Some Detail Help for Beginner
05-25-09, 03:42 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Some Detail Help for Beginner
Ok I have a dilemma on my 92 MB 500...Its Spruce green and I have been VERY neglectful with its condition in last year or 2. I am moving it back into garage and decided to give it the full detail treatment inside and out. I have a full complement of supplies and a DA PC. The condition of the the paint was very dull, rough, with alot of fine scratches and acid rain etching. There are 2 main issues that I just can't fix; fine scratches and really bad acid rain etching on hood, trunk and roof.
What I've done (all my products are Meguiars):
NOTE: This first time using this machine and the products I listed below
- I have claybared the whole car and that helped ALOT
- Then used DA Cleaner Polisher which helped a little more
- The tried the Medium Cut cleaner and didnt appear to do anything for acid and scratches
I got alot of the depth back to the color and it looks 100% better but those etchings and fine scratches which are visible under certain light are driving me crazy. The finish is smooth as glass now and unbelievable except those etchings and light scratches. PLEASE HELP!
Here are the products I have:
DA Cleaner Polish
Swirl Remover
Fine Cut Cleaner
Medium Cut Cleaner
Heavy Cut cleaner
overspray clay
pads:
Finishing Pad
Polishing Pad
Cutting Pad
So my questions are:
1. what should I be doing to remove the scratches (these are surface scratches not through the clearcoat)? I used DA Cleaner and Polish, swirl remover and nothing.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Sorry in advance for writing a novel!!!!
What I've done (all my products are Meguiars):
NOTE: This first time using this machine and the products I listed below
- I have claybared the whole car and that helped ALOT
- Then used DA Cleaner Polisher which helped a little more
- The tried the Medium Cut cleaner and didnt appear to do anything for acid and scratches
I got alot of the depth back to the color and it looks 100% better but those etchings and fine scratches which are visible under certain light are driving me crazy. The finish is smooth as glass now and unbelievable except those etchings and light scratches. PLEASE HELP!
Here are the products I have:
DA Cleaner Polish
Swirl Remover
Fine Cut Cleaner
Medium Cut Cleaner
Heavy Cut cleaner
overspray clay
pads:
Finishing Pad
Polishing Pad
Cutting Pad
So my questions are:
1. what should I be doing to remove the scratches (these are surface scratches not through the clearcoat)? I used DA Cleaner and Polish, swirl remover and nothing.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Sorry in advance for writing a novel!!!!
05-25-09, 08:52 PM
#3
1. what should I be doing to remove the scratches (these are surface scratches not through the clearcoat)? I used DA Cleaner and Polish, swirl remover and nothing.
Did you try a compound followed up by a polish? Try M105 followed by M205 and this should take care of them for you. If not some minor wetsanding may be required and can be taken out by a M105 and followed by M205.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
This is just for optimal use. You will be fine using it on your DA polisher.
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
Without pictures it is hard to tell. You can try the heavy cut on a cutting pad and if that doesnt work, you may need to step it up to Meguiar's professional line. (M105, M205, etc.) M105 is DA approved and a very great compound/polish. Breaks down quick and really improves/reduces imperfections.
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Rotary is efficient due to speed and circular motion. In the wrong hands, this could be deadly. If you are really not sure how to remove these, it is probably best to do some research and find a reputable shop / mobile detailer. You can check out autopia.org for someone local. The problem is most OTC products just dont cut it with serious paint correction. Good luck!!
Did you try a compound followed up by a polish? Try M105 followed by M205 and this should take care of them for you. If not some minor wetsanding may be required and can be taken out by a M105 and followed by M205.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
This is just for optimal use. You will be fine using it on your DA polisher.
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
Without pictures it is hard to tell. You can try the heavy cut on a cutting pad and if that doesnt work, you may need to step it up to Meguiar's professional line. (M105, M205, etc.) M105 is DA approved and a very great compound/polish. Breaks down quick and really improves/reduces imperfections.
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Rotary is efficient due to speed and circular motion. In the wrong hands, this could be deadly. If you are really not sure how to remove these, it is probably best to do some research and find a reputable shop / mobile detailer. You can check out autopia.org for someone local. The problem is most OTC products just dont cut it with serious paint correction. Good luck!!
