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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #121  
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any possibility that you will sell different packages? i already have a turbo and manifold setup. more interested in the fic w/ harness.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:23 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
I would say that if you raced a gs4, the gs3 with this turbo kit will beat it after 60 mph. Maybe not as fast off the line, but when the turbo kicks in it definitely has more kick than a gs4. Keep in mind that's just the stage 1 kit at 5 psi. If you bump up the stage 1 to 8 psi, then it will eat the gs4 alive lol.
will it beat a lightly boosted gs4 on the road?...@under 100mph.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:39 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by sam430
will it beat a lightly boosted gs4 on the road?...@under 100mph.
Lightly boosted GS4? It just depends on the power the GS4 is putting down. I mean, there are a lot of factors that can go into how much boost relates to how much power. The most important is engine VE. If you have cams and headwork then the engine will make more power with less boost. Also, the size of the supercharger/turbocharger will dictate how much hp per psi ratio you will get.

I think if the GS4 makes 350whp, then the GS3 will need around 375-380whp to beat it under 100mph. At lower speeds torque is more critical for acceleration, but at higher speeds HP usually wins out.

However, that's why I'm developing the Stage II kit as well with a target price of around $5500. Bumps the car up to 15psi and around 450whp range or so. And, yes it will have zero check engine lights and pass plug in obd-II emissions with flying colors
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:10 PM
  #124  
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Jeff - You would still keep the stock tranny with the Stage 2, correct? And for those that wanted to start getting parts slowly, do you think you could sell the FIC w/harness and the O2 simulator alone so it won't throw a code?
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #125  
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with jeffs "stage 2" kit you can not use the factory transmission. The factory trannys will hold 400WHP max and at the rating your cutting the life of the tranny by more than half. You will need at min. a valve body upgrade or a BL transmission or titan or whoever you prefer to have a fully built Trans.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by tegrab18
with jeffs "stage 2" kit you can not use the factory transmission. The factory trannys will hold 400WHP max and at the rating your cutting the life of the tranny by more than half. You will need at min. a valve body upgrade or a BL transmission or titan or whoever you prefer to have a fully built Trans.
Is there a solution for this? Jeff, how's your sprag comming along?

Clublexus FI registry.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #127  
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Ok, I'll explain for a second. How well a transmission will hold up really just depends on how good your self control is lol. What really kills the transmission is holding full boost through a shift. I've actually run cars with around 400-500hp through the stock transmission with nothing more than a transmission cooler. If you can do this simple procedure then your stock transmission will last under boost. Full throttle then boost builds, rev to redline, let off gas pedal for 1-2 seconds till the trans shifts to the next gear, get back on it again. If you can follow those simple directions and let off 1-2 sec between shifts then you don't have to spend the extra money to get your transmission built. Of course at 400-500hp you are still stressing the transmission over its original designed intent. Obviously it will not last as long as a car at stock power, but how long it lasts is really up to you. If you cruise 90-95% of the time and just open it up on the highway occasionally, then the trans may last just as long as stock.

However, if you're not able to moderate yourself and want to keep the pedal through the shifts plus drive the hell out of it everywhere, then I would suggest you get your transmission built. I've got those sorted out as well
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #128  
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solutions i listed at the very last few sentences. I know you can get the upgraded valve bodies from SRT and level10. These are known upgrades. Also a BL tranny or titan trans. The trannys are extremely weak when it comes to the forward piston and the second gear sprag. The second gear sprag is the #1 failure in boosted applications. I have a 01 gs300 NA-T with a built motor with all supra TT internals. anyone on here thinking about going turbo there are no words for it. how can you beat a smooth ride but under WOT your put in your seat like a Viper. Bad analogy but you get the idea. Jeff good work on the custom Fabs you got going. Heres a question also. With your "stage 2" im sure these guys want to know if a head gasket is going to be included and what about a FPR,Injectors, Map sensor..... Also for all the guys out there, your stock rods should be replaced. They have been pushed to 600WHP but recommend not to exceed 400WHP. @ 400 they tend to snap and next thing you know your replace a block too because it went thru
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 02:09 PM
  #129  
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Have you messed with your 2nd gen GS300 transmission? It's a 5spd A650E auto. BoostLogic and Titan don't built these units, they work on A340E 4spd transmissions only. I've been hearing news that they "may" start building the 5 spd but it's not been confirmed yet.

