Revhard191

iTrader: (4)

To the masses of CL I need some advice:

I have a 98 GS400 and I have noticed that the passanger rear break seems to be wearing a heck of a lot faster then the rest. I also noticed that when the breaks were replaced with the disks, I thought it was gone, but I noticed today that there is a couple of small groves that are marking my disk (Cross drilled and slotted rotors) and it is killing me because I don't why this is happening. This is going to be my 3rd time in a year that I have replaced the breakpads on that Rear side.

Could anyone here give me some advice or hints on how to solve this?

I usually do my breaks with me and my uncle and have done them on all of my cars and I have never had this happen before. Also, is there a rebuild kit for the rear caliper?

Thanks in advance for all of your advise.

Revhard191

rominl

iTrader: (4)

do you mean just the pessenger rear? i wonder if the caliper pistons are stuck, or if they pads are stuck and doesn't retract once you let go of the brakes

LEXSOOS

Bad caliper, Cheapest way to fix it is (not all cases) :
Take caliper apart, check o-ring seals, if they look ok, than using small brush ( (new hard toothbrush will work)and gasoline or brake cleaner, clean piston and caliper inside, make sure all buildup is removed, both caliper and piston must be shiny.
After you get done with all above, get all parts dry.
Use fine sand paper, like 400, sand caliper(inner) and piston(outer) surface
Get it clean using gas or brake cleaner, make sure it is perfectly clean, get it dry...
Put all o-rings back on, before you put piston into caliper apply some clean brake fluid on both caliper and piston, than you're ready to reassembly,,,,,,install unit on your car, bleed your brakes and you're all done it should be good for another 2-3 years, it depends on how bad caliper is now but mostly, it will last few years

If for some reason caliper is or will leak that means you need new one or atleast rebuilt one.

DIY caliper shall not take you more than 2-3 hours of your time, without rushing

Good luck with DIY caliper
- Jake

Oh i forgot about Caliper bolts they might be stuck (rust) check these before you do anything, FYI they should be easy to move , really without any force, if they are stuck pull them out, clean regrease them and you'll be OK

Tammy

You have unequal fluid pressure in the system. Right rear is the primary stopping caliper to wear the brake pads every four months. Do you notice a pull to the right when braking but not in the steering?

How many miles on the GS400? Do you have the ABS braking system? Are the calipers, bolts and slides rusted?

Does the pedal feel soft or spongy... Like air in the lines? The one with no air tends to wear first, when there is air in the others. This assumes that both inner and outer pads are wearing out equally on the failing brake.

Noted your not running stock rotors, are we also refering to aftermarket pads? Flaws in the pad material may cause uneven wear on the rotor.

Revhard191

iTrader: (4)

Thanks everyone for you responses:

Well this is the thing, when I hit the breaks I hear like a chopping noise that I think is coming from the Crossed drilled and slotted rotors(Sounds like a viiiizzzzzz as I am applying the breaks.) but I will hear it outside of the car even on the drivers side, so my thinking is that they make that sound. When I replaced my rotors, breaks and SS Lines, I noticed that a grove was marking the rear rotor, at inspection, I looked at the pad and all of the break material was completely off, so I looked at the inner pad and it still had a decent amount left on it. If I can remember correctly, it always seemed like that pass. rear was always dragging.

Once I put the new rotors, breaks and SS Lines on, I thought it would solve that problem since I thought I thoroughly cleaned the caliper and parts prior to putting it all back together. I now keep my eyes on the rotor to see if there are any markings and just noticed a couple days ago that it looked to be scaring in almost the same exact place as the previous breaks.

I just don't know why, and if I need to rebuild it I will.

Car now has 78,000 miles on it and it is a 98 GS 400, pads are the AXXIS Ceriamic pads along with Stainless Steel Lines. Pedal feel firm with no fade or vibration, nor does the car pull to any given side. I took it down the street at 60 and gradually applied the breaks and no pulling what so ever. I do no that I hear the pump on the ABS when I apply the breaks but that has always happened. Absolutely no rust on any bolts or slides, I made sure to clean those as I read in another thread.

Just confused....

Everyone for your help.

Revhard191

LEXSOOS

seems like piston is an issue here, most likely is stuck b/c rust and/or dirt

Do simple test, jack up whatever wheel you have problem with, than apply brake , hard 2-3 times and check real quick hows your wheel turns, freely? or you have to use some force in order to turn it, if you need to use some force to turn it, caliper piston is stuck. How to fix it, read my previous post

Revhard191

iTrader: (4)

Thanks LEXSOOS,

I am going to go out to my uncles tonight to pull the wheen and take a look at first the pads to see if they are wearing uneven again and it they are I will then have to take a part the calper and possibly rebuild it.

I hope this works, because I don't like to replace parts pre-maturely.

Again, thanks to all that have helped and I will try to post my findings as soon as I figure out what the problem is.

Revhard191

LEXSOOS

No problem, i hope you'll solve that issue
Let us know how it turn out........

Tammy

Glance at this link .. it refers to the Bosch antilock used by toyota.
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt30438.htm
There is a caliper cup seal kit available.