ProjectGS#2: NA-T Build in 24 hours.
I think if the GS4 makes 350whp, then the GS3 will need around 375-380whp to beat it under 100mph. At lower speeds torque is more critical for acceleration, but at higher speeds HP usually wins out.
However, that's why I'm developing the Stage II kit as well with a target price of around $5500. Bumps the car up to 15psi and around 450whp range or so. And, yes it will have zero check engine lights and pass plug in obd-II emissions with flying colors
Clublexus FI registry.
However, if you're not able to moderate yourself and want to keep the pedal through the shifts plus drive the hell out of it everywhere, then I would suggest you get your transmission built. I've got those sorted out as well
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I build these transmissions myself to hold the power. I've done about 2-3 years of research into making them stronger, so I have a lot of experience in regards to this transmission.
The full built transmisison upgrade includes cryo treating all internal hard parts, machining clutch housings to accept more clutches, modify valve body and solenoids for firmer shifts, upgrade intermediate sprag or the "weak 3rd gear sprag", and replace all the seals.
For Stage II, the addtional extras are a thicker Cometic Headgasket, ARP Head Studs, 600cc Denso plug n play injectors(no need to do any soldering or cutting), and also a re-tune for the FIC. No need for a MAP sensor, the FIC has that built in. No need for a FPR, the stock regulator does just fine with this amount of boost on 600cc injectors.
Again, all of my kits will throw no check engine lights and they will pass OBD-II plug in emissions testing. I'm not cheating by cutting the CEL light signal lol. If you plug in a OBD2 scanner into the car with my kit installed, you will have zero codes showing up. The tune is so close to stock that the long term fuel trims are within -2 to +2 on both banks!
EDIT: For those of you asking if I will be offering the FIC with harness separately, then the answer is yes. However, I'd suggest against it unless you find a tuner that is VERY competent with the GS300 ECU and knows his way around OBDII systems very very well. Many people have given up using the stock ECU to tune with because of how picky and finicky it is. I have spent countless hours perfecting the tune and how its interoperability with these specific turbo kit setups. There is a reason why it doesn't throw a CEL and all fuel trims are pretty much perfect
Last edited by JeffTsai; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
Ok well i hope you have answered most of the questions these guy have. My original tranny only lasted a month after my first build due to the sprag. Now with the car pushing over 600 and built for 900+ i put a level10 kit in and shes been awesome. So the question will be with the stage 2 are you going to offer the trans upgrade or is that going to be up to the "customer". Also have you been changing out the forward piston on your trannys?? if i remember right the 2001- gs3 have a fuel cut built in so what can you do if you have one of these when upgrading the injectors
This kit does not come with a catalytic converter included in it. For my personal use, I just re-installed the factory one so I don't have to smell the unburned exhaust gases when waiting at a red light. I can weld one on before shipping out the kit for $300 if that is desired by the customer. With the cat in place it should pass the emission testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe. I will be using a California legal OBD-II compliant Magnaflow catalytic converter which is more expensive(about $250 just for the part). One thing you might want to be careful about installing the catalytic converter is that it may melt down if you are racing for an extended period of time. When you are fully loading the engine, it will run richer to support the proper combustion and also keep the engine cool. While you are running rich under full load, the catalytic converter has to finish burning the excess fuel. If you do highway pulls, with at least 30seconds cool down between each hard pull then you should be ok. The cat can handle short periods of full throttle power, but not if you are going non-stop. If you are racing around very often and nail it at every opportunity you get, then I would suggest running without a cat because you will probably melt through it.
tegrab18, the upgrade is basically up to the customer. As I said, they can make it as reliable as they drive lol.
I'll be offering fully built transmissions for around $1500 range for now(price may increase in the future). The forward piston has never experienced any failure in all of my testing. Other parts are upgraded and a the ones that need the extra strength are made out of billet steel. I was running my previous setup at around 700whp range or so and didn't really have too many issues with the transmission.
What fuel cut are you talking about? If the car is tuned properly to have no CEL then it does not throw error codes nor will it have any cut offs. The stock ECU basically thinks it's running as it should be from the factory. The 600cc injectors are running no problem right now. Still doing more testing and R&D, but it is running just fine and getting around 300 miles per tank of fuel. The only cutoff I've experienced so far is the factory speed limiter cut-off of 150mph lol.
EDIT: Regarding the transmission, I'm pretty sure you know this already but just wanted to make sure, you can't just swap in the 4spd A340E on these cars. Well yes the transmission will physically bolt up, but the stock ECU won't be able to run the transmission properly. The stock ecu is programmed to control the 5speed. The pinouts on the 4spd are slightly different and the computer will freak out if it is missing a gear lol. If you run a standalone transmission controller then you might be able to get the 4spd working, but the stock computer will definately throw a code at that point. The whole purpose of me building these kits is to have zero CEL and no errors anywhere at all.
Last edited by JeffTsai; Sep 4, 2010 at 01:19 AM.
I'll be offering fully built transmissions for around $1500 range for now(price may increase in the future). The forward piston has never experienced any failure in all of my testing. Other parts are upgraded and a the ones that need the extra strength are made out of billet steel. I was running my previous setup at around 700whp range or so and didn't really have too many issues with the transmission.
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This kit does not come with a catalytic converter included in it. For my personal use, I just re-installed the factory one so I don't have to smell the unburned exhaust gases when waiting at a red light. I can weld one on before shipping out the kit for $300 if that is desired by the customer. With the cat in place it should pass the emission testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe. I will be using a California legal OBD-II compliant Magnaflow catalytic converter which is more expensive(about $250 just for the part). One thing you might want to be careful about installing the catalytic converter is that it may melt down if you are racing for an extended period of time. When you are fully loading the engine, it will run richer to support the proper combustion and also keep the engine cool. While you are running rich under full load, the catalytic converter has to finish burning the excess fuel. If you do highway pulls, with at least 30seconds cool down between each hard pull then you should be ok. The cat can handle short periods of full throttle power, but not if you are going non-stop. If you are racing around very often and nail it at every opportunity you get, then I would suggest running without a cat because you will probably melt through it.
As for the cat, you could opt for a metallic cat. Wouldn't that hold up better on extended full throttle?


