Project GS-X
09-19-17, 09:03 PM
#31
"The OEM CAM adjuster should be adjusted all the way inboard as Figs states in the install, I weld the OEM adjuster to the frame so it can't ever slip as you will only ever use the adjustments on the arm from now on. It will make sure when you are aggressively hucking the 4000lb car around the eccentric can never slip, and also makes 100% sure there will be no confusion at any shop doing an alignment on the car in the future so they can't mess with the stock adjuster and will be forced to use the arm adjustment. (because we all know just because you tell the shop not to use do something it doesn't mean the tech will do so, or that the message gets relayed to the tech)"
This is a good idea, I had just had a problem with a "speed shop" that does wheel alignments and supposedly knew about different aftermarket suspension parts. I had called and asked beforehand if they were familiar with FIGS and and aftermarket adjustable toe links. Of course, they "yessed" me to death so I proceeded down there and had them do my alignment. As soon as they put the car on the lift I had a bad feeling so I watched them like a hawk. I have the FIGS Tie rod ends. THESE ARE BRAND NEW and as you might know the ends are injection molded. I see one of these f****ers pull out a PROPANE TORCH and proceeded to heat up the tie rod!!!! I screamed at him to stop and asked what the hell was he doing? That that part was brand new! He then tells me that it was stuck! Are you kidding me? Then comes time to adjust the BRAND NEW toe links. After asking the owner again If they know how to adjust these he again says yes. Of course I watch and I see one of his goofy workers adjusting the ECCENTRIC BOLT not the rod!!! Again, I'm like "WTF are you doing?" I tell then that those are adjusted by the rod not the eccentric bolt!!
The owner then proceeds to tell me that the FIGS links can be adjusted but the eccentric OEM bolt as well that "it is a more fine tuned adjustment" I told him NO that these are not adjusted by the OEM bolt and I started to look up the FIGS instructions for the toe links to show him. The owner gets upset and tells me "we'll do what ever you want" I told him if he was gonna get upset to remove my car from the lift and I would go some where else.
Anyway, after everything was said and done I made them adjust the suspension correctly. I will NEVER set foot in that place again and I suggest to fellow CL members to watch these so called shops that claim to know about your car and the mods you do it.
"one of the reasons why the GS would get a little squrly' in the rear" - on this one since you have the rear apart you should really do the Rear Lower Knuckle Bushing, these get sloppy and cause the rear end to wash or get 'squrly' it is especially noticable if there is a hump, bump, or variation in the road while you are cornering at moderate to high speed, it causes rear bumpsteer and can be very scary at speed. Pressing in Figs solid spherical replacements completely eliminate this issue. The stock bushings are rubber and have a bit of left to right movement as they were designed to allow the aristo's with active rear steering to let the knuckle turn a little bit. The GS still uses the same bushing even though it doesn't have rear steer and once the rubber is worn it allows the knuckle to have some side to side play and cause the rear bumpsteer. It made an immediate and massive difference in my car, they are $165 and eliminated the rear wash in high speed cornering."
Looks like your a day late and a dollar short on this one bud; Perhaps you didn't read through my entire thread. I have ALL READY REPLACED the lower rear knuckle bushing with the FIGS spherical one. The car has been back on the road for months. I also replaced the track link bushing with the FIGS one as well (since I all ready had my entire rear suspension apart). The funny thing is that there is a pic the FIGS bushings getting ready to be installed in this thread..lol
Originally Posted by eskaeone
Yet again I find out that USDM GS's get the shaft while JDM Aristo's were "armed to the teeth" when it comes to upgraded OEM parts. Along with the legendary GTE engine I find out Aristo's came with a stock Torsen LSD. Wow way to take a **** on the US market Toyota! but its ok we work around it.
"Just to clarify so there is no confusion for other members in the future reading this thread, The JDM GTE V300 Aristo ABSOLUTELY DID NOT COME STOCK WITH AN LSD, PERIOD. LSD was an OPTION for the V300 and never was included as standard, we can see in your pictures that you did infact get a TORSEN LSD for your purchase, but warning to anyone buying ANY LSD pumpkin be it aristo, sc, or supra, MAKE the seller open the pumpkin and provide pics of the carrier to PROVE that it is LSD before you purchase, as it has been very common place on ebay, yahoo, and forums for buyers to overpay for an lsd diff only to receive an open diff. If the seller refuses to open the diff for pics or proof DO NOT BUY IT, find one elsewhere."
