Getting an SC4.
02-10-16, 08:40 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Getting an SC4.
Hey all,
This is my first post here, as I was previously on the my.is site since, well, I owned an IS.
However that came to an agonizing end when I got ran off the road by a presumably drunk driver a week ago today.
Now, I'm looking at getting an SC4 as a replacement, but I have a few questions for y'all.
Which gen would be the best? (92-95, 96-97, or the 98+ VVT-i)
I mean that in the following way, which one is the best for me, if I:
-Plan on doing a manual swap
-Plan on FI
I've read that there are issues manual swapping the VVT-i's due to the immobilizer and ECU communication issues, and that the VVT-i engine is also less receptive to SC/TC FI.
Really, what I'm asking is, if I want to manual swap the SC400 and go FI, which facelift would be best for me? Is a manual swapped 96/97 going to be as quick as a VVT-i w/ A650e? How much harder is is to swap the VVT-i car's trans to manual than non-VVT-i if the non won't be as quick? Which will be less expensive to boost? Will the gearing work out for the VVT-i (aka not kill accel due to gears being too long as compared to the A650e)? Really is there any BIG reason to want the VVT-i SC4 over the non? *I would be doing the W58/W59 if any. Prefer not to mix in Nissan parts.
(Pros and cons of the VVT-i vs non-VVT-i cars is what I'm looking for, really)
I've been searching around, and it has been somewhat of a goose chase, chasing ghosts, etc.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Lost
This is my first post here, as I was previously on the my.is site since, well, I owned an IS.
However that came to an agonizing end when I got ran off the road by a presumably drunk driver a week ago today.
Now, I'm looking at getting an SC4 as a replacement, but I have a few questions for y'all.
Which gen would be the best? (92-95, 96-97, or the 98+ VVT-i)
I mean that in the following way, which one is the best for me, if I:
-Plan on doing a manual swap
-Plan on FI
I've read that there are issues manual swapping the VVT-i's due to the immobilizer and ECU communication issues, and that the VVT-i engine is also less receptive to SC/TC FI.
Really, what I'm asking is, if I want to manual swap the SC400 and go FI, which facelift would be best for me? Is a manual swapped 96/97 going to be as quick as a VVT-i w/ A650e? How much harder is is to swap the VVT-i car's trans to manual than non-VVT-i if the non won't be as quick? Which will be less expensive to boost? Will the gearing work out for the VVT-i (aka not kill accel due to gears being too long as compared to the A650e)? Really is there any BIG reason to want the VVT-i SC4 over the non? *I would be doing the W58/W59 if any. Prefer not to mix in Nissan parts.
(Pros and cons of the VVT-i vs non-VVT-i cars is what I'm looking for, really)
I've been searching around, and it has been somewhat of a goose chase, chasing ghosts, etc.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Lost
02-10-16, 08:51 AM
#2
Well if you want to go forced induction it goes without saying the SC300 would be tons easier and cheaper for both boost and a manual swap but I'll assume you coming from an IS you already know all of that..
If you are settled on the V8 turbo be my guest, they sound amazing! Now, facelift is all cosmetics and doesn't affect the build in the slightest, go with whatever looks best to you. The VVTi motors are great and have more power out of the gate and have been mated to a manual only a couple times. I think there's some extra wiring for the trans but I don't think its that much different or harder. One of the major downsides of the VVTi motor is they went with lighter and slightly weaker rods. I don't think anyone has confirmed how much power they can/cannot hold but they are obviously smaller when comparing side by side to the older beefier rods.
If you are settled on the V8 turbo be my guest, they sound amazing! Now, facelift is all cosmetics and doesn't affect the build in the slightest, go with whatever looks best to you. The VVTi motors are great and have more power out of the gate and have been mated to a manual only a couple times. I think there's some extra wiring for the trans but I don't think its that much different or harder. One of the major downsides of the VVTi motor is they went with lighter and slightly weaker rods. I don't think anyone has confirmed how much power they can/cannot hold but they are obviously smaller when comparing side by side to the older beefier rods.
02-10-16, 10:06 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well if you want to go forced induction it goes without saying the SC300 would be tons easier and cheaper for both boost and a manual swap but I'll assume you coming from an IS you already know all of that..
If you are settled on the V8 turbo be my guest, they sound amazing! Now, facelift is all cosmetics and doesn't affect the build in the slightest, go with whatever looks best to you. The VVTi motors are great and have more power out of the gate and have been mated to a manual only a couple times. I think there's some extra wiring for the trans but I don't think its that much different or harder. One of the major downsides of the VVTi motor is they went with lighter and slightly weaker rods. I don't think anyone has confirmed how much power they can/cannot hold but they are obviously smaller when comparing side by side to the older beefier rods.
