chnk

iTrader: (12)

Alright just got a set of 10 extended wheel studs for my rears, I've replaced them before by removing the brake calipers and rotor and hammering it out of the hub. But I found getting the wheel stud back in wasn't as easy. I put the rotor and brake caliper back on along with the wheel and used a lug nut to help torque the wheel stud back in. Well I could get the wheel stud to come out as far as the factory ones.

So my question is, how safe is to remove and put back the wheel hub? I've been told removing the wheel hub and putting it back wasn't the safest thing. What does factory have the nut that holds the wheel hub in torqued too?

Also has anyone used these? I'm looking to buy a set of opened ended lug nuts and ebay seems to have the cheapest ones
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUTEK...ts_Accessories

SChema

iTrader: (2)

You shouldn't have to remove the hub. I replaced mine with a set of ARP extended studs; it was simple, just time consuming. I put mine in the freezer the day before actually installing them. Compressed a bit to make the installation process a bit easier.

I'm using Muteki lug nuts currently and they work fine, using the SR48 though. I like the Muteki because the are steel instead of aluminum.

chnk

iTrader: (12)

freezing, why didnt i think of that, your a genius lol

did it the wheel stud go in much easy after? I had the hardest time getting the one i did replace in

good2go

iTrader: (6)

Every time I've changed wheel studs, I always left the hub on and the wheel off, stacked a few hardened washers over the new studs, and then tightened them up with an appropriate lugnut (non-tapered, flat bottom, open top) until they were fully seated. You can torque them significantly tighter when you are just squeezing your hub and a few hard washers; the force is really focused onto the stud that way. No need to torque the heck out of your alloy rims just to seat them

SChema

iTrader: (2)

They went in fairly smooth, didn't have any issues at all; just took a long time doing it all by hand with a 1/2" ratchet, no air tools here. Make sure you check the torque on the fasteners after the initial test drive and then one more time at about 100 miles.

adl16v

thats the easiest way sc studs are cake especially the front ones

fuel4blood

I agree, but I would use a very large nut. The washer tend to give and flex and came sometimes get crushed against the hub. So I used a really big nut and a spare lug nut open ended, cause the lug nuts gonna take a beating. Also something that helps tremendously which I always do is to lub the splines of the stud with grease I would definitely not use your rim as mentioned above. I also use a impact gun

chnk

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the advice i have a clearer idea than before

shern

iTrader: (6)

I used a set of washers smothered in grease and an open ended lug to pull the stud through. Air impact obviously makes it easy.

Photon440

iTrader: (3)

The "stack of washers" idea works for me as well, but there are specific devices made for this application. Here's a picture of one from the web. With the machined cone area for the nut at least you know it'll stay centered and keep the threads from scraping along the washers.

http://discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/wheelstudtool.jpg