All though you are absolutely correct I never said the Torsen LSD came as STANDARD equipment. Perhaps my statement might be misinterpreted by fellow members due to the wording I used but that's not what I meant. what I meant by STOCK is that the Aristo came with an (optional) OEM LSD not an aftermarket one. I can understand that this statement might be interpreted as having said that ALL Aristo's came with the LSD option. However, thank you for pointing that out. I have corrected the issue.
On a side note I would hope that fellow members ask to see what they are purchasing first hand before they make any sort of payment for the part they are purchasing. Especially for such an expensive part as an LSD.
However, I don't know about Yahoo (US) but with ebay they have strict policies on purchasing/returning parts that are not as described. I have had to return a few parts myself that were not as they were described in the parts' description.
One option on purchasing parts is Yahoo (Japan) and using a reputable purchasing/shipping service (Like I did) to aquire JDM parts. It was much cheaper (for me) in the long run.
Here are some links that I used to help other members identify open and LSD diffs that Toyota has used in the Supra's, Aristo's etc.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ferential-Info
http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...f-swap-upgrade
"We have been purchasing complete V300 Aristo's to part for years and NONE of them have ever had a stock torsen LSD, EVER. If they did they would be included with the complete GTE swap kits we sell, but instead the aristo pumpkins get scrapped with the rest of the shell after it is parted because they aren't worth the removal time, weight, or container space."
This statement I don't understand (guess it's my turn). So are you saying that NO Aristo ever came with the optional OEM (stock) LSD??
That's strange because the one I purchased directly from Japan came from an Aristo.
"Please understand I am not trying to be hard on you or anything, I am just trying to make sure potential buyers do not get stuck paying way to much to end up with an open diff."
Not at all, Nothing wrong with making sure members get the best info possible.
This is a good idea, I had just had a problem with a "speed shop" that does wheel alignments and supposedly knew about different aftermarket suspension parts. I had called and asked beforehand if they were familiar with FIGS and and aftermarket adjustable toe links. Of course, they "yessed" me to death so I proceeded down there and had them do my alignment. As soon as they put the car on the lift I had a bad feeling so I watched them like a hawk. I have the FIGS Tie rod ends. THESE ARE BRAND NEW and as you might know the ends are injection molded. I see one of these f****ers pull out a PROPANE TORCH and proceeded to heat up the tie rod!!!! I screamed at him to stop and asked what the hell was he doing? That that part was brand new! He then tells me that it was stuck! Are you kidding me? Then comes time to adjust the BRAND NEW toe links. After asking the owner again If they know how to adjust these he again says yes. Of course I watch and I see one of his goofy workers adjusting the ECCENTRIC BOLT not the rod!!! Again, I'm like "WTF are you doing?" I tell then that those are adjusted by the rod not the eccentric bolt!!
The owner then proceeds to tell me that the FIGS links can be adjusted but the eccentric OEM bolt as well that "it is a more fine tuned adjustment" I told him NO that these are not adjusted by the OEM bolt and I started to look up the FIGS instructions for the toe links to show him. The owner gets upset and tells me "we'll do what ever you want" I told him if he was gonna get upset to remove my car from the lift and I would go some where else.
Anyway, after everything was said and done I made them adjust the suspension correctly. I will NEVER set foot in that place again and I suggest to fellow CL members to watch these so called shops that claim to know about your car and the mods you do it.
"one of the reasons why the GS would get a little squrly' in the rear" - on this one since you have the rear apart you should really do the Rear Lower Knuckle Bushing, these get sloppy and cause the rear end to wash or get 'squrly' it is especially noticable if there is a hump, bump, or variation in the road while you are cornering at moderate to high speed, it causes rear bumpsteer and can be very scary at speed. Pressing in Figs solid spherical replacements completely eliminate this issue. The stock bushings are rubber and have a bit of left to right movement as they were designed to allow the aristo's with active rear steering to let the knuckle turn a little bit. The GS still uses the same bushing even though it doesn't have rear steer and once the rubber is worn it allows the knuckle to have some side to side play and cause the rear bumpsteer. It made an immediate and massive difference in my car, they are $165 and eliminated the rear wash in high speed cornering."
Looks like your a day late and a dollar short on this one bud; Perhaps you didn't read through my entire thread. I have ALL READY REPLACED the lower rear knuckle bushing with the FIGS spherical one. The car has been back on the road for months. I also replaced the track link bushing with the FIGS one as well (since I all ready had my entire rear suspension apart). The funny thing is that there is a pic the FIGS bushings getting ready to be installed in this thread..lol
Went beast on the GS this time around with upgrades and got a slew of parts in; TEIN Flex, Swift springs, Swift thrust washers, upgraded TEIN aluminum spring seats, SPC front UCA's, Superpro front LCA bushings, rear subframe refresh (painted and straighted), poly subframe bushings, Figs toe links, Figs spherical track link bushings, Figs spherical rear LCA bushings, Figs Mega arms, FIGS tie rods, Superpro rear UCA bushings, Superpro sway bar bushings (that fits TRD sways) new rear axles, Super pro differential bushings, and the crown jewel of the rear end an Aristo 3.77 differential with OEM Torsen LSD.
