i got a set of oxidized work meisters. i was wondering whats the best way to clean them up?
heres some pics

a lot of it is on the sides of the faces and near the lug holes.


theres also some near the valve stems and in the cracks where the face meets the barrel.


heres the back of the wheel.


all of them are pretty much like this.

 

Looks like you are going to have to strip the wheels and repolish, reclear....

 

damn that looks pretty bad.

 

Have you tried washing them yet?

It looks bad in the picture, but without knowing if you tried washing them, it could just be winter salt on top of the polished finish.

 

you are gonna have to spend hours polishing the. After that is all done you are probably going to have to get them refinished.

Take a good metal polish and start going to work...
Thats about all I got.

 

no just got them thursday and been sitting in my room. never would of thought itd be salt as long beach dont got to deal with it lol ill try washing them though. either way, i still might have to repolish. was just hoping for a less fun way haha

also, i want to widen a pair, so does anyone have any good recommendations in socal?
i emailed wheelflip for a quote but they havent gotten back to me.

 

Needs to be refinished.

 

Had the same issue, except i refinished the lips myself but my faces had the corrosion around the lug nut holes, only option is refinishing.

 

you couldnt get the stuff around the lug holes? should i be able to do it myself? never polished wheels before btw. from what i read up on, you strip the clear coat, wetsand, polish, and finish off with some clear coat? can the polishing pads (not sure of the words lol) get in the little areas between the face and barrel?

 

+1 for those wheels not being able to be fixed without taking the existing, deteriorating clear coat off.

you are correct, strip the clear coat, and wet sand with finer and finer gradients of sand paper.
you dont have to clear coat in the end, but it would definitely help.
you cant use any clearcoat as clear coat does not adhere easily/readily to bare metal.
before you lay the clearcoat you want to make sure the surface is clean (soap/water,) and then wipe it with acetone/alcohol.

it will be hard to get in between the face/barrel.

to disassemble the wheels, cut the silicone sealer away from between the inner/outer barel,
and disassemble the nut/bolt. the bolt/screw cant be removed by a regular 6/12 sided socket/wrench, you need to get the special one. i was able to find one at lowes. (12mm star i believe.)

look up the torque spec and reassemble and torque all the bolts in a star pattern.
i think the torque is about 20ish ft lbs. but dont take my word for it, look it up.

reseal the inner/outer barrel with ge 2 silicone, also available at lowes/home depot.

 

These are 2 piece. Isnt it welded haha? Is it possible to get in there without taking it apart?

 

damn it. i was so focused on helping that i didnt notice they were 2 piece and without bolts! aha
i was referencing my vsxxs sorry aha.

ok well in that case i would just fold the sand paper in half and use that to get in that tight area.

 

You could try http://www.chemicalguys.com/Metal_sh...spi_102_16.htm

 

Looks like Ian's wheels before he got rid of his red IS. We ultimately decided to strip the clear with aircraft paint stripper and then polish them up by hand. Took a few hours but they looked decent after. This is assuming that your wheels have cracked clear on them of course