Toyboxx's Build Thread
#106
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
but instead of doing all that fiddling, you can just put a breather filter on the end of the IACV, no hoses needed at all. only downside is its a bit louder, but most like that.
The IACV has the big air inlet pipe that you were pointing to.
It also has 2 smaller pipes that is where coolant runs in and out of the IACV.
It basically uses the coolant to stabilize the idle air temp, which is supossed to result in a more stable idle. It also runs through your throttle body, to do the same thing and keep the throttle from sticking, which I have never heard of a single case where that occurs. most remove these lines and block the coolant hoses either at the block, at the pipe itself, or just remove those hoses, and the 2 you are left with you connect together with another hose which is the bypass method.
*edit* I just figured out what you are talking about, there is another little pipe attached to the large pipe I didn't notice before.
Trace it back and see where it goes, its either a vac line coming off the intake, or its a coolant line going to the other side.
you can replace that hardpipe, with the same kind of line thats feeding both sides. if coolant use special coolant hoses, if vac hose, just use a vac line, but be sure that you install it so it won't get too hot from touching the engine.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-26-12 at 01:42 PM.
#107
yeah you can use a hose instead of the U shaped hardpipe to run it over to the turbo side, but make sure its the same diameter as the hose that you are pointing to, the big one that takes in air.
but instead of doing all that fiddling, you can just put a breather filter on the end of the IACV, no hoses needed at all. only downside is its a bit louder, but most like that.
The IACV has the big air inlet pipe that you were pointing to.
It also has 2 smaller pipes that is where coolant runs in and out of the IACV.
It basically uses the coolant to stabilize the idle air temp, which is supossed to result in a more stable idle. It also runs through your throttle body, to do the same thing and keep the throttle from sticking, which I have never heard of a single case where that occurs. most remove these lines and block the coolant hoses either at the block, at the pipe itself, or just remove those hoses, and the 2 you are left with you connect together with another hose which is the bypass method.
*edit* I just figured out what you are talking about, there is another little pipe attached to the large pipe I didn't notice before.
Trace it back and see where it goes, its either a vac line coming off the intake, or its a coolant line going to the other side.
you can replace that hardpipe, with the same kind of line thats feeding both sides. if coolant use special coolant hoses, if vac hose, just use a vac line, but be sure that you install it so it won't get too hot from touching the engine.
but instead of doing all that fiddling, you can just put a breather filter on the end of the IACV, no hoses needed at all. only downside is its a bit louder, but most like that.
The IACV has the big air inlet pipe that you were pointing to.
It also has 2 smaller pipes that is where coolant runs in and out of the IACV.
It basically uses the coolant to stabilize the idle air temp, which is supossed to result in a more stable idle. It also runs through your throttle body, to do the same thing and keep the throttle from sticking, which I have never heard of a single case where that occurs. most remove these lines and block the coolant hoses either at the block, at the pipe itself, or just remove those hoses, and the 2 you are left with you connect together with another hose which is the bypass method.
*edit* I just figured out what you are talking about, there is another little pipe attached to the large pipe I didn't notice before.
Trace it back and see where it goes, its either a vac line coming off the intake, or its a coolant line going to the other side.
you can replace that hardpipe, with the same kind of line thats feeding both sides. if coolant use special coolant hoses, if vac hose, just use a vac line, but be sure that you install it so it won't get too hot from touching the engine.
I'll definately take a look into that tonight. So basically I can just cap or block the coolant lines that run through the IACV & throttle body? I'll have to look into the diagram of the IACV to see which two hoses you are reffering to that I connect and bypass. I'll take more pics tonight of the back of the block.
#108
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
on the ge its just one line in and out of the throttle body. on the gte, it is like a chain that goes through the throttle body and the IACV, so try and find a diagram or just follow the lines.
I think you can plug them on a gte also, so you plug the first line in the mix, and the last line in the mix, and remove all lines inbetween and cap off empty spots. another option is just connect the in and out from tb together and the in and out from the IACV together which is the bypass mod.
I ended up blocking both hoses on mine with bolts and clamps, because to bypass on a GE means a coolant line going over the top of the engine to connect the 2, which I didn't like. on a gte it might be easier to just bypass but im sure you can find some more info on it.