Here is the DIY thread I did for the SPC front UCA's
I also upgrade the springs seats on the Flex from rubber to wider aluminum ones also made by TEIN. To finish the springs off I also added a metal/composite thrust washer combo (also from Swift) to help the springs spin during bound/rebound.
All the bushings were shot so I systematically started switching them out and it was the rear ends turn.
Mega arms replaced the stock LCA's and I swapped out the rear axle carrier rubber bushing and the track link bushings for Figs spherical ones. let me say if you plan to do this the best way is to purchase (and then return..) an SPC bushing extractor. The SPC is really the best one for this job.
I used a 12 ton shop press that I bought from Harbor Freight a while back to remove the LCA bushing but for the track link bushing the only way to remove it was with the SPC extractor.
Unfortunately I don't have pics of the SPC tool in action my phone decided it wanted to delete those pics.
Here is the DIY thread I did for the SPC front UCA's
I also upgrade the springs seats on the Flex from rubber to wider aluminum ones also made by TEIN. To finish the springs off I also added a metal/composite thrust washer combo (also from Swift) to help the springs spin during bound/rebound.
All the bushings were shot so I systematically started switching them out and it was the rear ends turn.
Mega arms replaced the stock LCA's and I swapped out the rear axle carrier rubber bushing and the track link bushings for Figs spherical ones. let me say if you plan to do this the best way is to purchase (and then return..) an SPC bushing extractor. The SPC is really the best one for this job.
I used a 12 ton shop press that I bought from Harbor Freight a while back to remove the LCA bushing but for the track link bushing the only way to remove it was with the SPC extractor.
Unfortunately I don't have pics of the SPC tool in action my phone decided it wanted to delete those pics.
Originally Posted by eskaeone
Yet again I find out that USDM GS's get the shaft while JDM Aristo's were "armed to the teeth" when it comes to upgraded OEM parts. Along with the legendary GTE engine I find out Aristo's came with a stock Torsen LSD. Wow way to take a **** on the US market Toyota! but its ok we work around it.
"Just to clarify so there is no confusion for other members in the future reading this thread, The JDM GTE V300 Aristo ABSOLUTELY DID NOT COME STOCK WITH AN LSD, PERIOD. LSD was an OPTION for the V300 and never was included as standard, we can see in your pictures that you did infact get a TORSEN LSD for your purchase, but warning to anyone buying ANY LSD pumpkin be it aristo, sc, or supra, MAKE the seller open the pumpkin and provide pics of the carrier to PROVE that it is LSD before you purchase, as it has been very common place on ebay, yahoo, and forums for buyers to overpay for an lsd diff only to receive an open diff. If the seller refuses to open the diff for pics or proof DO NOT BUY IT, find one elsewhere."
All though you are absolutely correct I never said the Torsen LSD came as STANDARD equipment. Perhaps my statement might be misinterpreted by fellow members due to the wording I used but that's not what I meant. what I meant by STOCK is that the Aristo came with an (optional) OEM LSD not an aftermarket one. I can understand that this statement might be interpreted as having said that ALL Aristo's came with the LSD option. However, thank you for pointing that out. I have corrected the issue.
On a side note I would hope that fellow members ask to see what they are purchasing first hand before they make any sort of payment for the part they are purchasing. Especially for such an expensive part as an LSD.
However, I don't know about Yahoo (US) but with ebay they have strict policies on purchasing/returning parts that are not as described. I have had to return a few parts myself that were not as they were described in the parts' description.
One option on purchasing parts is Yahoo (Japan) and using a reputable purchasing/shipping service (Like I did) to aquire JDM parts. It was much cheaper (for me) in the long run.
Here are some links that I used to help other members identify open and LSD diffs that Toyota has used in the Supra's, Aristo's etc.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...ferential-Info
http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...f-swap-upgrade
"We have been purchasing complete V300 Aristo's to part for years and NONE of them have ever had a stock torsen LSD, EVER. If they did they would be included with the complete GTE swap kits we sell, but instead the aristo pumpkins get scrapped with the rest of the shell after it is parted because they aren't worth the removal time, weight, or container space."
This statement I don't understand (guess it's my turn). So are you saying that NO Aristo ever came with the optional OEM (stock) LSD??
