yeah, sorry Mike, JDMV8 got the hood that we had in stock...

Rafi

 

Finally mounted the hood and aligned it with tightening and re-tightening mounting points and shifting the hood. Great fitment
To retain the windshield washers, drilling of the hood is required (to route the hoses and mount the nozzles).



I also had the idea to route a "cold air" duct into the intake box. It's the Home Depot special...hopefully IATs will be down when pushing the car

 

I haven't invested much time into the ISF since my last track day, so it's time to give it more attention!

I got the engine bay plastics and fog light surrounds hydrodipped in "carbon fiber."




In the upcoming week, I'm taking the car to RR-Racing for some upgrades (bigger rad, oil cooler, brakes, etc) and a ported/polished intake manifold (we'll see if we can break 430whp). I'll keep this updated!


I also performed a valve adjustment (among way too many other things) on the S2000. I would prefer not to do this again..especially for 32 valves on the ISF.
I threw an intake on the S2000 as well, and I can say I've never had an intake install on any car that increased the fun factor by so much. It roars up to ~9000 now

 

Nice details with that carbon

 

Track season is upon us, so I've had some obligatory mods: bigger radiator and setrab tranny cooler, engine oil cooler, and stiffer pu engine mounts all from RR-Racing.
I also switched the "cold air" intake duct I fabbed from the brake duct to the intake box from the metal air duct to a silicone pipe, commonly used on brake duct cooling applications.
After a few hot track days last summer, I found the metal duct to be hot to the touch as one felt deeper into the duct.



Fitting the ISS Forged scoops, OEM horns, and setrab coolers was a pain. But after some dremeling and new hardware, the scoops and horns fit in with the coolers. Woohoo!

 

Did you modify the OEM inlet on the bumper to attach the hose, or is that a replacement piece? I'm trying to figure out how to make some functional brake cooling ducts, so any details you can share (additional pics, part #s, etc) will be greatly appreciated. TIA.

-Mike

 

I searched my garage and basement and found a 3" plastic inlet like this:



Then I bought a meter of 3" silicone hose (used about 2/3 of it).

I got an "L" flange that I bolted to the RR Box with an existing screw at its bottom and poked a hole through the silicone duct (and that first galvanized steel duct) and secured it to the L flange.
All I did then was cut a 3" hole in the existing brake duct and secured the plastic sleeve to it and attached the silicone duct. Pretty painless, and the duct squeezes behind the headlight (it will bend a little, but not too much as to affect the cross-sectional area more than ~20%). Silicone is resilient too
You could get a new duct if you chop an existing one up. Looks straightforward to remove, although it is stapled to some parts (you'll need an industrial strength stapler if you choose to switch it out, unless you prefer tape or screws).
Rafi did not experience any change in brakes after the supercharger install: the SC deletes one of the brake ducts. So I wouldn't be worried about brakes being negatively affected with this mod, especially since the duct isn't deleted after all.
I'm going to datalog it this weekend at NJMP to see how IATs and other parameters are affected (I'll make runs with it blocked off as a control).

 

Was it difficult to wire the rear bumper reflectors? I just got mine but I'm not to familiar with wiring. Awesome build btw!

 

not at all...connect the wiring from both reflectors to a common connection, and just tap one of the appropriate tail light wiring harnesses. the hardest part is removing and installing the bumper.
Or rather, the most arduous* part!

 

I finally got around to testing a 3" silicone duct I fabbed up from the passenger brake duct into the RR-Racing Intake Box.



here's the data (datalogged with OBD Fusion (highly recommended) with the Le Link OBD2 device).

By first glance, the data including the duct lean towards colder temperatures. In fact they do. A quick 2-sample t-test shows that the mean of the ducted data set is < the mean of the data w/no duct.
Overall, the difference in averages is 5 F. Not ducted ran 5 F hotter. And ducted ran 2 F cooler.

The two trials were performed back to back with the same conditions at NJMP track day sessions (e.g.ambient temp stayed steady at 46 F).
To clarify: for the no duct trial, I plugged up both ends of the duct with shop towels and taped the openings which resulted in no flow.

This is a cheap, quick, and effective DIY mod that's shown results at high speeds (and I reckon would work well during highway driving too).

 

gave the F its yearly detail and changed out the rear LED reflectors (old ones had flickering LEDs).
I didn't post their install, but I got FIGs front UCAs, rear mega arms, and rear toe links, in addition to switching out my r888s to ad08r.
The car was much more fun on the track and tail-happy (dialed in to -2.75* rear, -2.25* front camber, maximized caster, and a bit of rear toe).
The ad08r were more predictable, feel-wise and audibly. Hard to compare to the r888s due to my suspension change...but I'll get the new r888r eventually

 

I pampered my other cars too, and got a bigger turbo on the Evo (430whp dynojet)
But....







This is an ISF thread

 

awesome picture! and awesome build thread

 

Awesome build thread. THanks for the details. Just bought an ISF and got a long week to wait while it gets shipped to me but will definitely apply the DIY intake mod.

 

awesome build here man!!!!!car looks freaking sick