If you are settled on the V8 turbo be my guest, they sound amazing! Now, facelift is all cosmetics and doesn't affect the build in the slightest, go with whatever looks best to you. The VVTi motors are great and have more power out of the gate and have been mated to a manual only a couple times. I think there's some extra wiring for the trans but I don't think its that much different or harder. One of the major downsides of the VVTi motor is they went with lighter and slightly weaker rods. I don't think anyone has confirmed how much power they can/cannot hold but they are obviously smaller when comparing side by side to the older beefier rods.
(when I specified facelift, I meant the update from non-VVT-i to VVT-i)
But yeah, I'm not really looking to go with another 2jz. I like the hearty V8, and would prefer to at least be a little quick until I'm able to manual swap it. However it sounds like I should lean towards a 96-97, if it has the stronger rods. FI will need it. Also considering the lack of info regarding the manual swap on a VVT-i. Being that this is my first endeavor with the SC4, I'd prefer not to wander into too uncharted territory.
Grab a 96/97, get some 98+ headlights, tail lights, front/rear bumper, side skirts, a wing, and a W58 + LSD and go to town, is what it sounds like I should do.
02-10-16, 11:41 PM
#4
TheLost,
If forced induction (from an M-112 supercharger or custom turbos) in a 1UZ is what you want, go with a 92-97 with the stronger rods. However you might still need to build the engine depending on how far you want to go with it. Making LSx level horsepower with a 1UZ is VERY expensive and the support is very narrow.
For the VVT-i 1UZ's, supercharging on the stock rods is probably not recommended. Great engines though.
Swapping a manual to a VVT-i 1UZ SC400 involves the same physical mating procedure as with a 92-97, only at that level of power (stock) you'd be better off with an R154 or CD009 transmission. W58's are on the edge of their reliable long term power holding with 290hp/300tq stock.
The majority (or all of) the wiring tricks were outlined in a couple of threads by Cartmill who swapped his 1998 SC300 with a W58 and managed to get the backup lights, neutral, and other ECU functions satisfied... as well as getting the CEL to turn off. He largely did this by physically removing the shift solenoids from his automatic transmission and securing them somewhere on the chassis with the wiring harness still plugged into them. They then effectively did nothing and took up space, but the VVT-i ECU was happy.
The same should apply to the 98+ SC400 VVT-i ECU. I do think at least one or two people used his solutions in their 98+ SC400's converted to manual.
As for gearing, the 3.26 with an R154 will technically not be as aggressive. a 3.77 Supra TT Auto rear diff or a 92-97 3.92 SC400 rear diff would probably be the best match for gearing with a 5-speed.
If using a CD009 transmission (I'm not sure if anyone has made a CD009 to 1UZ adapter plate and clutch/PP solution yet) the 3.26 might still be the best match.
The easiest and most proven way to go about this is, as you guessed, a 1992-997 SC400 + SC300 or MKIV W58 + LSD. Very proven and good combination.
However, again, if you're planning to go with boost it might still be better to start with a beefier transmission.
There are also examples of LS1 and GM 5.3L + turbo swaps into SC's. Take a look at those as well for options?
If forced induction (from an M-112 supercharger or custom turbos) in a 1UZ is what you want, go with a 92-97 with the stronger rods. However you might still need to build the engine depending on how far you want to go with it. Making LSx level horsepower with a 1UZ is VERY expensive and the support is very narrow.
For the VVT-i 1UZ's, supercharging on the stock rods is probably not recommended. Great engines though.
Swapping a manual to a VVT-i 1UZ SC400 involves the same physical mating procedure as with a 92-97, only at that level of power (stock) you'd be better off with an R154 or CD009 transmission. W58's are on the edge of their reliable long term power holding with 290hp/300tq stock.
The majority (or all of) the wiring tricks were outlined in a couple of threads by Cartmill who swapped his 1998 SC300 with a W58 and managed to get the backup lights, neutral, and other ECU functions satisfied... as well as getting the CEL to turn off. He largely did this by physically removing the shift solenoids from his automatic transmission and securing them somewhere on the chassis with the wiring harness still plugged into them. They then effectively did nothing and took up space, but the VVT-i ECU was happy.
The same should apply to the 98+ SC400 VVT-i ECU. I do think at least one or two people used his solutions in their 98+ SC400's converted to manual.
As for gearing, the 3.26 with an R154 will technically not be as aggressive. a 3.77 Supra TT Auto rear diff or a 92-97 3.92 SC400 rear diff would probably be the best match for gearing with a 5-speed.
If using a CD009 transmission (I'm not sure if anyone has made a CD009 to 1UZ adapter plate and clutch/PP solution yet) the 3.26 might still be the best match.
The easiest and most proven way to go about this is, as you guessed, a 1992-997 SC400 + SC300 or MKIV W58 + LSD. Very proven and good combination.