That's strange because the one I purchased directly from Japan came from an Aristo.
"Please understand I am not trying to be hard on you or anything, I am just trying to make sure potential buyers do not get stuck paying way to much to end up with an open diff."
Not at all, Nothing wrong with making sure members get the best info possible.
Last edited by Tank; 09-19-17 at 09:22 PM.
09-20-17, 08:35 PM
#32
"one of the reasons why the GS would get a little squrly' in the rear" - on this one since you have the rear apart you should really do the Rear Lower Knuckle Bushing,
Perhaps you didn't read through my entire thread. I have ALL READY REPLACED the lower rear knuckle bushing with the FIGS spherical one. The car has been back on the road for months. I also replaced the track link bushing with the FIGS one as well (since I all ready had my entire rear suspension apart). The funny thing is that there is a pic the FIGS bushings getting ready to be installed in this thread..
Perhaps you didn't read through my entire thread. I have ALL READY REPLACED the lower rear knuckle bushing with the FIGS spherical one. The car has been back on the road for months. I also replaced the track link bushing with the FIGS one as well (since I all ready had my entire rear suspension apart). The funny thing is that there is a pic the FIGS bushings getting ready to be installed in this thread..
"We have been purchasing complete V300 Aristo's to part for years and NONE of them have ever had a stock torsen LSD, EVER. If they did they would be included with the complete GTE swap kits we sell, but instead the aristo pumpkins get scrapped with the rest of the shell after it is parted because they aren't worth the removal time, weight, or container space."
This statement I don't understand (guess it's my turn). So are you saying that NO Aristo ever came with the optional OEM (stock) LSD??
That's strange because the one I purchased directly from Japan came from an Aristo.
This statement I don't understand (guess it's my turn). So are you saying that NO Aristo ever came with the optional OEM (stock) LSD??
That's strange because the one I purchased directly from Japan came from an Aristo.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 09-20-17 at 09:06 PM.
11-07-17, 08:45 PM
#33
All good, I did read the thread and saw you did the track link bushing and had the pic of the bushing already pressed out, but must have missed the lower knuckle because you were calling it the a lower control arm bushing not the rear Knuckle bushing. Either way it's a massive improvement, and anyone pushing power or that drives hard needs to address that bushing as it eliminates the rear wash these cars get once it has a bit of age and/or mileage on the chassis.
I have no doubt you got one from an Aristo, What I meant was Toyota did not ship Aristo's to dealers with prefitted LSD's for inventory, If a customer special ordered a vehicle they could add LSD as an option, or obviously they could purchase an LSD through the parts department and have it installed on a car they were purchasing off the lot. But both were very rare. They are out there in the wild with OEM LSD's but there aren't very many of them. ClubLexus unfortunately has a history of misinformation about the v300, and for quite a few years people kept claiming that all v300 TT Aristos had LSD, and it just is not true, and it cost quite a few members alot of headache, hassle, and money buying pumpkins only to find out it was open.
I have no doubt you got one from an Aristo, What I meant was Toyota did not ship Aristo's to dealers with prefitted LSD's for inventory, If a customer special ordered a vehicle they could add LSD as an option, or obviously they could purchase an LSD through the parts department and have it installed on a car they were purchasing off the lot. But both were very rare. They are out there in the wild with OEM LSD's but there aren't very many of them. ClubLexus unfortunately has a history of misinformation about the v300, and for quite a few years people kept claiming that all v300 TT Aristos had LSD, and it just is not true, and it cost quite a few members alot of headache, hassle, and money buying pumpkins only to find out it was open.
11-07-17, 08:54 PM
#34
Moving along..
Well the projector issues that have plagued may car for years have finally been confirmed. The LS460 projectors seem to be too heavy for the self leveling actuator motors. After the self check and the car is on the road for a bit the projectors will drop lowing the beam level. I have stiff suspension so perhaps this circumstance makes this issue happen more quickly.
I am going to try and mod the motors and see if I can make them stronger and able to hold the weight of the projectors.
I update this in the future.
I am going to try and mod the motors and see if I can make them stronger and able to hold the weight of the projectors.
I update this in the future.
11-24-17, 01:36 PM
#35
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We have been purchasing complete V300 Aristo's to part for years and NONE of them have ever had a stock torsen LSD, EVER. If they did they would be included with the complete GTE swap kits we sell, but instead the aristo pumpkins get scrapped with the rest of the shell after it is parted because they aren't worth the removal time, weight, or container space.
Are you a source or do you have a reputable source for Aristo motors. I'm looking to have a swap done this summer and I'm wary of the motors on Ebay. Not trying to hijack this thread by the way as there's some awesome info I'll referencing to for my GS as well.
