This is a rebuilding/restoration log for a car, that was on the endangered species list. My plan is to get this near OEM by replacing parts, and upgrading others, while fixing all the shenanigans. Overall goal for the car is to have a reliable highway machine that's nice enough to get attention from those that know, and subtle enough to avoid attention from those that don't.









I'm starting the thread a bit prematurely just because I need a place for a parts list that's already so long I wonder if I should just find a new car (no way).

Problem list:
Motor Mounts
Spring/shocks/coilovers
every bushing
Pass front Upper control arm
Recover center arm-rest
VSC and VSC OFF lights on
rear seat bottom
18" OEM Lexus wheels (f-sports?)
Hood repaint
Both bumpers
Door locks
P0715 (new harness plug suggested)
P0125 cut wire in O2 harness
Pass side trunk liner
front splash shield
Bluetooth adaptor
lugnuts
windshield washer 90* fitting (sprays other cars instead of going into the hood)
OEM intake
hood latch ended up being a cable.
Pass heat blend damper motor
Navigation DVD player
power trunk latch fixed itself
hood struts
driver door harness
Body ECU1
paint less dent repair
driver window regulator
driver window motor
driver window chrome trim

UPDATED PARTS LIST:

• Motor Mounts June 2023
• Genuine OEM power steering pump June 2023
• Hood cable June 2023
• Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor June 2023
• Hood struts June 2023
• OEM timing belt and water pump July 2023 209,000mi
• Genuine OEM both front lower ball joints July 2023
• OEM door lock actuators all 4 doors July 2023
• Driver door lock cable July 2023
• Driver door window motor July 2023
• Driver door regulator July 2023
• 35% Window tint July 2023
• Kenwood CarPlay radio, 4 channel Pioneer, Mono Infinity, Components, and 10” sub. September 2023.
• Genuine OEM alternator September 2023
• Tien Flex Coil-Overs October 2023
• Rear tires October 2023
• Both rear lower control arm spherical bushings October 2023
• Both front #2 arms October 2023
• Passenger hear blend servo December 2023
• Genuine OEM AC compressor June 2024
• AC Condenser June 2024
• Front and rear brake pads August 2024
• Megan adjustable rear toe arms August 2024
• Megan adjustable rear lower arms August 2024
• SPC adjustable front upper arms August 2024
• Front tires August 2024
• Front inner and outer tierods August 2024
• Front steering boot both sides August 2024

Spare:

2 Front upper control arms

How did this happen:
I live in a small market and I contracted with a dealer to meet me half-way to buy this "retail condition" car. As I inspected the car I realized it was more like "wholesale condition." He already had some of my money and we negotiated an ok price given what I could tell was wrong with the car. The owner seemed to have been open about the condition. However, on the way home I discovered there was tape on the CEL (darn it that's the oldest trick in the book and I even had a scanner with me WTH). At this point I'm uncovering how much he lied about and concealed with the intention of scamming me. I may be going to small-claims court, if people have advice.

it had the ugliest wheels possible but he kept them and reduced the price.




Other related info about me:
This is my 4th Lexus; 99 LS400 (RIP), 05 GX470, 08 ISF (SOLD).
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...e-h-and-r.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ing-rates.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...is350-isf.html

 

New right front upper control arm from Import Direct via O’Reilly. Lifetime warranty, part in stock $164.Greaseable. 209,000mi. The castle nut was a size bigger.
I used half a spring compressor to remove the rear bolt to spring interference.






got through safety inspection. With this, but the hood latch broke. This car keeps giving.

 

I hope I solved the P0715. The transmission input speed sensor connector was fragged and wasn’t making a good connection. I didn’t go for a long test drive, but that was a sure problem.

 

The level of subtle scam has earned this cars name Scamantha. Or Scammie.

it just keeps giving.

 

Previous owner really said "screw it" huh

 

this is the joke I was looking for. Thank you.

 

I was able to get the VSC and VSC OFF light off. Thanks to this YouTuber

however I wasn’t able to get the Masonic technique to work.
I also had trouble with Techstream. I wasn’t able to get the codes out of the ABS system.

I was able to follow:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...echstream.html

So basically the VSC system needed a reset and recalibration which I was able to do in Techstream.

 

I decided it would try to figure out the Navigation DVD message by looking at the DVD drive and found it had been bouncing around not bolted down.


I scrounged up some screws and got 3 in place when I dropped one. I went fishing for the lost bolt and found all the originals hanging out with some bird shot.


I decided I would clean the trunk to look for other treasure and I found the cover for the DVD opening.

I also discovered the sub had some interesting modifications.


I managed to pull all of this out of the sub. Like a pack rat lived in the sub.