05-26-09, 07:10 AM
#6
Based on your description of the paint I'd recommend that you use Meg's #105 to compound the paint and follow with #205 to finish. If you can't, or don't want to, order these products you could try these OTC products: Ultimate Compound followed by ScratchX or SwirlX to finish. You should be able to get these at WalMart or most auto supply stores.
Use the PC with a polishing pad and research the Kevin Brown technique. Compound or polish a cool surface and do a test spot to determine what will work for the whole car. Use a finishing pad to bring out the final wetlook gloss.
When using the PC be sure to evenly coat (prime) the pad with product and start at a slow speed (2-3) to spread the product over a 2' x 2' area then run the PC up to speed 5 or 6 and polish. Move the pad slowly and apply moderately heavy pressure to begin the process and relax the pressure after a minute or two. If the pad stops rotating you have applied too much pressure. Don't polish the product until it is dry. If it starts to dust stop and wipe it off and repeat. After couple of passes, you need to clean the pad by using a clean 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Apply the pad to the folded towel and turn on the PC (speed 2-3). Re-prime the pad and continue on. Failure to clean the pad frequently will cause a marked reduction in it's ability to remove marring.
Using Medium Cut or Heavy Cut with a PC is not recommended as the product doesn't break down with a PC and as such leave behind hazing or pigtail markings.
Use the PC with a polishing pad and research the Kevin Brown technique. Compound or polish a cool surface and do a test spot to determine what will work for the whole car. Use a finishing pad to bring out the final wetlook gloss.
When using the PC be sure to evenly coat (prime) the pad with product and start at a slow speed (2-3) to spread the product over a 2' x 2' area then run the PC up to speed 5 or 6 and polish. Move the pad slowly and apply moderately heavy pressure to begin the process and relax the pressure after a minute or two. If the pad stops rotating you have applied too much pressure. Don't polish the product until it is dry. If it starts to dust stop and wipe it off and repeat. After couple of passes, you need to clean the pad by using a clean 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Apply the pad to the folded towel and turn on the PC (speed 2-3). Re-prime the pad and continue on. Failure to clean the pad frequently will cause a marked reduction in it's ability to remove marring.
Using Medium Cut or Heavy Cut with a PC is not recommended as the product doesn't break down with a PC and as such leave behind hazing or pigtail markings.
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05-26-09, 12:51 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Based on your description of the paint I'd recommend that you use Meg's #105 to compound the paint and follow with #205 to finish. If you can't, or don't want to, order these products you could try these OTC products: Ultimate Compound followed by ScratchX or SwirlX to finish. You should be able to get these at WalMart or most auto supply stores.
Use the PC with a polishing pad and research the Kevin Brown technique. Compound or polish a cool surface and do a test spot to determine what will work for the whole car. Use a finishing pad to bring out the final wetlook gloss.
When using the PC be sure to evenly coat (prime) the pad with product and start at a slow speed (2-3) to spread the product over a 2' x 2' area then run the PC up to speed 5 or 6 and polish. Move the pad slowly and apply moderately heavy pressure to begin the process and relax the pressure after a minute or two. If the pad stops rotating you have applied too much pressure. Don't polish the product until it is dry. If it starts to dust stop and wipe it off and repeat. After couple of passes, you need to clean the pad by using a clean 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Apply the pad to the folded towel and turn on the PC (speed 2-3). Re-prime the pad and continue on. Failure to clean the pad frequently will cause a marked reduction in it's ability to remove marring.
Using Medium Cut or Heavy Cut with a PC is not recommended as the product doesn't break down with a PC and as such leave behind hazing or pigtail markings.
Use the PC with a polishing pad and research the Kevin Brown technique. Compound or polish a cool surface and do a test spot to determine what will work for the whole car. Use a finishing pad to bring out the final wetlook gloss.
When using the PC be sure to evenly coat (prime) the pad with product and start at a slow speed (2-3) to spread the product over a 2' x 2' area then run the PC up to speed 5 or 6 and polish. Move the pad slowly and apply moderately heavy pressure to begin the process and relax the pressure after a minute or two. If the pad stops rotating you have applied too much pressure. Don't polish the product until it is dry. If it starts to dust stop and wipe it off and repeat. After couple of passes, you need to clean the pad by using a clean 100% cotton terry cloth towel. Apply the pad to the folded towel and turn on the PC (speed 2-3). Re-prime the pad and continue on. Failure to clean the pad frequently will cause a marked reduction in it's ability to remove marring.