I build these transmissions myself to hold the power. I've done about 2-3 years of research into making them stronger, so I have a lot of experience in regards to this transmission.

The full built transmisison upgrade includes cryo treating all internal hard parts, machining clutch housings to accept more clutches, modify valve body and solenoids for firmer shifts, upgrade intermediate sprag or the "weak 3rd gear sprag", and replace all the seals.

For Stage II, the addtional extras are a thicker Cometic Headgasket, ARP Head Studs, 600cc Denso plug n play injectors(no need to do any soldering or cutting), and also a re-tune for the FIC. No need for a MAP sensor, the FIC has that built in. No need for a FPR, the stock regulator does just fine with this amount of boost on 600cc injectors.

Again, all of my kits will throw no check engine lights and they will pass OBD-II plug in emissions testing. I'm not cheating by cutting the CEL light signal lol. If you plug in a OBD2 scanner into the car with my kit installed, you will have zero codes showing up. The tune is so close to stock that the long term fuel trims are within -2 to +2 on both banks!

EDIT: For those of you asking if I will be offering the FIC with harness separately, then the answer is yes. However, I'd suggest against it unless you find a tuner that is VERY competent with the GS300 ECU and knows his way around OBDII systems very very well. Many people have given up using the stock ECU to tune with because of how picky and finicky it is. I have spent countless hours perfecting the tune and how its interoperability with these specific turbo kit setups. There is a reason why it doesn't throw a CEL and all fuel trims are pretty much perfect

Last edited by JeffTsai; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 02:21 PM
  #130  
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Jeff you say that with your kit the car will be emissions compliant. But I have noticed that my car does not have the 3rd cat (only 2 cats in the headers). I am not sure because it is a European GS though. In my case I would need to get a cat also.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 02:40 PM
  #131  
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so...soon we'll be seeing a bunch of your clones terrorizing the road? lol, love the 8, but so tempted.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 03:09 PM
  #132  
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yes i have messed with the transmission. Also my fault for saying second gear sprag instead of 3rd.Technically its the 2nd/3rd sprag. Also titan is in the process of developing the tranny for our vehicles. I was simply saying you could do a A340E swap on these cars with the adapter plate if thats the preferred route. also i know these are a 5 speed (A650E) i do drive one lol.
Ok well i hope you have answered most of the questions these guy have. My original tranny only lasted a month after my first build due to the sprag. Now with the car pushing over 600 and built for 900+ i put a level10 kit in and shes been awesome. So the question will be with the stage 2 are you going to offer the trans upgrade or is that going to be up to the "customer". Also have you been changing out the forward piston on your trannys?? if i remember right the 2001- gs3 have a fuel cut built in so what can you do if you have one of these when upgrading the injectors
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 01:08 AM
  #133  
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YviE, the stock ecu is wired up with simulators to pass OBD-II plug in emissions testing due to the missing cats. This means it will pass the plug in computer test because the stock ECU will not throw any error codes. In the state I live in, all that is required to pass is to plug the diagnostic computer to the car. If the car has no error codes then it passes, they do not do any further visual or physical inspection for the emissions system. The car may not pass if your country or city requires you to do emissions testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe.

