eicca

Supra TT MAF is an interesting idea. My one worry is the ECU itself isn't set up for that kind of airflow regardless of the sensor. With the bigger MAF and bigger injectors, would the ECU maybe just see "situation normal?" The reading from the O2 sensors might freak it out.

Thinking out loud here.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

My thinking is that in closed loop (idle, cruise, anything below full throttle) the car is going to adjust for that 14.7:1 AFR no matter what. So if the O2s tell it to lean out because it sensing alot of fuel dumping from the bigger injectors, the ECU will cut fuel.

Then during open loop at full throttle, it ignores the O2s and reads MAF voltage.

If the TT MAF has a wider range to sense more airflow than the GS (makes sense because the turbo had huge 440CC injectors) than it might be easier to pull or add fuel with the apexi.

Basically, the GS has a window that stops at say, 500cfm per minute (random numbers) and above that it throws the P0101 code
The TT has a higher window, that stops at say 900cfm per minute

This is all assuming the ECU is good with all of this and communicating okay

This is also where the dyno tune comes in. My tuner unplugs one of my rear o2s and plugs in his to his computer for AFRs for safe tuning

eicca

Oh duh, 02 sensors don't care about quantity, only ratio. The AFR should stay the same regardless of the extra air, as long as the injectors are flowing enough to keep it correct. Right?

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Yeah basically if I had a 100% stock car, and added 80 to 100CC bigger injectors, at idle the ECU would probably cut a little bit of fuel

The ECU is designed -15% or +15% trim either way for various global reasons such as very high altitude where there is less oxygen. It would run too rich, so it trims fuel up there too.

But with a procharger / injectors / TT MAF it might have a larger window at full throttle to tune with

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Well I could possibly see close to 14.7:1 with the bypass valve bleeding boost off at idle/partial cruise/under WOT. Centrifugal prochargers make far less boost than roots style blowers at idle so that combined with the bypass valve will hopefully make it idle like stock. This is assuming the ECU can cut enough fuel from the bigger 430cc injectors. If I get 13.8:1 to 14:1 I'd be happy

Also, I didn't know that you don't measure superchager belt pulley from lip to lip, but rather from belt groove to belt groove.
Mine is 3.1" outer casing so I thought this was the pulley size. But actually, it measures exactly 2.8" from where the belt wraps around from groove to groove.
So I don't have to spend $110 on a 2.8" pulley anymore because I have one!!

So, I will update post #1 with rpm speeds.
At 550 rpm engine idle, the procharger will spin at 3,470 rpm.
When cruising the engine is usually around 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, so the procharger will spin at 12,620 to 15,775 rpm.
At 6,200 rpm redline, it will spin at 39,122 rpm which is still 20,878 less than it's max spin rate.


This sounds like alot, but the step up ratio on this P600B is only like 3.05:1 and not 4:1 like most other head units so they probably come out about the same if you have a 3.2" pulley on those higher step up ratios ones.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

GS400v8, your gonna have to play it safe once you get that thing running. you had better install a permanent wide band air fuel ratio gauge. its like 260 bucks and worth every penny. if you go cruising around and stomping on it and you think its plenty powerful but your actually running too lean at like 13.6 than your leaving power and safety on the table. get that wide band ordered tonight. thats an order. also, you have option for enriching the mixture since your stock injectors will not keep up at 8psi. you can install 8 additional injectors in the intake plenum but thats way more expensive and you gotta have the computer to control those along with the additional fuel rails to connect them all together. you can do the simplest thing which is us a huge 9th injector welded in the intake manifold like i have and use a split second injector controller to control it which is very simple and ease to use. or you can install 320cc injectors and enlarge the maf housing but than you have no way to tune it precisely. OOOOORRRRRRR. buy some big fatty injectors and an AEM FIC8 with a 500 dollar boomslang harness and use it to control the injectors along with adjusting the maf table to not max out the maf sensor and also pull timing if needed. wurd

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Wow thanks for those ideas badblackgs.
Well, I'll start with having the supercharger on, and taking it to my tuner for a dyno tune to measure AFRs.
The 2.8" pulley doesn't promise 8psi. Apparently the more free-flowing an engine is, the more it takes to create psi.
If I can't get a safe tune that isn't rich enough, it will take 1 minute to disconnect the two-piece charge pipe connected with a silicone coupler, and slipping a cone filter on there, which will basically be stock.

