I am getting ready to start on my stereo project in my 95 GS300 executive edition.. i read in a thread here about having to upgrade the wiring if someone goes over 1000 watts.... im wanting to put about 5000 watts total in my car... can someone let me in on why i would need to upgrade the electrical to do this?.... PEACE ...

 

Well you would have to at least upgrade the power wire. Stock wire is only 18 guage wire.

 

Im running 1000rms fine using 4guage wire and a kinetic battery. 5000 watts on any car is a serious power load, your probably going to need over 300amps of current to drive whatever have hooked up continously even with if you had a solid 14volt difference in your system.

 

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Above is the video of my GS 300 with around 1400 watts


Prepare to spend some $ going over 1000 watts. To put it briefly I have a JL 1000/v2 and a yellow top optima under the hood. I upgraded to all 0 gauge wiring and have a capacitor.
The stock electrical cant handle much more then a 1000watts. My car is begging for a larger alternator and another yellow top in the trunk. When I really crank the stereo the amp simply shuts off. Make sure you get an efficient amp that will cut off before hurting itself or your car. What's surprising is I don't get a ton of dimming unless the music is up crazy loud, and you turn n the inside lights or sun visors lights. When I do the inside lights flicker a little bit, but for the most part the headlights don't flicker if so it's very minimal.

Bottomline 5000 watts will require at least a 200 amp alternator. More then likely 250. At least 2 deep cycle batteries and 0 gauge wiring throughout your entire car. I'm $2000 deep and still need a bigger alternator and a kinetik battery.

 

thanks for all the replies... what im looking at doing is 5.25 components in the front and rear doors, then a 3 way component on the rear deck, with the fronts and rears running off of two seperate amps, then i want to put 2 high powered 12's in the trunk, and i mean FI BTL, Orion HCCAs or Soundstream XXX... those subs need a minimum of 2000 watts each to do anything for real..... also considering doing a single sub setup with a single 15 but i would rather have the stereo VS mono setup...

since im going to do this i plan on doing it right by starting off with upgrading the electrical system first by getting a bigger alternator and some bomb batteries... from there ill get a deck and then my front and rear stages and save the subs and amps for last.... i prolly wont even install from the deck on until i have everything.... but i will eventually start a thread and let you all see how it goes... PEACE ...

 

subs in general should be run in mono or you can bump into phase cancellation issues. i'm running 3 amps totaling up to 2800 watts with 0 gauge wire w/ an optima yellow top up front and a 800 amp capcel in the back and i still want to beef it up more so it's a good constant supply of power. i'll more than likely be upgrading my alternator and adding another capcel.

 

Keep us posted!

 

Your system is backwards haha. All high end amps and speakers and lacking on electrical. Anyways Alternator is a first if you plan on exceeding a 50amp load on your stock system this includes the big 3 and proper fusing to match. Once your at this stage I suggest kinetic powercell over upgrading stock battery to yellowtop since a power source just for the amp> upgrading main battery. keep in mind even though you are running a yellow top its still 8-12 feet away from where in needs to be (trunk) and voltage drop is bound to happen along the way.

 

The subwoofer I have drinks power in a way I never imagined. I still have one more exactly the same to put in. Any alternator recommendations? I've seen a few online, mostly on eBay. But don't want to bite the bullet until I'm certain. I'm planning on getting the Rockford Fosgate 2500 once my electrical is proper.

 

Subwoofers have absolutely nothing to do with current draw. With my 3500 watt amp, I'm running 50' of 1/0 wiring and 3 huge batteries, plus a 220amp alternator

Mechman, Singer Alternators, and Tenny Alternators are all great companies

 

[QUOTE=doug118;7592717]Subwoofers have absolutely nothing to do with current draw.

I'm not going to argue but that's simply not true at all. The driver receiving the power has nothing to do with current draw? Think about what your saying

 

Well for one a stock alternator only produces 100 amps max, so your already overloading when your bumping on the freeway at rms drawing 90 amps worth of current with just a 1000w amp. Personally my opinion for you is to keep your nice jl equipment and improve your setup which will result in better sq and db gain. I would reccommend a 200 amp alternator, 0 guage power connections (big3 plus amp). and since your amp is still probably around 10 ft away from battery a kinetik power cell tokeep a nice 14v difference for your amp. I reccomend kinetik because its simplicity (no isolater needed) and theyre cheapest model will still provide more juice than any those 40 dollar ebay caps i see people run. Now youve properly setup your system so you can turn it up all they way without cutting out and still want more? Instead of forking out more money for 2500w amp, focus on eliminating all your vibrations (each rattle takes away 1-3db off your potential compared to a deadened environment). I can't stress how much sound deadening the car drastically improves the quality of the sound created in it. And if you want to make life easier I ordered all my wires off ebay. Make sure your wires are properly FUSED(i stay awainternay from breakers) And any 200amp reman alternator should work, the one i use has an internal regulator that cranks up the amps as needed. Be prepared to lose probably like 5-15 hp depending on how big you go.