Adding a transmission filter
05-20-16, 06:00 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Adding a transmission filter
Rough Idle while in Gear
Does anyone with this rough idle have a Magnefine filter installed on the transmission? I am starting to piece together some of the common issues connected to the transmission and maybe this could be beneficial. The part within the transmission that fails is the orbital gear and something within the gear is aluminum. When the aluminum starts chunking off, its allowed to flow through the transmission freely to continue chewing up the other moving parts. The magnets wont catch aluminum obviously and if the pan screen doesnt stop it, well the problem only worsens. By adding a magnefine filter you can keep these loose bits from recirculating.
Does anyone with this rough idle have a Magnefine filter installed on the transmission? I am starting to piece together some of the common issues connected to the transmission and maybe this could be beneficial. The part within the transmission that fails is the orbital gear and something within the gear is aluminum. When the aluminum starts chunking off, its allowed to flow through the transmission freely to continue chewing up the other moving parts. The magnets wont catch aluminum obviously and if the pan screen doesnt stop it, well the problem only worsens. By adding a magnefine filter you can keep these loose bits from recirculating.
Last edited by Drcoffee; 05-21-16 at 06:43 AM.
05-20-16, 07:35 PM
#2
Moderator
Post moved
There is a weak connection to rough idle and other members are forking to new threads. Best is to move your thread, and that is what I have done.
Your solution will hopefully trap the pulverized aluminum. assuming your filter will cath the size of particles in question without impeding the regular flow.
I see two problems.
1. There is one theory that the trans fluid pump is weak, Adding anther filter will reduce the flow.
2. Once the plater nary gear starts falling apart, you are already on the path to transmission failure. Depending on where the filter is [likely in the cooing path, the innards are already swimming in the soup].
Dont let me discourage you, but these are the questions that come to my mind.
Salim
Your solution will hopefully trap the pulverized aluminum. assuming your filter will cath the size of particles in question without impeding the regular flow.
I see two problems.
1. There is one theory that the trans fluid pump is weak, Adding anther filter will reduce the flow.
2. Once the plater nary gear starts falling apart, you are already on the path to transmission failure. Depending on where the filter is [likely in the cooing path, the innards are already swimming in the soup].
Dont let me discourage you, but these are the questions that come to my mind.
Salim
05-21-16, 05:59 AM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Rough Idle while in Gear
Salim,
I agree, it is a weak connection other than increased resistance from the torque converter when the engine is at idle while in gear. As for the filter, I run this filter on all 4 of my vehicles, 4runner, IS300, Sienna and Rav4 and 3 prior vehicles and never had a problem. The filter in the pan is a screen. By its design, being on the suction port of the trans pump, it cannot be restrictive or it would starve the transmission of fluid. Adding an inline filter to the cooler line ensures any fluid that passes through the transmission is cleaned before re-entering the transmission fluid pan to be reused. As to your point about it being restrictive, the built in bypass valve only requires 2 psi to open up. Even a weak pump can flow freely. I think the benfits of clean ATF outweigh the risks IMO. The pan magnets are fine, but they only catch ferrous particles. The pan screen is fine but it only catches larger bits.
Since Im starting a new thread with this topic, let me provide the link to a write up I posted on the cooler and filter install for my 2008 Sienna van. All the same steps apply, even tho its a diff vehicle.
Install
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/27...re-thread.html
And if you are interested in flushing your transmission at home, here the link to that procedure.
Flush
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/27...ienna-xle.html
I bought a 2001 IS300 with 96,000 miles on it did a drain and fill right away. Before I flushed the transmission I installed a Magnefine filter and removed it 10,000 miles later before the performing the flush. The black crud on the paper towel was what I wiped off the magnet and the bits stuck to the magnet were flowing thru the fluid until the filter was added.
You can see the bypass valve in the center of the filter end. Just a spring loaded button that opens when needed. The filter element has plenty of surface area to flow freely.
This filter with 37,000 miles just came out of my '08 sienna . If you can zoom in on the picture, it looks hairy with iron bits on the magnet.
The question you need to ask is, are you better off with or without this filter? A drain and fill Will not change this condition.
Salim,
I agree, it is a weak connection other than increased resistance from the torque converter when the engine is at idle while in gear. As for the filter, I run this filter on all 4 of my vehicles, 4runner, IS300, Sienna and Rav4 and 3 prior vehicles and never had a problem. The filter in the pan is a screen. By its design, being on the suction port of the trans pump, it cannot be restrictive or it would starve the transmission of fluid. Adding an inline filter to the cooler line ensures any fluid that passes through the transmission is cleaned before re-entering the transmission fluid pan to be reused. As to your point about it being restrictive, the built in bypass valve only requires 2 psi to open up. Even a weak pump can flow freely. I think the benfits of clean ATF outweigh the risks IMO. The pan magnets are fine, but they only catch ferrous particles. The pan screen is fine but it only catches larger bits.
Since Im starting a new thread with this topic, let me provide the link to a write up I posted on the cooler and filter install for my 2008 Sienna van. All the same steps apply, even tho its a diff vehicle.
Install
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/27...re-thread.html
And if you are interested in flushing your transmission at home, here the link to that procedure.
Flush
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/27...ienna-xle.html
I bought a 2001 IS300 with 96,000 miles on it did a drain and fill right away. Before I flushed the transmission I installed a Magnefine filter and removed it 10,000 miles later before the performing the flush. The black crud on the paper towel was what I wiped off the magnet and the bits stuck to the magnet were flowing thru the fluid until the filter was added.
You can see the bypass valve in the center of the filter end. Just a spring loaded button that opens when needed. The filter element has plenty of surface area to flow freely.
This filter with 37,000 miles just came out of my '08 sienna . If you can zoom in on the picture, it looks hairy with iron bits on the magnet.
The question you need to ask is, are you better off with or without this filter? A drain and fill Will not change this condition.
Last edited by Drcoffee; 05-21-16 at 07:32 AM.
05-21-16, 10:11 AM
#4
Moderator
Later models have switched to element type filter. Maybe that was done for this reason.
Smaller/weaker pump was suggested when some one opened up the transmission and noticed that Lexus used and existing pump from previous vehicles and it was undersized for the application.
There are all sorts of theories about the root cause of failure. IMHO most owners do what they have in their control ,,, transmission fluid maintenance ... there is no hard evidence that it helps.
Please pursue what you think is best. My theory is maintain your vehicle well, do not stress it, do not do a flush and if the failure will happen it will happen even if you do more. Granted, it is easier for me to say that with 200+K miles.
Salim
Smaller/weaker pump was suggested when some one opened up the transmission and noticed that Lexus used and existing pump from previous vehicles and it was undersized for the application.
There are all sorts of theories about the root cause of failure. IMHO most owners do what they have in their control ,,, transmission fluid maintenance ... there is no hard evidence that it helps.
Please pursue what you think is best. My theory is maintain your vehicle well, do not stress it, do not do a flush and if the failure will happen it will happen even if you do more. Granted, it is easier for me to say that with 200+K miles.
Salim
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