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Lock/unlock issue 2004 ls430

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Old Jul 10, 2025 | 03:10 PM
  #1  
aydogdu197's Avatar
aydogdu197
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From: LA
Default Lock/unlock issue 2004 ls430

Hello everyone,

I have a 2004 Lexus LS430 with 180k miles on it. The problem with the car is that the key does not remotely lock or unlock the doors. Also, the key does not enter the lock fully (driver side door lock). It enters halfway and does not turn in any direction. This is same for the spare key, so I believe there is nothing wrong with the key. I put some WD40 into the lock but it did not help. I enter the car from the rear right door and open the other doors manually from inside. That door keeps open even though others are locked. When I push the central locking button manually inside the car on the driver's side nothing happens. But when I click this button on the front passenger side a "click" sound comes from the left right and that's it. Any ideas, solutions? what should be done to address this issue? Might that be actuator, actuator motor? or just replacing the driver side lock cylinder solves all issues?
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Old Jul 11, 2025 | 07:06 AM
  #2  
Thirteenthcor's Avatar
Thirteenthcor
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I am currently dealing both with dirty contacts inside door lock switches, and bad actuator motors in the door lock actuators.

The symptoms are that when I press a button on the armrest you get no response, and when I do get a response from a different method of locking, the lock indicators twitch and move a little or not at all.

It's about $26 bucks to replace the motors, and some sandpaper to clean the contacts inside the door switch.
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Old Jul 11, 2025 | 07:26 AM
  #3  
aydogdu197's Avatar
aydogdu197
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From: LA
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I get no response when I press the central locking button on the armrest. How are we going to clean the contact inside the door switch? Is there a video tutorial that you can share the link? Thank you.
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Old Jul 11, 2025 | 07:50 AM
  #4  
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Thirteenthcor
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No video, I just took it apart myself.

Pop out the switch assembly from the door and flip it over. You'll see two screws holding the green PCB into the back of the switch. I checked those 4 little triangular contact patches for continuity up to solder pins on the connector, and they had slow response.

Since the switches are cheap on eBay, I decided to sand down whatever that black coating is on the board to expose the copper pad underneath, and voila the switch began working again.


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