real time question - installing luxlink
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
real time question - installing luxlink
Working on luxlink install, and got to the part where you wire the door ECU. I can't find a good description of what wires to install to. There are three wiring connectors, does anyone have a good description of what connector, what wire position?
I have been using the manual from here on Club Lexus, I found 4 of the 5 wires in the center wiring harness connector, the fourth, the red with white stripe is not there.
The instructions say to testing the wires by operating the circuit. How do you do that? Add power while it is connected? Or gound out when connected? or not connect it?
I really do not want to blow out the ecu here. Thanks,
I have been using the manual from here on Club Lexus, I found 4 of the 5 wires in the center wiring harness connector, the fourth, the red with white stripe is not there.
The instructions say to testing the wires by operating the circuit. How do you do that? Add power while it is connected? Or gound out when connected? or not connect it?
I really do not want to blow out the ecu here. Thanks,
#2
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...59&PN=1#_index
He did a Great Write up with Photos of Plugs & Pin Connection that I used when I installed my LuxLink. I hope this helps
He did a Great Write up with Photos of Plugs & Pin Connection that I used when I installed my LuxLink. I hope this helps
Last edited by TURBO819; 05-04-13 at 08:43 AM.
#3
Advanced
It is best not to test by jumping a ground or +12V signal on to a suspect wire until you are absolutely sure you have the correct wire. If you are on the wrong wire, you could damage the vehicle. While there are some low current, computer safe test lights, the best and safest method is using a Digital Multi Meter. If you don't have one, they are available at many places, like Sears, Radio Shack and even WalMart for under $30.
Here is how to set up the meter and test for a +12V positive wire :
Set the DMM to the 20 Volt DC scale, connect the Black test lead to a good chassis ground and probe the suspect wire with the Red test lead. The DMM will read around +12.6 Volts when the signal is present.
This is the setup for a negative wire like the door locks or trunk signal :
Set the DMM to the 20 Volt DC scale, connect the Red test lead to a +12V constant source and probe the suspect wire with the Black test lead. The DMM will read around +12.6 Volts when the signal is present.
To test by operating the circuit, with the door locks you might have to put a key in the drivers door lock cylinder and turn it to lock or unlock and hold while checking the DMM.
If you don't have it, I can send you the LuxLink Install guide. It is very detailed and includes many photos.
Here is how to set up the meter and test for a +12V positive wire :
Set the DMM to the 20 Volt DC scale, connect the Black test lead to a good chassis ground and probe the suspect wire with the Red test lead. The DMM will read around +12.6 Volts when the signal is present.
This is the setup for a negative wire like the door locks or trunk signal :
Set the DMM to the 20 Volt DC scale, connect the Red test lead to a +12V constant source and probe the suspect wire with the Black test lead. The DMM will read around +12.6 Volts when the signal is present.
To test by operating the circuit, with the door locks you might have to put a key in the drivers door lock cylinder and turn it to lock or unlock and hold while checking the DMM.
If you don't have it, I can send you the LuxLink Install guide. It is very detailed and includes many photos.
Last edited by FlopTop04; 05-04-13 at 11:12 AM.
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thanks. I found another link (not at CL) that got my answers. I will post up pics and better instructions for anyone else that tackles this project.
Still have alarm sensor to mount and then transponder thing. Any hints on installing it?
Still have alarm sensor to mount and then transponder thing. Any hints on installing it?
#5
Advanced
If you are referring to the TBKIII "key-in-the-box" bypass module, here is a link to the install guide :
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDow...irmwareid=1485
Tips:
Make sure the transponder chip ( in the valet key head ) is properly positioned in the TBXIII coil loop and secured so no movement or shifting is possible.
The antenna wire around the SC430's ignition cylinder should be on the outside ( away from the steering column ) and at least 4 loops. You can secure these loops in position with a small dab of "hot-glue" in a few areas.
Place the actual module in a well hidden location ( limited by harness length ) and secure with tie-wraps.
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDow...irmwareid=1485
Tips:
Make sure the transponder chip ( in the valet key head ) is properly positioned in the TBXIII coil loop and secured so no movement or shifting is possible.
The antenna wire around the SC430's ignition cylinder should be on the outside ( away from the steering column ) and at least 4 loops. You can secure these loops in position with a small dab of "hot-glue" in a few areas.
Place the actual module in a well hidden location ( limited by harness length ) and secure with tie-wraps.
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
If you are referring to the TBKIII "key-in-the-box" bypass module, here is a link to the install guide :
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDow...irmwareid=1485
Tips:
Make sure the transponder chip ( in the valet key head ) is properly positioned in the TBXIII coil loop and secured so no movement or shifting is possible.
The antenna wire around the SC430's ignition cylinder should be on the outside ( away from the steering column ) and at least 4 loops. You can secure these loops in position with a small dab of "hot-glue" in a few areas.
Place the actual module in a well hidden location ( limited by harness length ) and secure with tie-wraps.
http://www.xpresskit.com/DocumentDow...irmwareid=1485
Tips:
Make sure the transponder chip ( in the valet key head ) is properly positioned in the TBXIII coil loop and secured so no movement or shifting is possible.
The antenna wire around the SC430's ignition cylinder should be on the outside ( away from the steering column ) and at least 4 loops. You can secure these loops in position with a small dab of "hot-glue" in a few areas.
Place the actual module in a well hidden location ( limited by harness length ) and secure with tie-wraps.
#7
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thought I would post up what I found out.... Here are the wires you need to find -- they are wrapped in tape on my pic.. going left to right on the ecu on the door, one red/white on the first plug, two on the second and two on the last.
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#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I want to add another power port in my center console. I do not have the gps monitor. can I steal power from there and use, or should I run a line to the battery?
#9
Advanced
Nice pictures. They should help others with their LuxLink install.
On your TBKIII antenna loop question, I can't help too much because I never used that bypass module or had to run an antenna loop to the SC's ignition switch. I didn't want to do the transponder bypass that way so I used a Data style bypass module ( which does not need a key and connects directly to the SC430's transponder harness wires ).
As for the power outlet in the center console box, it is powered by a 15 Amp fuse in the Driver's side Fuse Box ( middle row, second from bottom ). Figure Lexus didn't waste any money by running a thick, 30 amp capable wire on a 15 Amp circuit... Not sure how much you would possibly draw from the two outlets combined after you add a second outlet. If it's just cell phone chargers, you should be OK.
On your TBKIII antenna loop question, I can't help too much because I never used that bypass module or had to run an antenna loop to the SC's ignition switch. I didn't want to do the transponder bypass that way so I used a Data style bypass module ( which does not need a key and connects directly to the SC430's transponder harness wires ).
As for the power outlet in the center console box, it is powered by a 15 Amp fuse in the Driver's side Fuse Box ( middle row, second from bottom ). Figure Lexus didn't waste any money by running a thick, 30 amp capable wire on a 15 Amp circuit... Not sure how much you would possibly draw from the two outlets combined after you add a second outlet. If it's just cell phone chargers, you should be OK.
#10
Pole Position
Thread Starter
hopefully what I did was enough on the transponder.
On the power, as I had the interior out, I ran a new wire with inline 15 amp fuse to the battery. Took 15 minutes including making a ground wire. Done.
need to track down rca to ipod wire and then let the carpet dry out in the sun (if it would ever come out) and start putting back together.
On the power, as I had the interior out, I ran a new wire with inline 15 amp fuse to the battery. Took 15 minutes including making a ground wire. Done.
need to track down rca to ipod wire and then let the carpet dry out in the sun (if it would ever come out) and start putting back together.
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