Toughtruck

Greetings Everyone,

Just finished my Aristo Swap, and wanted to drop in and ask you a quick question after searching a bunch of the threads on getting the Tach, Speedometer, Shift lock/release to work on the GS300 with the 2jzgte swap. I repinned the grey connector as one member suggested worked for him, I did it, and it worked, but I'm unsure if repinning it caused my car to not run anymore. It cranks, turns over, but doesn't stay running anymore. Any insights? I'd appreciate it. I will try adding more fuel seeing as it's low, but not on "E" yet, although its close, and up on jack stands. I've read many recommendations "repin orange plug", "run a cable from igniter to the ecu", but nothing is clear. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

nyc80rick

think you are out of gas . my swap runs out of gas at about half way between the empty and 1/4 tank. how much gas was in the car before the swap do you remember? try adding gas then get back with us if you still have the same issue

I only ran out of fuel one time and when I filled it up it was the exact gallons to fill the tank which means the gauge reads a little off.

Bhubb18

iirc the gauge expects GS injectors (300cc or so), and with an Aristo swap they get bumped up to 430cc (or so), thus the cluster thinks you've used ~30% less fuel.

No idea why they use this system...

Toughtruck

Thanks for the speedy response, I will add gas once I return back home to see my results. I was just below a quarter tank before doing the swap, lost some fuel removing the old GE pump, and adding the aristo pump. Will let you know my findings.

Toughtruck

I added gas, and tried to crank it, but it still will not run. Here is a youtube video of how it's running...

nyc80rick

umm going to ask someone and send him your youtube to see what he thinks.

Toughtruck

it's not the fuel pump, send/return, verified gas is going to the engine. It's weird seeing as the engine ran good many times before this.

Toughtruck

unsure why the plugs would be black like this.

PicassoTT

Are you running the stock toyota pump or aftermarket ?


I had this same issue and it kept be baffled for a month till my buddy insisted I change the fuel pump. I almost thought there was an internal issue in the head or something simple like the fuel pressure regulator which I changed till I dropped in an automotive stealth pump.

What happen is you are getting fuel pressure but not enough to get the regulator to open, with that the fuel will stay backed up in the rail and will be enough to barely start it as the engine gobbles up what is in the rail before more fuel can enter the rail via the pump. Each time you crank the engine fuel is just being dumped by the injectors in an abundance. Your plugs will either be fowled up or wet with fuel when you check them. Check your return line it will show little fuel going back to the tank or none at all.

I used a bosch 044 that my buddy had for his v6 mazda 929 rwd project, splice the wires for the Bosch pump into the factory fuel pump wiring and hooked the outlet line from the pump to the car fuel line. I did this after several other checks eg engine sensors ( crank,cam and throttle body components) redid my fuel lines, called a sound toyota electrician to double check my harness etc. All the while the fuel pump was the culprit not being able to provide sufficient fuel pressure. Yes it seemed that it was functioning well after testing it on other vehicles but for the 2jzgte it was not enough pressure even though the flow was enough for it to work on other vehicles with no issue that requires a pump of a higher flow rate.

angus

iTrader: (4)

Following this for outcome as well as the re-pinning instructions for the shift lock!

Toughtruck

Thanks for your reply PicassoTT , I'm just now seeing it some reason I didn't get a notification of it. Since my post I did figure it out, I was actually off one pin for my Shift Lock/Release, and it would not allow the car to run. The plug I was dealing with was the dark Grey body plug I believe its called, which is located beside the orange plug in the ECU box. After moving the pins back to the way they were, and moving just the one pin, the car crunk up, ran, idled, and my shift lock/release worked, and the e-shift works . Still baffles me as to why my Mass Air Flow sensor is not reading, ordered a new one, still nothing, I'm thinking the other MAF sensor that was made goes on here. I'm considering doing a write up of whats need going from the 2JZGE to the 2JZGTE single, and stock twins.

Toughtruck

Quick question before I write up my instructions, do you have, or can you take a picture of your 2JZGTE grey connector as it is? So I can include it in the write up also to ensure there's not a difference to how my connector was versus how someone else's may be.

angus

iTrader: (4)

I will take pic and post it asap.

Big thanks for this, I wanted to make sure.

ALSO - since you have a working E-shift, I have one question. Does your E-shift now allow you to select 1st gear? I know that all GS300 and 400 DO NOT allow you to go below 2nd gear - they are 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 and my JDM Aristo goes L - 2 - 3 - 4.

Thanks again!

angus

iTrader: (4)

I also noticed in your video that you are running with NO MAF or I/C piping attached - this would have contributed to the rough running - although the wiring must have been the main culprit.

Toughtruck

Okay thanks, and sorry for delayed response I'm not getting any notifications for replies on here.

On the E-Shift I'm actually wondering the same because I can go down to 2, but I will have to check the shifter link, because when I connected it back at the time of the swap I didn't check if I linked it past 2, or if 1/Low is available. On the USDM 2JZGE I could go from 1/Low, 2, 3, 4, 5/Drive. The 2001+ GS300/400's are the ones that don't allow you to go past 2.