Edit: Here is not how to do things kids lol -
Just some ideas here: I think bigger injectors would be fine, especially with a different MAF.
But, lets say its not.
I could tap into the fuel pressure test port at the end of the fuel rail. M14 x 1.5 thread. This will go to a -4 or -6AN adapter to a small fuel line that runs to a fuel injector in the manifold.
The fuel injector would be activated the way a ZEX boost activated nitrous switch does. It is basically an electrical switch where under 0 vacuum, or full throttle, it completes the circuit.
It has a diaphragm that basically pushes the contacts together under 0 vacuum.
It would intercept into a positive wire that is hooked up to say fuel injector #1, and the negative is hooked to that injector #1.
In other words: the large fuel injector #9 is hooked up to fuel injector #1 with the ground wire, but the vacuum controlled unit will complete that positive wire connection that goes between them at full throttle.
Then it will pulse at the same width and timing as injector #1.
I'd be prepared to add a resistor to keep it from loading down the injector. I do this on audio items all the time.

Vacuum activated electrical switch: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zex-82081/overview/

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

I get what your saying but thats very archaic. go to split seconds website and look up the auxiliary injector controller. its about 250 i think but allows you to control to additional injectors. (im only running one 1,000cc for now). its very easy and much more tune able. basically you run power and ground to it, and a boost line from the intake manifold. and than it comes with a cd that you upload to your computer. than open it. set up the info. it wants, than the fuel map is literally an excel spreadsheet. boost on the vertical column and rpm on the horizontal column. the injector is controlled by milliseconds. so just throw some small numbers in there at first like 1.0 millisecond and gradually injcrease it to 2.3 milliseconds at redline and take it for a drive. than while monitoring your afr gauge you'll see what changes you need to make. that simple.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

oh and one wire for the tach. signal that taps into the pcm wire going to the instrument cluster. ill even tell you where its at if you go that route.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Okay thanks, I trust your judgement, it sounds more flexible.
Honestly, I would rather do fuel injectors

I also went to my friend's business today to work on the car. I'll put some pics below.
I cut the 3 water housing outlets apart so only the flanges remained.
2 of 3 of the water housing outlets were polished aluminum, and the other one a dull cast even though they were all Dorman part numbers.
I didn't have anything like a scotch brite pad to knock the shine off the shiny ones, but I did wire-wheel the cast oem-looking one to a slight polish.
Eventually I want to knock the shine off of them to make it stand out less, but we will see.
I used toyota black RTV sealant, which is like half superglue, between each flange. Now the procharger belt clears the lower radiator hose !

I also cut and welded up the first half of the steel bracket. It has a "K" like shape, but more 3D, and very, very strong.
So strong that when I was going to position it around, I didn't have the top cam cover bolt in all the way and it bent the bolt sideways.
I had many extra cam bolts though in various lengths so it was no problem.
The other supporting half of the bracket will be like an "L" shape going behind the a stock air resonator bolt no longer used, but the "L" shape more 3D and connected to the "K" side via the front of the headunit "U" bracket.
I'll grind down the welds, and way later down the road have the whole bracket powdercoated gloss black.

Next steps: More bracket welding, along with that small belt tensioner. Fuel injectors. Oil lines.
Then intercooler piping, dyno tune, and I'm done! Well hopefully done if the bigger 310cc injectors can keep up

I also want to do something with the rear "GS400" Emblem. I am thinking of buying a used SC300/400/430 badge, but just using the "SC" part. Then carefully dremeling them apart, and putting a "/" emblem piece (maybe from the 'A' in toyota emblem maybe rav4) in the middle to create "GS 400 S/C" but I want the S/C part to be either flat black, or red so I will sand them and paint them maybe. I'll show a picture of this as well. It's my favorite idea and photoshop out of all the ones I tried.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Keep in mind I'm not really doing anything different or crazy from the SRT or RMM supercharger kits that were sold.
But because they are impossible to find, (who would want to sell their s/c kit after driving around in a sports-car fast 4-door Lexus?) I am just simply building my own. My kit will be far cheaper though.