However, again, if you're planning to go with boost it might still be better to start with a beefier transmission.
There are also examples of LS1 and GM 5.3L + turbo swaps into SC's. Take a look at those as well for options?
02-13-16, 09:55 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TheLost,
If forced induction (from an M-112 supercharger or custom turbos) in a 1UZ is what you want, go with a 92-97 with the stronger rods. However you might still need to build the engine depending on how far you want to go with it. Making LSx level horsepower with a 1UZ is VERY expensive and the support is very narrow.
For the VVT-i 1UZ's, supercharging on the stock rods is probably not recommended. Great engines though.
Swapping a manual to a VVT-i 1UZ SC400 involves the same physical mating procedure as with a 92-97, only at that level of power (stock) you'd be better off with an R154 or CD009 transmission. W58's are on the edge of their reliable long term power holding with 290hp/300tq stock.
The majority (or all of) the wiring tricks were outlined in a couple of threads by Cartmill who swapped his 1998 SC300 with a W58 and managed to get the backup lights, neutral, and other ECU functions satisfied... as well as getting the CEL to turn off. He largely did this by physically removing the shift solenoids from his automatic transmission and securing them somewhere on the chassis with the wiring harness still plugged into them. They then effectively did nothing and took up space, but the VVT-i ECU was happy.
The same should apply to the 98+ SC400 VVT-i ECU. I do think at least one or two people used his solutions in their 98+ SC400's converted to manual.
As for gearing, the 3.26 with an R154 will technically not be as aggressive. a 3.77 Supra TT Auto rear diff or a 92-97 3.92 SC400 rear diff would probably be the best match for gearing with a 5-speed.
If using a CD009 transmission (I'm not sure if anyone has made a CD009 to 1UZ adapter plate and clutch/PP solution yet) the 3.26 might still be the best match.
The easiest and most proven way to go about this is, as you guessed, a 1992-997 SC400 + SC300 or MKIV W58 + LSD. Very proven and good combination.
However, again, if you're planning to go with boost it might still be better to start with a beefier transmission.
There are also examples of LS1 and GM 5.3L + turbo swaps into SC's. Take a look at those as well for options?
If forced induction (from an M-112 supercharger or custom turbos) in a 1UZ is what you want, go with a 92-97 with the stronger rods. However you might still need to build the engine depending on how far you want to go with it. Making LSx level horsepower with a 1UZ is VERY expensive and the support is very narrow.
For the VVT-i 1UZ's, supercharging on the stock rods is probably not recommended. Great engines though.
Swapping a manual to a VVT-i 1UZ SC400 involves the same physical mating procedure as with a 92-97, only at that level of power (stock) you'd be better off with an R154 or CD009 transmission. W58's are on the edge of their reliable long term power holding with 290hp/300tq stock.
The majority (or all of) the wiring tricks were outlined in a couple of threads by Cartmill who swapped his 1998 SC300 with a W58 and managed to get the backup lights, neutral, and other ECU functions satisfied... as well as getting the CEL to turn off. He largely did this by physically removing the shift solenoids from his automatic transmission and securing them somewhere on the chassis with the wiring harness still plugged into them. They then effectively did nothing and took up space, but the VVT-i ECU was happy.
The same should apply to the 98+ SC400 VVT-i ECU. I do think at least one or two people used his solutions in their 98+ SC400's converted to manual.
As for gearing, the 3.26 with an R154 will technically not be as aggressive. a 3.77 Supra TT Auto rear diff or a 92-97 3.92 SC400 rear diff would probably be the best match for gearing with a 5-speed.
If using a CD009 transmission (I'm not sure if anyone has made a CD009 to 1UZ adapter plate and clutch/PP solution yet) the 3.26 might still be the best match.
The easiest and most proven way to go about this is, as you guessed, a 1992-997 SC400 + SC300 or MKIV W58 + LSD. Very proven and good combination.
However, again, if you're planning to go with boost it might still be better to start with a beefier transmission.
There are also examples of LS1 and GM 5.3L + turbo swaps into SC's. Take a look at those as well for options?
I figure swapping the VVT-i would be a similar process to swapping the IS300 over to manual, since it has a similar A650e and uses VVT-i. I guess I could start there.
I'm avoiding the LS territory simply because I want to dabble in 1UZ territory, and because of my OCD I don't like mixing brands a ton (though I can see the benefit).
I know supra store makes an adapter plate for the CD009 to UZ but again, I don't want nissan in my Lexus.
It looks like I'll probably go with a 96/97, and start with a W58 swap. Then, once I can afford FI, I'll throw in an R154 since all the other hardware will be there and be happy. W58s are cheap enough.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Stroock639
IS - 1st Gen (2001-2005)
0
03-01-16 09:51 AM