Is there any chemical available to remove this? Don't know what exactly it is cause It's been on the car since I purchased it, maybe sap stains. I've tried buffering it off with a PC, lake country white and orange dimpled pads and M205, M105 compounds with no luck. I would like to avoid wet sanding but, if there isn't any alternative, I'll go with that. I appreciate any advice.

 

Some of it looks like water spot etching. I'd consider NOT removing all of it, if the M105 couldn't get rid of it, but just remove enough so you can live with it. It may be pretty deep, and you may need to remove a lot of clearcoat to completely get rid of it.

That was the case with my wife's car. I can still see it with a light and my nose 6" from the paint, but in daylight, two feet away, it looks perfect.

 

The photo is not the best... can you take a clearer photo?

M105/205 can handle quite a lot of correction... especially on Lexus black paint.

Can you describe your technique when using these products? ie amount of product used, arm speed, machine speed, downward pressure, working area, etc.

Thanks
-Zach

 

I have similar marks on my gray 07 LS460, also purchased this way. I'm hoping they will come off one way or another without damaging the paint and eager to hear what the experts have to say.

 

Please provide pictures of the paint in different angles and lighting.

 

Here is a much better pic. My technique was a mixture of different attempts like; 105/205 with orange or white pads on an angle at 3000 rpm-5000rpm. The work was done in my garage with a 60°/65° and low humidity. I put light pressure when buffering on a angle, more when working the pad flat. I took it to a detailing shop just for a quote today and the dude said it's deep water etching. But, didn't mention how they can go about fixing it. .

 

This is similar to the water edging I have dealt with on the 13 year old Camry that has rain water edging.
Here is my suggestion: Soften the water spots with Carpro Spotless first. Clay bar after and then do a M105 on Orange pads with medium pressure on 4-6 section passes. It worked for me and hope it will for you.

 

Thanks. I'm gonna give your recommendation a shot. I also seen some videos where white vinegar was poured on the damaged surface, tried it, doesn't work. So I'm hoping this works or I just may order a rotory buffer with a wool pad.

 

Spotless, or other water spot removers, and clay bars will have no effect on etching.

In order to remove a defect, you must first understand what it is. A water spot is a mineral deposit that sits above the surface of the paint. Water spot removers work to react with these minerals to remove the deposit.

Yep, this is what needs to be done for etching...


If the minerals have sat for too long, they will begin to etch into the paint causing damage below the surface of the paint. In order to remove below surface defects, an abrasive such as sand paper, cutting compound, or polish must be used depending on the severity of the etching.

-Zach

 

I tried the m105 with orange pad and m205 with orange as well. It didn't remove the etching and after close examination it looks to be deep in the clear coat. Now, I never tried wet sanding anything but the headlights. My concern is sanding too much. If i did, would the PC bring the shine back, or should I just buy a rotary with a wool?

 

A porter cable, M105, and cutting pad can certainly remove wet sanding marks. I've removed 1500 grit marks with a PC and M105 in the past.

Your real concern should be with compromising the clear coat. Paint is extremely thin these days, and without a paint thickness gauge, I personally wouldn't attempt any sanding... unless of course you already consider the panel ruined and wouldn't mind having it repainted if you cannot repair it on your own.