I think you can plug them on a gte also, so you plug the first line in the mix, and the last line in the mix, and remove all lines inbetween and cap off empty spots. another option is just connect the in and out from tb together and the in and out from the IACV together which is the bypass mod.
I ended up blocking both hoses on mine with bolts and clamps, because to bypass on a GE means a coolant line going over the top of the engine to connect the 2, which I didn't like. on a gte it might be easier to just bypass but im sure you can find some more info on it.
#109
Hey guys
Tomorrow starts the day of the install of the motor. I'm having issues trying to install the pressure plate bolts. I know that I can do it through the inspection holes. I feel as if the bolts I got are way to small. I bought MKIII R154 PP Bolts. Been trying for the life of me to find a DIY. Anyone have any advice?
Tomorrow starts the day of the install of the motor. I'm having issues trying to install the pressure plate bolts. I know that I can do it through the inspection holes. I feel as if the bolts I got are way to small. I bought MKIII R154 PP Bolts. Been trying for the life of me to find a DIY. Anyone have any advice?
#110
****UPDATE***
So a couple of my buddies and I have been working on the car for the past couple of weeks, and this is what we have accomplished so far.
Motor is in
Tranny is in
Most of intercooler installed
Since the 1JZ had the alternator harness hacked off I followed SFrymyah thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...lick-here.html of the harness being hacked off, it was pretty straight forward. So big thanks to him for that thread.
There are still some things that I need to get figured out with some vacuum and heater hoses, but it's been quite the learning process.
So a couple of my buddies and I have been working on the car for the past couple of weeks, and this is what we have accomplished so far.
Motor is in
Tranny is in
Most of intercooler installed
Since the 1JZ had the alternator harness hacked off I followed SFrymyah thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...lick-here.html of the harness being hacked off, it was pretty straight forward. So big thanks to him for that thread.
There are still some things that I need to get figured out with some vacuum and heater hoses, but it's been quite the learning process.
#113
****UPDATE**** SHES RUNNING!
Finally since July of last year I got my car running!
Only thing I have done to it would be an HKS intercooler and it's running open downpipe for now. I plan on getting a exhaust welded up here fairly soon.
Currently the only issues I'm having are the typical temp gauge pinging to hot, the tach issue, and the perma airbag light.
For the temp gauge I'm going to follow JTJerryls400 DIY Thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
Then the tach issue I know there is a video on Youtube on how to jump the resistor on the cluster, then while I'm in there I'm going to remove the AirBag bulb.
The only other issue I'm having is my battery light is on. I went to Autozone this morning to have them volt check my battery and my alt. Both checked though, so I'm kinda stumped on what this issue could be. I replaced the ALT with an OE 2nd gen GS alt since they have the oval plug like the 1JZ alt mine came with. So I don't know what I should checkout next.
Finally since July of last year I got my car running!
Only thing I have done to it would be an HKS intercooler and it's running open downpipe for now. I plan on getting a exhaust welded up here fairly soon.
Currently the only issues I'm having are the typical temp gauge pinging to hot, the tach issue, and the perma airbag light.
For the temp gauge I'm going to follow JTJerryls400 DIY Thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...with-pics.html
Then the tach issue I know there is a video on Youtube on how to jump the resistor on the cluster, then while I'm in there I'm going to remove the AirBag bulb.
The only other issue I'm having is my battery light is on. I went to Autozone this morning to have them volt check my battery and my alt. Both checked though, so I'm kinda stumped on what this issue could be. I replaced the ALT with an OE 2nd gen GS alt since they have the oval plug like the 1JZ alt mine came with. So I don't know what I should checkout next.
#114
Hey guys,
I've been doing some searching, and I can't seem to figure out why my reverse lights don't work. I searched and only found out how to get them to work if my car came with a W58 previously. I went auto to manual.
Anyone have any input to point me in the right direction?
I've been doing some searching, and I can't seem to figure out why my reverse lights don't work. I searched and only found out how to get them to work if my car came with a W58 previously. I went auto to manual.
Anyone have any input to point me in the right direction?