This kit does not come with a catalytic converter included in it. For my personal use, I just re-installed the factory one so I don't have to smell the unburned exhaust gases when waiting at a red light. I can weld one on before shipping out the kit for $300 if that is desired by the customer. With the cat in place it should pass the emission testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe. I will be using a California legal OBD-II compliant Magnaflow catalytic converter which is more expensive(about $250 just for the part). One thing you might want to be careful about installing the catalytic converter is that it may melt down if you are racing for an extended period of time. When you are fully loading the engine, it will run richer to support the proper combustion and also keep the engine cool. While you are running rich under full load, the catalytic converter has to finish burning the excess fuel. If you do highway pulls, with at least 30seconds cool down between each hard pull then you should be ok. The cat can handle short periods of full throttle power, but not if you are going non-stop. If you are racing around very often and nail it at every opportunity you get, then I would suggest running without a cat because you will probably melt through it.

tegrab18, the upgrade is basically up to the customer. As I said, they can make it as reliable as they drive lol.

I'll be offering fully built transmissions for around $1500 range for now(price may increase in the future). The forward piston has never experienced any failure in all of my testing. Other parts are upgraded and a the ones that need the extra strength are made out of billet steel. I was running my previous setup at around 700whp range or so and didn't really have too many issues with the transmission.

What fuel cut are you talking about? If the car is tuned properly to have no CEL then it does not throw error codes nor will it have any cut offs. The stock ECU basically thinks it's running as it should be from the factory. The 600cc injectors are running no problem right now. Still doing more testing and R&D, but it is running just fine and getting around 300 miles per tank of fuel. The only cutoff I've experienced so far is the factory speed limiter cut-off of 150mph lol.

EDIT: Regarding the transmission, I'm pretty sure you know this already but just wanted to make sure, you can't just swap in the 4spd A340E on these cars. Well yes the transmission will physically bolt up, but the stock ECU won't be able to run the transmission properly. The stock ecu is programmed to control the 5speed. The pinouts on the 4spd are slightly different and the computer will freak out if it is missing a gear lol. If you run a standalone transmission controller then you might be able to get the 4spd working, but the stock computer will definately throw a code at that point. The whole purpose of me building these kits is to have zero CEL and no errors anywhere at all.

Last edited by JeffTsai; Sep 4, 2010 at 01:19 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 01:36 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
YviE, .....

I'll be offering fully built transmissions for around $1500 range for now(price may increase in the future). The forward piston has never experienced any failure in all of my testing. Other parts are upgraded and a the ones that need the extra strength are made out of billet steel. I was running my previous setup at around 700whp range or so and didn't really have too many issues with the transmission.


...
Would I have to do anything extra if I want to bolt the tranny to a gs430? will it work with a gs430?
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 05:01 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by JeffTsai
YviE, the stock ecu is wired up with simulators to pass OBD-II plug in emissions testing due to the missing cats. This means it will pass the plug in computer test because the stock ECU will not throw any error codes. In the state I live in, all that is required to pass is to plug the diagnostic computer to the car. If the car has no error codes then it passes, they do not do any further visual or physical inspection for the emissions system. The car may not pass if your country or city requires you to do emissions testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe.

This kit does not come with a catalytic converter included in it. For my personal use, I just re-installed the factory one so I don't have to smell the unburned exhaust gases when waiting at a red light. I can weld one on before shipping out the kit for $300 if that is desired by the customer. With the cat in place it should pass the emission testing with a sniffer in the tailpipe. I will be using a California legal OBD-II compliant Magnaflow catalytic converter which is more expensive(about $250 just for the part). One thing you might want to be careful about installing the catalytic converter is that it may melt down if you are racing for an extended period of time. When you are fully loading the engine, it will run richer to support the proper combustion and also keep the engine cool. While you are running rich under full load, the catalytic converter has to finish burning the excess fuel. If you do highway pulls, with at least 30seconds cool down between each hard pull then you should be ok. The cat can handle short periods of full throttle power, but not if you are going non-stop. If you are racing around very often and nail it at every opportunity you get, then I would suggest running without a cat because you will probably melt through it.
Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation. I mixed up the OBDII plus testing and emissions testing. I find it kind of funny they check the plug for any errors, but skip the emissions test... In France, they do not do any visual checks. They lift the hood to check the chassis number but that's it. They also check emissions with a sniffer.

As for the cat, you could opt for a metallic cat. Wouldn't that hold up better on extended full throttle?
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