kalali

Sounds like a great plan. Install them and please post some before and after pictures. I would be interested in a picture of the housing after the light has been on for an extended period, say a good hour drive.

salimshah

It is your vehicle and you are entitled to do what you prefer with it.

Regarding current drop off ... let me say your conclusion is right but the reasoning resitive-charge/inductive-charge/motor is not perfect. That is better covered in Physics or EE forum.

One thing you need to keep in mind is that the heat generated is radiated as well as conducted. The conduction happens through the base, connector, wires and housing. The final temperature of each will be based on time, ambient temperature and air flow.

One thing you missed are the switches. Just monitor arcing and burn off of contacts and the auto-on module. This would be cold resistance based current.

Second thing would be the connectors from battery to socket. Most connectors are pressure contact .. the worst connection will be stressed till the resistance gets high to limit the current flow.

I would urge you to look at the problem and not necessarily march down a certain path. So stating the problem is much more important than forcing a solution.
ex: Problem: I cant see well during night driving.
If you post that problem, you will get more constructive feedback. Some wise guy/gal may even suggest getting your vision checked

In your solution, I would urge you to consider other drivers on the road too. Badly focused and very bright lights from oncoming vehicle is a safety issue.

Here in US the word watts is getting even muddier as house-hold bulbs are going through a mandatory drop of filament bulbs and the new ones are boxed with equivalent watts printed on them

Salim

edupim

thanks Salim, wise words.
starting from the end. here in Brazil is the same. it is a old habit misunderstand lumens x watts. grand father/mother case.
about drivers on the road you are 1000 % correct, not to escape but i only changed the high bean and i do not use normally, only if there is not cars in the other side of road this is a rule in Brazil may be same in USA.
about my vision i liked the thin subtlety used. I got the message.
about the resitive-charge/inductive-charge/motor i know just to comment ohms law, that in the extreme this bulb will not follow ohm law. do not forget that there is a gas inside the bulb.
about switches yes i forgot
about my car, i understand that i can not do what i want since i use it in community and have to follow rules
at last my suspect is that 100 w is fake and this is a merchandise trick.
i ll do the measures but i cop out
edupim

edupim

hi Kalali, like i do not have domain of english i cant have a felling about what you said.
by you, are you sure that housing will be damaged ? if yes i will not be headstrong.

kalali

I have no first hand knowledge of what will happen to the housing since I have never installed those lights. I read the same feedbacks that you read but tend to respect inputs from folks like hyper, salim, etc., who took the time to respond . All I can tell you is final decision is yours.but I bet there are folks here like me who are just as curious to see how/if this will work. Sorry, can't be more helpful.

aznlapin

Seeing that 100w bulbs would likely cause serious damage to the housing and harness, what is the highest wattage bulbs anyone's used and came out alive?
Specifically looking for the highest rated bulbs that can be safely used on a '02 without modifying the housing or wiring harness.
Looking for actual experience here. Thanks.