Here was what I did in the 1st shop visit:
1. Cut apart the 3 extra water outlets down to just the flanges to space out the lower radiator hose to clear the procharger belt
2. Welded most of the bracket

Here are the next plans roughly organized:

2nd shop visit:
1. Finish welding complete bracket.
2. Run oil lines and maybe run the longer power steering reservoir hoses to relocate it while I am getting messy anyways
3. Weld up the custom 8 ribbed p/s pully to the power steering pump.
4. Of the couple of belts bought, pick the one with good length and tension. (Order in 8 rib later.)
5. Start engine and run the procharger but not plumbed to the intake, so stock air tube with maf.
6. Rev to redline a few times to test bracket strength and check for play or idler movement.

3rd shop visit:
1. Bolting up side mount aristo intercooler in the passenger wheel well.
2. Cutting the 3" aluminum pipe kit for the hot and cold sides. I don't want shiny, so I will have to dull the finish.
3. Extend the 5 MAF wires to reach the cold pipe.
4. Make the MAF flange or maybe use from a weapon R intake section.
5. Fit vacuum lines into intake tube.
6. Silicone couplers will hold the pipes in place although the pipes will be touching each other inside the coupler.
7. This is so they can be brought later to a shop down to road to be TIG welded with AC current.
8. After welded, there will still be silicone couplers in some locations for flex ability and removal of the pipes if needed.

Visit to tuner:
Bolt on the procharger when I get there and tune it.
Then I want to go back to get a BOV mounted on the hot side at some point later down the road.
Also grind the welds on the steel bracket and have it powder coated black.

Done! Enjoy the Lexus reliability and 420-460HP in one of the lighter models!

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

After a lot of research and ordering parts and then comparing them, I figured out what fuel injectors drop in the 1UZFE with VVTi.
Everything I read said that 7mge 315cc injectors (from cressida) dropped into the older 1UZFE because everyone was boosting those, but was never confirmed with the vvti equipped one.
It turns out you can install those, but you have to cut the fuel rail spacers down because they are shorter.
You can also install the 1JZGTE with vvti injectors (from many cars including the crown) but they have the same problem except for dremeling the plugs.
These older style injectors also lack air assist, which the 1UZ vvti has. So with both of these, you would have to block off the two air assist holes between the throttle body and upper manifold.

For the 1uzfe with vvti, the 310cc 1991-1997 GS300/SC300 2jzge N/A non-vvti fit, but you want the 1996-1997 versions with california emissions, blue housings, as they had air assist.

The 310cc 1994-1997 Toyota Supra 2jzge N/A non-vvti motors had the same issue. Choose the california emissions and not the federal emission which were red housings.

So the 1st gen 2jzge non-vvti (with california emissions which is recommended) drop right into the 1uzfe vvti fuel rails. Dimensions, o-rings, seals, and everything are identical. I took the flow rate from a thread on toyota nation http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...z-1uz-3mz.html

Here are some pics below.


EDIT: The 310cc injectors are a little dangerous for 350rwhp or more. They can probably work, but you do not want to chance this with forced induction. 370cc are usually for cars with 470hp but that is naturally aspirated. For forced induction, you want slightly bigger.

I'll try use these Mazda RX8 Yellow 430cc secondary injectors from the manual cars with the grommets from the Red Primary Injectors. They are denso connectors, they are 100% plug and play connector-wise with the 1992-2005 lexus gs/sc. The correct yellow injectors aren't pictured until post 74.

I also am picturing how the ribbed pulley will be welded to the smooth tensioner pulley. 2.5" Outer diameter stainless steel pipe fits perfectly the ribbed pulley so it can be welded 2 ways, inside and out on the ribbed side, as well as 2 ways on the smooth pulley side. This works great because it also needs to be spaced out to line up with procharger pulley, and it adds strength to the unit. Idea discarded. Will have to add little belt tensioner on bracket and weld ford pulley to the power steering pump pulley.

