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Hello everyone, I'm currently in the process of doing a 1uz vvti 5 speed manual swap in my 01 is300. This isn't a "help me out" thread, this is more so of a write up, Between work, life, prepping for a wedding and paying student loans, this will take me a while, to update so if there's a gap in posts just be patient more will come.
Theory: Swapping the uz into an sxe10 chassis has be done before, is430, brad bedell, wes w/ faith on wheels however, there aren't many write ups on the swap, so I'm going to cover the mechanics and physical fitment, wiring is not my forte so that job is being outsourced. For this swap I wanted the 1uz vvti engine, if I had to do it again, I would go non vvti pre 95 go to lextreme forums to see why not covering that here. 2001 IS300's only came automatic so a manual swap will also be included with this build. As for the transmission I opted for the z32 RS5r30a transmission not the cd009. why? price. Cheapest cd009 I could find was almost $800, I picked up a revised JDM z32tt 5 speed for $350. These transmissions are tough as well and should be able to handle the power of the 1uz. plus the final drive of the auto IS300 at 3.91:1 would make gearing extra short with the cd009, manual is300 final drive at 3.72:1 (1uzfe has a 3.269:1 final drive). Another note the RS5R30A (Z32 trans) is the same trans as the RB25DET engine, just with a different bell housing, and tail housing (remote shifter on z32). I got the idea from here:
So it's a strong trans, with similar gearing to our A650E, cheaper, and smaller than the cd009, so why not?
RS5R30A gearing: A650E gearing:
1st: 3.214 3.357
2nd: 1.925 2.180
3rd: 1.302 1.424
4th: 1.000 1.000
5th: 0.752 0.753
Rev: 2.275 3.431
As you can see the gearing is very similar between the 2 transmissions, also a factor for my decision.
I'm breaking this down into some basic steps.
Step 1: acquire parts. list includes:
1uz to z32 trans adapter from collins adapters
1uzfe flywheel (look on lextreme for ideas, suprastore, collins adapters they all have a model) I went with Suprastore's XAT lightweight modified 3sgte flywheel (I wanted extra response and you'll see why during the install why I chose a lightweight vs the 20lb option).
Pilot bushing, If I were using a toyota Transmission I could use a 3sgte pilot bushing (bearing 6201c3) but since I'm using a nissan trans the input shaft is larger (more girth), So I will order the pilot bushing adapter from collins (not yet ordered).
Throwout bearing adapter (since I am NOT milling the bellhousing to the trans, an extended throwout bearing is a must. Collins has these).
Clutch I ordered a SPEC stage 2 clutch from Supra Store
Clutch master cylinder (you can order the is300 master cylinder, that's fine, but if You want to save some money, look into a 80's model land cruiser or even a 95-99 celica master). they have the same bolt pattern, but the lines will be in a different location (big deal right? use a steel braided and problem solved). I purchased a new OEM master cylinder for an IS300 from the dealership not toyotlexparts.
New starter bolts. TRUST ME ON THIS. The collins adapter requires you to grind the factory starter bolts 1/8" for proper fitment. Toyota Derped really hard on the design of the uz starter. The bolts run from the rear of the engine to the front, therefore once you bolt the plate to the engine, if your starter ever goes out you must remove the trans to replace it. Well I used 2 m10x1.25x50mm bolts that I ran from the front of the starter through the holes and used nuts and lock washers to lock the starter in place. This allowed me to install the plate without having to grind bolts and if I ever need to change the starter, it'll be an easier (I didn't say it was easy, but easier) job.
installed bolts with washers
maintenance parts: You're swapping an engine, and you're not going to do the maintenance on it? DON'T DO THE SWAP, DO NOT HALF *** THIS. For $350, I got brand new toyota timing belt, water pump, drive belt, front seals (cams and crank), valve cover gaskets, tensioners, idlers, literally everything. Thank you TOYOTLEXPARTS. Because I did the starter bolts I also purchased new intake manifold gaskets (good thing too! mine were shot to hell). yay routine maintenance.
Automatic transmission emulator (yes, I searched everywhere for one of these) No one in the US supplies them. Because the 1uzfe is only made auto, we must emulate the transmission signal. You non vvti guys don't have to worry about this, only the vvti engines. If I'm to run the factory ECU which I am right now, I need to use this little guy. I ordered this off the facebook page from Russia. $100 shipped.
This is all I'm posting for now, my computer is about to die, but stay tuned, more images to come!
Forgot to include the clutch flywheel and pressure plate image. SPEC stage 2
I was a little upset when I received this. I was expecting a little more for the price,like a throwout bearing and a alignment tool, but I have an extra alignment tool and I'll get an oem Nissan to bearing so no great loss.
