What am I doing wrong?
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Lexus Test Driver
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From: Chicago, IL
So today I tried buffing out my car with Meguiars M105 and M205. I used a yellow pad and an orange Lake Country pad with it. The polisher I have is a Porter Cable 7424XP. I used it on speed 6 with a yellow pad and it got almost all defects out of my black paint. I tried slower speeds but it didn't get enough out. Then I used the white pad with M205 to polish it at speed 4. It looked good inside my garage but when I drove outside into sunlight, I'm seeing "holorgrams" or huge swirls that circle a whole panel. What did I do wrong?
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
So today I tried buffing out my car with Meguiars M105 and M205. I used a yellow pad and an orange Lake Country pad with it. The polisher I have is a Porter Cable 7424XP. I used it on speed 6 with a yellow pad and it got almost all defects out of my black paint. I tried slower speeds but it didn't get enough out. Then I used the white pad with M205 to polish it at speed 4. It looked good inside my garage but when I drove outside into sunlight, I'm seeing "holorgrams" or huge swirls that circle a whole panel. What did I do wrong?
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-cable-7424xp/
Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.
Greg @ DI
I've ran into the same situation with our old black Nissan frontier.. I created light scratches and some Holograms. Believe me i wasn't happy after all the time i spent on the Vehicle.. Since then we have a newer black truck and haven't had the time to do a full detail yet and Greg has answered tons of email from me and bought new pads and products.
I haven't had the time but after watching some videos on autogeek and detailedimage its best to work in a small section to find your technique and that will set the pace for the rest of the vehicle..
On my new car since its new i did everything my hand. Optimim polyseal, blackfire sealant, poorboys paste wax..
I haven't had the time but after watching some videos on autogeek and detailedimage its best to work in a small section to find your technique and that will set the pace for the rest of the vehicle..
On my new car since its new i did everything my hand. Optimim polyseal, blackfire sealant, poorboys paste wax..
Technique is everything with the 105/205 series. Thats why I use 105 and follow up with something I'm fairly used to, like Menzerna 106FF to limit the micromarring you get from using 105 with a PC
#105 with the LC yellow pad is probably way too aggressive to leave your paint ready to wax. You will likely need to go over it with a less aggressive package. FWIW, #105 is just about the most aggressive compound you can buy and the LC yellow pad is a "cutting" pad.
You might now want to use a black / blue finishing pad and a finishing polish like maybe #205 to jewel the finish.
Lexus paint is on the soft side and I've been able to correct badly neglected finishes with just a white pad and #205. I prefer to use the Meguiar's microfiber cutting and finishing pad system with their M300 and M301 products. They make short work of defects and finish up beautifully. Lexus paint doesn't need that aggressive an approach, IMHO.
You might now want to use a black / blue finishing pad and a finishing polish like maybe #205 to jewel the finish.
Lexus paint is on the soft side and I've been able to correct badly neglected finishes with just a white pad and #205. I prefer to use the Meguiar's microfiber cutting and finishing pad system with their M300 and M301 products. They make short work of defects and finish up beautifully. Lexus paint doesn't need that aggressive an approach, IMHO.
So today I tried buffing out my car with Meguiars M105 and M205. I used a yellow pad and an orange Lake Country pad with it. The polisher I have is a Porter Cable 7424XP. I used it on speed 6 with a yellow pad and it got almost all defects out of my black paint. I tried slower speeds but it didn't get enough out. Then I used the white pad with M205 to polish it at speed 4. It looked good inside my garage but when I drove outside into sunlight, I'm seeing "holorgrams" or huge swirls that circle a whole panel. What did I do wrong?
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
I used light pressure with M105 with both yellow and orange pads on different panels and different speeds and got the same issue. I already washed and clay bar the car. Is temperature an issue? It's 90 degrees out but I'm in shade inside my garage.
Not all cars need such extreme treatment.
You most likely have removed the outer finish and are looking at tracks left by the power buffer as it swirled abrasive pads and polish across the surface..
A lot of products contain abrasive that ruin the original finish, that is ok if you are restoring the paint.
If you are detailing your best route is NON ABRASIVE LIQUID products that do not have to be striped off the car or buffed on.
A professional detailer would avoid OverKill, He would know when to use abrasive polish or pads.
What cut of polish or grit of pads and when not to.
You are going to get a lot of "parroted" advice that will amount to the same logic that lead to your paint job ending up in an altered state.
Most advice comes from individuals who are pushing products, They say "If you use their products all your problems will be solved". That's how it starts.
Other advice comes from old school professionals who have mastered the skill and developed the techniques it takes to use these restoration products and tools properly.
You would be surprised how many people giving advice in these forums, don't know the difference between wax and polish.
Or
The difference between products designed for restoring and products designed for detailing.
Simple is safer.
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