I also replaced the worn shift ****. It’s not a bad match, but the OEM is better finished.



Last update. It’s not all busted. I was able to peel this pre purchase cover off.

 

I may have to stop documenting all the missing and loose bolts so that I have time to work on this.
for now thought, I’m working on doing motor mounts.

the AC compressor had a loose bolt.



also, the air box was missing the rubber around the coupler. Also, the box inside was filthy.

 

The AC compressor bolt was actually cross threaded.

The passenger motor mount was collapsed and also missing the plate that goes between the mount and the motor. So I have to wait for the eBay seller to send the used setup just so I can get the plate and heat shield. At this rate it will be another couple of weeks before I can drive it.

On the bright side, I found a mess in the wire loom behind the PS pump and alternator. I think the Bank 1 sensor 1 O2 wire is in this mess and it might be related to my P0125.

 

Neat build, thanks for sharing.

If those upper control arms last longer than 30,000 miles, I’ll be impressed!

 

I agree it’s a gamble. I live 5 miles from the O’Reilly Headquarters, so I can get this part any day of the week with a lifetime warranty. Other issues dominate my attention.

Newest developments:
I started changing the motor mounts about 2 weeks ago and it’s been a long slog since.

Clearly there WAS a motor swap. Given the half hearted attempt to put things back like factory I have to assume zero fs were given. I found two SAE bolts going into the block. On the AC it was just started and no damage was done. I can’t tell what happened with the alternator.

Many bolts were missing from the body, for example the bolts that mount the power steering res to the body.

There was a pretty good sized power steering leak. It turns out the fitting for the pressure hose was cross-threaded in the past and just hanging on.


I tried to buy a reman unit, but they don’t come with that fitting. I found the part number, but it was no longer available. So long story short I had to buy a new OEM pump or a used one for 1/4 the price. I got a new pump from the dealership overnight.

I did replace the supply and return PS hoses and I flushed the rack.

The motor mount on the passenger side was put in without the metal travel limit bracket or heat shield. So I ordered a used one off eBay.

There was some wire woes in the harness that connected the O2, PS, Alt, MAF.



So I fixed that up too.


The transmission cooler hardlines were all out of place like the motor was just mashed into place.

I changed the motor mounts by pulling the accessories, which all apparently weren’t put in correctly. So I guess that was a time savings.

I went on vacation in the middle of this so I had time for parts to come in. One was my navigation DVD. The head unit says “insert dvd” When I tried to insert the DVD the drive was non responsive. It was just sitting the in trunk and now I’m noticing someone tried to pry the face off or something. So I’ll fiddle with that or just end up with a double din with CarPlay

It’s a little ridiculous to do it, but I’m slowly trying to get little plugs and clips replaced. Like the one in the subframe that covers the motor mount nuts.




I traced and tested all of the O2 wires on the passenger side when I built that loom back, but the P0125 is still happening. I’ve got a plan for that, but it’s been the most challenging to figure out.

The intake was missing the rubber boot that connects to the throttle body.


I decided to try the DIY tube since that would give me more room under the hood and be cheaper than buying another whole intake.




While changing that I was able to replace all the hoses including the PCV hose that was actually a boot for a spark plug.





That’s it for now. I’ve been looking for wheels in my town and not really had any success and I’m going to redo the suspension after I get the 0125 figured out.

 

I finally had the will to wash the stink off it.






The paint is ok on the sides, but the hood has failed and the roof is failing. It’s funny too because in the midst of that someone attacked the car with a rotary buffer and there is severe swirling on the sides.

I’m thinking about repainting the hood, but a wrap would be a good fit for this car. There is evidence of hail damage on one door, but it’s probably a kid with a bad attitude since the roof has no damage.

I’ve never seen such a botched touch up job.

 

I managed to remove the dazzle, other than some hardened glue.



I also diagnosed the hood latch as a cable problem. So that’s on the way too. Unfortunately I was in the proses of diagnosing the P0125 when I found out the hood wouldn’t shut.

I also managed to put some paint on a nasty grill.

 

Messing with the body module in Techstream to figure out a rear window issue and the trunk switch button not working… the trunk power switch magically started working.

While waiting for the software to catch up I was loading the CD changer and found this…


Maybe I’ll post a review after I finish puking.

The rear windows are acting very strange.

At the driver door can roll the rear windows down without having a key in the car. They always have power. Strangely, auto does not work unless the key is in the ignition. The switches in the rear door do not do this.

Maybe some remote start or alarm is installed somewhere…. Maybe the a power relay is sticking…. Very weird.

here’s a similar issue with no resolution. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-question.html