A/T shifter vibration rattle, possible improved "fix"
#1
A/T shifter vibration rattle, possible improved "fix"
I've previously wrapped some electrical tape around the plastic cover that slips over the two set screws at the bottom of the shifter, so as to keep it from vibrating against the surround. That sort of worked, but it really didn't address the root of the problem very well, which is the side-to-side play in the shifter assembly. I have the replacement bushings (only $1.50 or so from Sewell) for whenever I decide to dig deep into that area to swap them out, but that seems like a lot of work...
While looking things over for some shift **** replacement ideas, I noticed what looks to be the source of most of the vibration. The metal right side piece that the gear release rod locks into appears to be what the shaft hits against due to the play at its base. In the below pictures, you can see the side-to-side play in that section, as well as my fix: a piece of padded double-sided tape, held firmly in place by a few wrappings of electrical tape. That takes most of the play out of the assembly and keeps from having metal-on-metal contact.
There's still some clunking down at the base from the worn bushings, but hopefully that'll be minimal compared to what it was. I also noticed that there's a lot of creakiness from the black plastic housing around the shifter, which possibly contributes to the overall vibration noises when driving. I slid the rubbery piece out that fills the gap around the shifter and added some grease where it slides along the housing's grooves. That made a huge difference! I have epoxy drying on the cracked screw holes, so I haven't put it back in yet for a road test. I'll report back in a few hours.
While looking things over for some shift **** replacement ideas, I noticed what looks to be the source of most of the vibration. The metal right side piece that the gear release rod locks into appears to be what the shaft hits against due to the play at its base. In the below pictures, you can see the side-to-side play in that section, as well as my fix: a piece of padded double-sided tape, held firmly in place by a few wrappings of electrical tape. That takes most of the play out of the assembly and keeps from having metal-on-metal contact.
There's still some clunking down at the base from the worn bushings, but hopefully that'll be minimal compared to what it was. I also noticed that there's a lot of creakiness from the black plastic housing around the shifter, which possibly contributes to the overall vibration noises when driving. I slid the rubbery piece out that fills the gap around the shifter and added some grease where it slides along the housing's grooves. That made a huge difference! I have epoxy drying on the cracked screw holes, so I haven't put it back in yet for a road test. I'll report back in a few hours.
#3
I got it all buttoned back up and will be hitting the road shortly. With everything back in place, it feels like I've addressed metal contact to the right (pushing the shift **** that direction) but not to the left. To do likewise for that side would probably mean putting some sort of pad under the left side of the upside down T of the shift lever, to keep it from dropping to the left and clunking on metal. It goes into a sleeve of some sort on that side that is probably where one of the bushings is supposed to hold it in place. (They're little rubber cups.) I probably should have looked to see if there was enough room to slide a felt pad under there before putting it all back together... The lower right screw on the black plastic surround is a PITA to get to, being covered up by the center console and the base that it screws into -- no direct line of access -- and not something I'm dying to re-do just for a re-check.
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#10
Not quite a year later, the shifter is starting to vibrate again. I haven't opened it up yet to see if my fix deteriorated or if something new is causing it. My guess would be the slider that surrounds the shifter is getting creaky again and needs re-greasing.
#11
In Recovery Mode
iTrader: (11)
Did it 3 times on all 3 of my SC's. Took me less than an hour. Pretty easy to replace, just a lot of stuff that has to be removed.
Bushings were about 4 bucks from the dealership.
#14
Besides, I haven't confirmed yet that I even need to address the shifter bushings... Still gotta test if quieting down the plastic slider for the second time will do the trick.
#15
In Recovery Mode
iTrader: (11)
Yeah, but I'm very distrustful of people's time estimates when it comes to car projects. For example, you went from "took me less than an hour" to "about 2 hours for each car." Doing the third one faster isn't really indicative of what it'll take someone on their first try, now is it? I find that people usually estimate time from a wishful thinking standpoint, and the actual amount is at least double that stated.
Besides, I haven't confirmed yet that I even need to address the shifter bushings... Still gotta test if quieting down the plastic slider for the second time will do the trick.
Besides, I haven't confirmed yet that I even need to address the shifter bushings... Still gotta test if quieting down the plastic slider for the second time will do the trick.
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DroppedGS
GS - 1st Gen (1993-1997)
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04-12-03 11:42 AM