Alignment check
#1
Alignment check
On my daily driver IS250 2012, I have switched from Eibach springs + Sport shocks combo to BCR coilovers (12k/10k default set up) for about 1 week now. I lowered about 1.5 inch front, and 1.3 inch rear without the Lexus lean (meaning both left and right have equal ride height).
I did alignment today, the toes are in specs, camber is little bit out and not adjustable. I asked the mechanic to put all toes at exact 0. The natural camber is -1.6 all front, -1.5 and -1.9 rear. Handling is sharp, steering is accurate, less body roll, hard cornering is very predictable...basically everything are better. The only concern I have is inner tire wear. How much will my current cambers affect tire wear? Will my Continental DWS with 500 tirewear rating last 40k miles? Do I need camber kit? I hope not!!!
I did alignment today, the toes are in specs, camber is little bit out and not adjustable. I asked the mechanic to put all toes at exact 0. The natural camber is -1.6 all front, -1.5 and -1.9 rear. Handling is sharp, steering is accurate, less body roll, hard cornering is very predictable...basically everything are better. The only concern I have is inner tire wear. How much will my current cambers affect tire wear? Will my Continental DWS with 500 tirewear rating last 40k miles? Do I need camber kit? I hope not!!!
Last edited by FSportIS; 01-13-15 at 08:10 PM.
#2
There have been a number of threads discussing tire wear with the IS. Check the thread on figs lower arm rear mount bushing. If you weren't getting excessive tire before, I doubt you will now, even if you don't replace the bushing.
In short, the consensus is that toe is killing the tires, which you've already corrected, and camber does a little, but not too much.
In short, the consensus is that toe is killing the tires, which you've already corrected, and camber does a little, but not too much.
#3
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If anything, I'd get Megan rear camber arms to get your camber EVEN! If you want max tire life, then get them into factory spec...plus you'll want the adjustable UCA too to help with the front wear.
But honestly, with my -2.4 up front and -2.8 rear negative camber currently on my DD IS350, I'm still completely fine with getting 30k miles out of some 300 treadwear BFGs. The key is the toe, which you've worked out already. Perhaps go that additional step further to get that one oddball corner in the rear the same on both sides.
But honestly, with my -2.4 up front and -2.8 rear negative camber currently on my DD IS350, I'm still completely fine with getting 30k miles out of some 300 treadwear BFGs. The key is the toe, which you've worked out already. Perhaps go that additional step further to get that one oddball corner in the rear the same on both sides.
#4
Thank you for the information guys. I'm thinking getting that Fig #2 bushing but I heard that it is not easy to install. Also, I don't have inner tire wear issue at all so far but that was with every camber in the -1 to -1.3 range when the car is not on coils.
I feel so relieved to hear that -2.4 and -2.8 camber getting 30k miles out of 300 treadwear tires lol, then I guess 40k out of 500 treadwear tires on my cambers (-1.5 to -1.9) can be expected than.
Yeah how the heck is one rear corner having -1.9 while the other one has -1.5 when the ride height is the same???
So for camber adjustment,
Front: UCA (not needed for me)
Rear: Megan rear camber arms (optional)
Will adjusting camber affect toe settings?
Gville350, you still have this negative camber even with camber kits or is it intentional to avoid rubbing?
I feel so relieved to hear that -2.4 and -2.8 camber getting 30k miles out of 300 treadwear tires lol, then I guess 40k out of 500 treadwear tires on my cambers (-1.5 to -1.9) can be expected than.
Yeah how the heck is one rear corner having -1.9 while the other one has -1.5 when the ride height is the same???
So for camber adjustment,
Front: UCA (not needed for me)
Rear: Megan rear camber arms (optional)
Will adjusting camber affect toe settings?
Gville350, you still have this negative camber even with camber kits or is it intentional to avoid rubbing?
#5
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The adding of the camber arms in the rear AND making adjustments to the camber could affect your toe.
Those specs were before I added the Megan camber arms. But I measured the length of the factory arm and adjusted the camber arms to the same, and installed. I can add some positive camber in the rear and get away with it; but meh, it can wait. Also have IS-F front UCAs with SPC ball joints ready to install; but just never really saw the need when I didn't end up going super aggressive with my wheel choice.
Those specs were before I added the Megan camber arms. But I measured the length of the factory arm and adjusted the camber arms to the same, and installed. I can add some positive camber in the rear and get away with it; but meh, it can wait. Also have IS-F front UCAs with SPC ball joints ready to install; but just never really saw the need when I didn't end up going super aggressive with my wheel choice.
#7
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^Yes. But in my case I only ended up with 19x8 and 19x8.5 -35 offset Genesis Track wheels; so any additional negative camber won't be necessary. Just running natural camber at this point. But I could also use the camber arms and adjustable SPCs to add some positive camber to the setup to net me a more factory spec-friendly alignment. But I enjoy taking the corners so aggressively that I feel the current setup nets me the best handling results. Maybe one day I'll play with it all to see what happens...maybe.
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#9
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A camber kit in the rear can affect toe, but it isn't likely to affect it enough that you would need aftermarket toe arms to bring it back to 0. If you do get camber arms for the back I would suggest reducing it to about 1 degree. You want more camber in the front to help it bite better than the rear, especially with the staggered tire setup.
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#11
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So I'm going to give you another point of view that may not be for everyone. I installed BC BC coilovers, Megan front upper control arms, Figs LCA rear bushings, and F sport sway bar with figs polyurathane bushings. Rear megan camber arms F sport sway with Figs polyurathane bushings. I have Vossen CV3s 19x8.5 +32 front with Michelin PSS 235/35 19x10 +38 with 275/30 tires. I don't have any rubbing issues unless I hid a bretty big bump at high speed 80 + mph and this is so seldom that I don't remember the last time it happened. Nothing new here I don't have lots of camber and I am not super low in the front. Now something that I never got around to was getting an alignment so I don't know any of the numbers for camber or toe. Here is some pics after 13 months and 17K miles. What do you think?
Last edited by jgr7; 01-17-15 at 04:00 PM.
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I was going to get one as soon as I finished adjusting everything to where I liked it. I kept watching the tires and they seemed to be wearing better than when stock so I never got around to it. I still will get it done soon but just wanted to show what it looked like at this momement. Just lowered it a little more and put a little more neg camber in the front.
#14
Good thing! Thank you for sharing?
What is your current camber and toes??
By the way, to all of you, what PSI are you running? Is 35PSI front and 38PSI rear any good for tire wear? I actually like it because it is both comfortable and handling well (absorb bumps better) vs. higher PSI that I have tried in the past.
What is your current camber and toes??
By the way, to all of you, what PSI are you running? Is 35PSI front and 38PSI rear any good for tire wear? I actually like it because it is both comfortable and handling well (absorb bumps better) vs. higher PSI that I have tried in the past.
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