the flex pipe location first. Whats your input on this? Id appreciate any input.
Your setup will be exactly the same as mine. I used the cheapo IS300 headers and the midpipe you are looking at. I did have to shave down the motor mount bracket to fit the headers. Still worth it in my opinion. Just test fit, shave, and test fit again until it clears the mount.
If you are going to wrap your headers, do it while its out before the install. Obviously much easier out of the car. In this pic you can see the mount bracket just below the header that will need shaved down. You'll have a manifold gasket leak if it's up against it when bolted down.
If you are going to wrap your headers, do it while its out before the install. Obviously much easier out of the car. In this pic you can see the mount bracket just below the header that will need shaved down. You'll have a manifold gasket leak if it's up against it when bolted down.
I plan on spraying them with POR15 Heat resistant paint and wrapping them.
Can anyone let me know if there is a reason behind capping off these lines? It looks to me like there should be a connecting hose between these two locations. Although I am not sure.
01+ gs300 they are caped, they no longer uses that as its a electronic idle up
on 98-00 they are connected, that feeds air to the idle up control valve which feeds air to the intake manifold when power steering demand is required at low speeds
My Atoto A6 Premium head unit and Metra brand facia arrived over the weekend. 10.1” lol I gotta say, the size is pretty ridiculous and awesome at the same time. I’m just waiting on the Toyota harness that is plug and play through the amp like factory. I thought about bypassing the amp but honestly I think the stereo sounds great as it is, I’ll probably maybe eventually install a single 12” or 15” sub. Oh yeah, I have a reverse camera on its way too.
I also have headers and down-pipe on their way with two 90° o2 mini catalytic converters for the down stream bungs. I’m pretty sure they will correct any CEL from becoming cat-less. Washington state has no emission requirements as of 2020 so that’s pretty cool. Anyways. That’s my update for the day.
Oh yeah I have new tail lights on their way too. I was detailing my exterior last week and noticed my passenger tail light housing was cracked pretty severely.
I also noticed that the LED circuit board is a little bit close to the brake light plug when twisting it into lock position. You can see some exposed wire common to it. Brake lights Running lights Running and brake lights
06-19-19, 06:22 PM
