02 Sc430 VSC ON and OFF Lights no Code!!
#16
Driver School Candidate
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Location: California
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As I understand there are many situations that can cause the VSC and VSC OFF lights to come on (tire installation, suspension work, etc...) because the VSC is very sensitive to any changes and require calibration thereafter. I use the following procedures posted by ALEX and was able to get rid off the CHECK ENGINE, VSC, and VSC OFF.
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Zero Point Calibration Using SST 09843–18040 is ...the jump wire, any piece of wire you may find
The following procedure may be used in the cases where a Diagnostic Tester is
not available.
NOTE:
While performing the Zero Point Calibration, do not tilt, move or shake the vehicle.
The vehicle must remain in a stationary condition throughout the entire process.
Be sure to perform the procedure on a level surface with an inclination of less than 1%.
1. Ensure the shift lever is in the “P” range.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a cycle of short and open between terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds (refer to the specific vehicle EWD for TS and CG pin location in the DLC3).
4. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 are disconnected.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON.
8. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
9. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Connect terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
11. Turn the ignition switch ON.
12. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about 4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
13. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
14. Remove the SST from terminals Ts and CG of DLC3.
15. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.
-------
Zero Point Calibration Using SST 09843–18040 is ...the jump wire, any piece of wire you may find
The following procedure may be used in the cases where a Diagnostic Tester is
not available.
NOTE:
While performing the Zero Point Calibration, do not tilt, move or shake the vehicle.
The vehicle must remain in a stationary condition throughout the entire process.
Be sure to perform the procedure on a level surface with an inclination of less than 1%.
1. Ensure the shift lever is in the “P” range.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a cycle of short and open between terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds (refer to the specific vehicle EWD for TS and CG pin location in the DLC3).
4. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 are disconnected.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON.
8. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
9. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Connect terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
11. Turn the ignition switch ON.
12. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about 4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
13. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
14. Remove the SST from terminals Ts and CG of DLC3.
15. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: OR
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My solution to vsc & engine warning lights
Disconnect Battery Negative for 10-20 seconds, reconnect to reset Computer. All warning lights should work normally if it is a computer glitch. Mine works like a charm after I did it.
#18
Get your tool made and follow this:
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
#20
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: OR
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My solution to vsc & engine warning lights
Apparently, the VSC's & Engine Lights re-appear after driving.
I bought OBD2 Bluetooth and got a reading of Bank 1 Sensor 1 is bad.
I bought & replace / install it ... tips: buy the Oxygen sensor removal tool, very difficult to remove without it since it is hidden and little space to move your tool.
After installation, I reset it with the OBD2 reader.
Engine Light disappear but VSC's still On.
I did the jumper things described above and now it is fixed, no more VSC's lights.
I bought the sensor from ebay @ around $55, by DENSO and exact replacement. The removal ratched is another $16 by EWK, well made tool, highly recommended.
I bought OBD2 Bluetooth and got a reading of Bank 1 Sensor 1 is bad.
I bought & replace / install it ... tips: buy the Oxygen sensor removal tool, very difficult to remove without it since it is hidden and little space to move your tool.
After installation, I reset it with the OBD2 reader.
Engine Light disappear but VSC's still On.
I did the jumper things described above and now it is fixed, no more VSC's lights.
I bought the sensor from ebay @ around $55, by DENSO and exact replacement. The removal ratched is another $16 by EWK, well made tool, highly recommended.
#21
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
I've had my car on lift plenty of times, including today for my Supra TT BBK, and did not get any light even after driving about 40 miles. So not totally sure about this statement. There's a whole dedicated thread to this situation which explains the problem in much more detail... as well as a solution using a jumper method on the ODBII.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: TX
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I have been where you are! The first code detector did not pick up the info to confirm that the steering synchronization was
the problem.
Go back and ask specifically to have that checked....it was the problem on my vehicle. The repairman 'relearned' the synchronization
program, fixed my car in 5 minutes flat.
If you have a Christian Brothers franchisee group near you, they will be able to do the 'fix' for you.
the problem.
Go back and ask specifically to have that checked....it was the problem on my vehicle. The repairman 'relearned' the synchronization
program, fixed my car in 5 minutes flat.
If you have a Christian Brothers franchisee group near you, they will be able to do the 'fix' for you.
#23
Driver
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Nevada
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Get your tool made and follow this:
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
I can't thank you enough! Just used this method yesterday to get rid of my persistent vsc light.
#24
Driver School Candidate
outstanding help, thanks so much. the links included led me to the actual Service Bulletin outlining the Zero Point Calibration procedure.
Last edited by DPlainview; 11-26-21 at 07:39 PM.
#25
Driver School Candidate
Get your tool made and follow this:
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
The problem is solved by putting a jumper on 2 pins in the OBD-II connector under the dash. I think a lot of owners have this problem especially after being scanned for code. Some scanners are not built the same-- that seems to be the explanation. Anyhow, here it is, with a little bit of modification as it suits the SC430.
1. Turn off ignition.
2. Look for the OBD-II connector under the dash, it has a black plastic cover which can be pulled out.
3. Using a 4-inch wire, insert ends on two pins (holes) of the OBD-II connector. Which ones? The connector has two rows of holes with pins inside. The connector's shape is basically rectangle but there's a little wedge shape to it. Like this:
______
/---------\
/-----------\
(see picture below)
I will call the narrower side of the connector the top row, and the wider side to be the lower row. Jump the following pins:
a) on the top row, counting from the left, where the first pin is 1, insert on pin number 3
b) on the bottom row, counting from the left, insert on pin
number 5.
4. Turn ON the ignition, do not start.
5. VSC and Check Engine lights turn ON. That's normal.
6. Wait for the VSC light to rapidly flash.
7. Turn OFF ignition.
8. Pull jumper wire out, cover the OBD-II connector.
9. Turn ignition ON, don't start, wait about 15 seconds to make sure everything has initialized.
10. Start car. Test drive. You've just saved yourself couple of thousand dollars.
I had to create an account just to comment on this. I had my sc430 in the Lexus dealer, they reset the warning. As soon as I drive off the lights come on.
Followed the above steps and fixed. At least appears so.
Thanks very much
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Bgw70 (04-20-22)
#26
Lexus Test Driver
perhaps you may want to consider a different dealer next time ;-)
Last edited by Bgw70; 04-21-22 at 04:50 AM.
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Wilson2000 (04-23-22)
#28
Lexus Test Driver
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