Using Medium Cut or Heavy Cut with a PC is not recommended as the product doesn't break down with a PC and as such leave behind hazing or pigtail markings.
Is acid rain just a lost cause and truly only do "as best you can" cuz it never will truly go away?
05-26-09, 03:16 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
1. what should I be doing to remove the scratches (these are surface scratches not through the clearcoat)? I used DA Cleaner and Polish, swirl remover and nothing.
Did you try a compound followed up by a polish? Try M105 followed by M205 and this should take care of them for you. If not some minor wetsanding may be required and can be taken out by a M105 and followed by M205.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
This is just for optimal use. You will be fine using it on your DA polisher.
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
Without pictures it is hard to tell. You can try the heavy cut on a cutting pad and if that doesnt work, you may need to step it up to Meguiar's professional line. (M105, M205, etc.) M105 is DA approved and a very great compound/polish. Breaks down quick and really improves/reduces imperfections.
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Rotary is efficient due to speed and circular motion. In the wrong hands, this could be deadly. If you are really not sure how to remove these, it is probably best to do some research and find a reputable shop / mobile detailer. You can check out autopia.org for someone local. The problem is most OTC products just dont cut it with serious paint correction. Good luck!!
Did you try a compound followed up by a polish? Try M105 followed by M205 and this should take care of them for you. If not some minor wetsanding may be required and can be taken out by a M105 and followed by M205.
2.the directions on the medium and heavy cut cleaner say for use on rotary buffer only, will they not work as ideally on DA or at all or ruin the finish?
This is just for optimal use. You will be fine using it on your DA polisher.
3. i used the medium cut cleaner with cutting pad on roof with no perceptable change in appearance on etching after the first cut with DA Cleaner/Polish. Is the only alternative wet sand? What would happen if I used HEavy Cut without rotary?
Without pictures it is hard to tell. You can try the heavy cut on a cutting pad and if that doesnt work, you may need to step it up to Meguiar's professional line. (M105, M205, etc.) M105 is DA approved and a very great compound/polish. Breaks down quick and really improves/reduces imperfections.
4. is the rotary just that much more efficient? if I had to categorize my paint it would have to be "neglected" as in acid rain etching, lots of fine scratches, and a bit of oxidation. Am i fighting a losing battle and suck it up for a professional to just hit the 3 areas?
Rotary is efficient due to speed and circular motion. In the wrong hands, this could be deadly. If you are really not sure how to remove these, it is probably best to do some research and find a reputable shop / mobile detailer. You can check out autopia.org for someone local. The problem is most OTC products just dont cut it with serious paint correction. Good luck!!
And one point of clarity I fought with someone at my house over...the buff pad should lay flat on the car NO "edging" right? PLEASE tell me im right!
05-27-09, 04:43 AM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
I KNEW I was right. Thanks! He sait if you keep it flat it makes swirl marks.
I noticed you dont use much by way of Meguiars, is that personal choice as in the stuff you use works better? The prices for the professional stuff is outrageous for a one time use for me to get my scratches and swirls out it will probably decompose before I have need to use it again. I did the whole car like you suggested and its freakin amazing like smooth as glass BUT I can still see the acid rain etchings and scratches in the right light no swirls or spider webbing tho.
Think I'll bring to shop I used for my Lexus for their opinion. If they say wet sanding is next step I'll call it a day. Thanks for the advice.
I noticed you dont use much by way of Meguiars, is that personal choice as in the stuff you use works better? The prices for the professional stuff is outrageous for a one time use for me to get my scratches and swirls out it will probably decompose before I have need to use it again. I did the whole car like you suggested and its freakin amazing like smooth as glass BUT I can still see the acid rain etchings and scratches in the right light no swirls or spider webbing tho.
Think I'll bring to shop I used for my Lexus for their opinion. If they say wet sanding is next step I'll call it a day. Thanks for the advice.
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