This first pic, left to right: 250cc Non vvti 1UZFE (same size/style/length as 310cc 7mge, and 380cc 1jzgte with vvti). Then a 250cc 1UZ/3UZ vvti, and last the 310cc non vvti 2jzge with california emissions and air assist. The plug connectors are the same in every injector listed above except for the 7mge which needs to be dremeled slightly.

99 GS3

iTrader: (14)

Good research and info you posted on the injector differences.

One thing to consider, driving the supercharger from the smooth pulley may induce even more slippage than smooth pulleys already have. A smooth pulley does not provide the same amount of contact friction surface areas of as the v groove pulley, nor is the backside of the belt created to grip like the front/drive side of the belt. There is more slippage on a smooth pulley in the system than the other drive pulleys, and the smooth pulley isn't always matching the rpm of the ribbed ones due to this. The smooth pulleys are used for tensioning, routing, or reversing belt direction only. Once you put the high torque load of the supercharger at high rpms on the back side of the belt it is going to slip on the smooth pulley quite a bit and negatively effect the supercharger rotation, causing it to not make the power it should/could make, or even worse cause randomly inconsistent boost levels at varying rpms or engine loading which obviously will screw up the tune.

Not trying to be negative here, it's a cool project, and welding a drive pulley for an SC to another pulley is pretty standard practice and is fine to do, but I would defiantly put it on a ribbed pulley not a smooth one, as the smooth pulley and the backside of the belt are not designed to drive an accessory directly.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

99 GS3, you are absolutely right, I didn't think about that. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and share your input. That helped me so much, I would have been stuck for a while if I went through with the previous idea.

(So the tensioner pulley idea will not work all together. Because it is on the opposite side of the belt, it spins in the opposite direction like the cooling fan pulley does. The first re-routing idea wouldnt work because it would be spinning in the right direction, but it wouldnt have enough downforce to push the belt down without a bigger pulley. Though with a bigger pulley, it would then hit the power steering pulley and not clear.)

I have a new plan and pictures as well as a diagram for the new belt routing. I pressed the bearing out of the 8 rib ford pulley. It will weld to the power steering pulley and run to the s/c. The bearing pressed out gives room for the p/s bolt to go through, I already test fit it.

Then I can bolt up another small tensioner pulley attaching it to the supercharger bracket via welded threaded bungs and/or lining up with the headunit bracket bolt(s). There is plenty of room on the bracket and the tensioner would press down on the belt.

Kitabel, I hope this new idea helps fix everything.

GS400V8

iTrader: (4)

Some more updated pics.
I opened up around 110 boxes today at work, going through various pulleys and belt tensioner assemblies.

Out of all of them, here is what works:

The tensioner assembly, that will work best with the current procharger bracket I made, is a from a 2001 Hyundai Sonta/Santa Fe with the 2.7L V6.
Although that car had a 6 rib width pulley, a 8 rib smooth idler pulley from the 2001 Ford Lightning works perfectly on it and is wider. Of course this one has the bearing still in it. I picked a unit that purposefully did not have a left hand threaded bolt. It uses a normal thread bolt because it goes in from behind. It relieves tension via a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Part Numbers:
8 Ribbed 5.6" Lightning Power Steering Pulley: 300-006
8 Smooth Lightning Pulley: 231048
Sonata/Santa Fe 2.7L Tensioner Assembly: 305304


The pic shows the Hyundai pulley with the Lightning smooth pulley on it.
It is faced backwards for pic reasons, the standoff will face the other way towards the bracket and on the other side how the first pic shows.
Also shows how the pulley width is perfect for the 8 rib belt that goes on everything.
The standoffs will have to be cut slightly down, but I love that they are there. One bolt even lines up with a headunit bolt.
The assembly isn't too small or too large, and has a very strong tension.
I had to put it in a vice and put a 3/8 ratchet in it to relieve tension, while on others, I could move them with my hands.