94 SC300 1JZ Build Thread
#152
Thank you I'm doing a lot better but I unfortunately have to eliminate beer and good tasting fried food from my diet for a while. It's probably all for the best
On a side note, am I ok to use my stock water pump? Per this thread, CCC-TT states to replace the 1JZ pump since the gaskets will fail due to the difference in Japan vs US spec coolant but I haven't found any supporting threads on this claim. I have a Soarer engine so I don't have a hydrofan which is typically swapped out for a 2JZ clutch fan
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
On a side note, am I ok to use my stock water pump? Per this thread, CCC-TT states to replace the 1JZ pump since the gaskets will fail due to the difference in Japan vs US spec coolant but I haven't found any supporting threads on this claim. I have a Soarer engine so I don't have a hydrofan which is typically swapped out for a 2JZ clutch fan
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ventually.html
#154
#155
Thanks 99SC42! I actually found the spare one that the original owner included in the trunk of my car!
Today was spent installing the camshafts and brake/clutch pedals in the car. Unfortunately, the pedals I took a gamble on Ebay turned out to be paper weights. They were too big and had a tough time sitting in the cylinder head. Rather than force them and risk warping the head or bending some valves, we installed the stock ones.
The good news is that we got the master cylinder and brake pedal fully installed! The brake pedal was the biggest PITA I've faced in this build so far and I suggest having someone with small hands help you. Some tips I have is that you have to remove the the two computers that on top and to the side of the pedal. Without doing this, you will NOT have room to remove and reinstall the top bolt for the pedal. Even then, it's a very tight fit!
Below are some pictures of the results. We still have to finish the clutch pedal since it got way too hot in AZ today! Next on the list is to get the valve covers, intake manifold, and turbo housing powder coated, order the rest of the engine lines, and finish the clutch pedal this next weekend.
Today was spent installing the camshafts and brake/clutch pedals in the car. Unfortunately, the pedals I took a gamble on Ebay turned out to be paper weights. They were too big and had a tough time sitting in the cylinder head. Rather than force them and risk warping the head or bending some valves, we installed the stock ones.
The good news is that we got the master cylinder and brake pedal fully installed! The brake pedal was the biggest PITA I've faced in this build so far and I suggest having someone with small hands help you. Some tips I have is that you have to remove the the two computers that on top and to the side of the pedal. Without doing this, you will NOT have room to remove and reinstall the top bolt for the pedal. Even then, it's a very tight fit!
Below are some pictures of the results. We still have to finish the clutch pedal since it got way too hot in AZ today! Next on the list is to get the valve covers, intake manifold, and turbo housing powder coated, order the rest of the engine lines, and finish the clutch pedal this next weekend.
#156
Just got my valve covers, intake manifold, and turbo housing back from Desert Powder Coating and they turned out great! They couldn't do the throttle body since some of the pieces would have melted in the oven but I plan on perhaps polishing it at a machine shop or just cleaning it real well:
#157
Alright so it's been a while but wanted to give you guys an update on the build. I purchased a set of RX7 550cc injectors from an FD. What sucks is that I got my Aristo 440cc cleaned the day before lol but those will be going up for sale soon. Also picked up a HX35 12cm housing for my H1C for $50 locally so that should help the lagging issue. Purchased all of my oil feed and drain lines from Driftmotion and also have all of the clutch parts. Oh yeah got a Soarer ECU and a driveshaft from an MKIII so I practically have all of my parts!
However, I need some help from my Holset guys! What do I do with the actuator flap in the inside of the turbo and how did you guys run an external wastegate setup on your turbo? The lines are too big and hit the turbo so am ok to grind off a little to make it fit?
However, I need some help from my Holset guys! What do I do with the actuator flap in the inside of the turbo and how did you guys run an external wastegate setup on your turbo? The lines are too big and hit the turbo so am ok to grind off a little to make it fit?
#159
So it turns out I got the wrong fittings but the correct one also will have clearance issues. I'm going to go with a Dodge Cummins drain pipe like the user Megamax did for his build. Also just received my FD RX7 550cc high impedance injectors. I just have to either find a larger o-ring or change the pintle caps to get them to plug in to my fuel rail.
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pro...4v-trucks.html
http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-pro...4v-trucks.html
#160
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where did u get the fittings from? also, it looks like your going to run a 90* fitting? i wouldnt do that, you want nice smooth downward flow for the oil drain. 45* degree fitting would be better and will probably fit better
Last edited by wirelesstj; 11-25-14 at 02:48 PM.
#161
I bought them from Driftmoition but I ordered the wrong ones. I actually ordered a Dodge Holset one and am using that instead. I believe another member did the same thing and that's where I got the idea from.
As far as an update goes, I'm getting my transmission housing extended tomorrow locally by Future Fabrication. I installed the injectors from the RX7 and the rest of the stuff is ready to go. I'm going to hopefully have all of it in by Spring Break.
As far as an update goes, I'm getting my transmission housing extended tomorrow locally by Future Fabrication. I installed the injectors from the RX7 and the rest of the stuff is ready to go. I'm going to hopefully have all of it in by Spring Break.
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