02-25-18, 10:13 PM
#38
Super charger install
Lets get this build thread back on topic..
Started working on a supercharger install.
Currently "Reverse engineering" a kit that was formally available for the GS4's.
Difficult but not impossible. Looking good so far.
Started working on a supercharger install.
Currently "Reverse engineering" a kit that was formally available for the GS4's.
Difficult but not impossible. Looking good so far.
Last edited by Tank; 02-26-18 at 04:29 AM.
02-25-18, 10:21 PM
#39
Power steering pulley
Had to get over a couple of hurdles with this type of install, and there are still more ahead.
The power steering pulley was the first. Didn't wanna blow cash on a custom P/S pulley to run the blower so I cut the middle out of an old P/S pulley and had it stitch welded to another. The modded pulley has been balanced to minimize vibration. P/S pump has been rebuilt so It should hold up with the bit of added weight. Time will tell.
The power steering pulley was the first. Didn't wanna blow cash on a custom P/S pulley to run the blower so I cut the middle out of an old P/S pulley and had it stitch welded to another. The modded pulley has been balanced to minimize vibration. P/S pump has been rebuilt so It should hold up with the bit of added weight. Time will tell.
Last edited by Tank; 02-26-18 at 09:51 PM.
02-26-18, 04:49 AM
#40
Radiator hose adapter
Next on the pre-install check list is the thermostat housing adaptor. A buddy member cut and sandwiched a couple of housings together with silicone. I took it a step further and had the sandwich welded together to avoid any potential leaks.
02-26-18, 04:56 AM
#41
Tensioner pulley
Next up was the tensioner pulley, a key part for this version of blower install. There are two types of tensioner pulleys for the GS4’s, I could only go with the older style pulley to be able to fit the blower bracket type that I’m using correctly. The updated pulley wouldn’t Have worked.
If you look at the newer pulley (older version) it has more open space for the blower bracket to fit than the updated tensioner pulley.
If you look at the newer pulley (older version) it has more open space for the blower bracket to fit than the updated tensioner pulley.
Last edited by Tank; 02-26-18 at 03:17 PM.
02-26-18, 03:36 PM
#43
Update on the Headlamp actuator motors; I opened them up and modded the mechanism to make them stiffer and able to hold more weight. The motors still spin but with a bit more effort. Hopefully this works and the projectors dont bounce around any more but I wont be able to tell until I finish the blower initial install, which hopefully will be finished by the spring. More to come.
02-26-18, 04:05 PM
#44
I had my gs430 supercharged years ago. The kit I purchased was missing a bunch of parts so I found another local member with a kit and had a machinist measure and copy the major pieces. Plus I had the steering pump pulley custom made. I do believe I still have the shops number that made it for me. Worked perfectly and was fairly cheap to make. I also still have quite a few of the blueprints/measurements for the parts I had made for the rmm kit in a folder I just found while cleaning out my office. Maybe I can help you out.
(also just noticed you sent me pm last year, sorry haven't been on here much lately and rarely check my messages)
(also just noticed you sent me pm last year, sorry haven't been on here much lately and rarely check my messages)
02-26-18, 05:22 PM
#45
[QUOTE=eskaeone;10124786]
im assuming that the p/s pulley is going to be driving the supercharger. if so, is that pulley diameter the same as the original rmm kit? the reason i ask. another member awhile back did his own custom supercharger and discovered he wasn't getting any boost. come to find out, the pulley he made to adapt to the p/s pulley was too small. therefore not spinning the supercharger fast enough. he had to remake it bigger.. just throwing that out there.
Had to get over a couple of hurdles with this type of install, and there are still more ahead.
The power steering pulley was the first. Didn't wanna blow cash on a costom P/S pulley to run the blower so I cut the middle out of an old P/S pulley and had it stitch welded to another. Pully has been ballanced to minimize vibration. P/S pump has been rebuilt so It should hold up with the bit of added weight. Time will tell.
[/QUOTeThe power steering pulley was the first. Didn't wanna blow cash on a costom P/S pulley to run the blower so I cut the middle out of an old P/S pulley and had it stitch welded to another. Pully has been ballanced to minimize vibration. P/S pump has been rebuilt so It should hold up with the bit of added weight. Time will tell.
im assuming that the p/s pulley is going to be driving the supercharger. if so, is that pulley diameter the same as the original rmm kit? the reason i ask. another member awhile back did his own custom supercharger and discovered he wasn't getting any boost. come to find out, the pulley he made to adapt to the p/s pulley was too small. therefore not spinning the supercharger fast enough. he had to remake it bigger.. just throwing that out there.