Other clutch options include a 3sgte for an mr2 oe celica but the splines are different, you can make a call and have one ordered and special instruction a Nissan 27t spline instead of a toyota 21t spline. But this was easier to go with.
Interesting. Please keep updating. I'm in the process of swapping a 3uz running on 1uz vvti electronics into my 90 supra. Got it started just need to fix a few gremlins. I will be swapping a 1uz into my 01 IS300 next year using the harness from a 98 GS400 so any motor fitting info you gather would be interesting. I'm keeping the auto and the GS400 ecu has e-shift capabilty, so that's a plus.
Interesting. Please keep updating. I'm in the process of swapping a 3uz running on 1uz vvti electronics into my 90 supra. Got it started just need to fix a few gremlins. I will be swapping a 1uz into my 01 IS300 next year using the harness from a 98 GS400 so any motor fitting info you gather would be interesting. I'm keeping the auto and the GS400 ecu has e-shift capabilty, so that's a plus.
Will do yota. I'll be sure document exactly what fitment issues I encounter when installing. If I remember correctly Brad Bedell had to cut his heater core pipes back an inch and a half or so which is no issue, abs relocation will be required, and just by looking at the oil pan difference between the uz and is 2j some slight (I do mean slight) hammering of the k member would be needed, all and all it won't be too hard.
Here's how it looks right now, the white on the front is aluminum oxide. It's been sitting in thethe shop since February, and I've just now got some time to start working on it.
Took the left cover off to set the engine at tdc. Doing timing belt and cam seals tonight. Stupid al oxide making my engine look horrible itll be painted black soon too.Yota if you keep the auto do a write up on how to swap output shafts in the trans. My other is needs a uz and I want to keep it auto.
Will do. It's very easy to do. I did the swap before with my cressida 1uz swap with the 7mge transmission. I'll post pics.
BTW, be sure to replace the front and rear crank seals. I always replaced the rear and a twice I skimped on replacing the front. Both times I regretted it because they soon failed, When they fail they leak severely.
Will do. It's very easy to do. I did the swap before with my cressida 1uz swap with the 7mge transmission. I'll post pics.
BTW, be sure to replace the front and rear crank seals. I always replaced the rear and a twice I skimped on replacing the front. Both times I regretted it because they soon failed, When they fail they leak severely.
Of course! I've already completed the rear main seal, just finished the crank seal this evening. I didn't put the timing belt back on because Im also changing cam seals the intake cam must come out in order to do those. Are mine leaking? No. But this is as esay as its going to get when on the stand. And I got them so why not?
Here is how she currently sits
Ignore that belt. I didn't put it on for the cam seals being changed next (lucky for me a friend is a tech at the dealer, he's giving a helping hand with those). I'm bad with miscellaneous bolts, but this engine is pretty simple, everything can only go one place which makes reassembly 10x easier.
Lucky me the timing belt on this engine wasn't that old, the thermostat was even brand new. I gave that one to my friend for his caldina engine (same part number )
It's almost 0100 and I've been at work since 8 and back again tomorrow at 8.
Tomorrow: cam seals. No one has done a write up on them for some reason. Oh joy!
Yota when I get her running I'm coming to Va, we'll autograph some asphalt.
Yota when I get her running I'm coming to Va, we'll autograph some asphalt.
That would be great! Should be three of us running 1uz VVTi swaps by then. I just figured out the last gremlin in my 1uz supra swap. It would not rev above 2k and I figured out that the afm and oxygen sensors were not getting 12 volt power. Fixed it and she runs perfect.Just need to finish up the cooling lines and I can put her on the road. Two of my buddies are now bugging me to help them with thier 1uz vvti swaps. I noticed you felt that the non-vvti 1uz would have been a better choice but I have found that the wiring is no more difficult. The vvti is the best choice if you are not gonna boost it. If you want more displacement and more torque, the 4.3 (3uz) can be run with the 1uz vvti electronics. That's what I did with my supra swap. If you have the ecu and matching key, your swap will be easy. Even easier if you have the GS400 engine harness because the harness is configured similar to your original 2jz harness and the ecu is located in the same place as the IS300. I suspect that only repinning connectors is needed to get the motor running.
That would be great! Should be three of us running 1uz VVTi swaps by then. I just figured out the last gremlin in my 1uz supra swap. It would not rev above 2k and I figured out that the afm and oxygen sensors were not getting 12 volt power. Fixed it and she runs perfect.Just need to finish up the cooling lines and I can put her on the road. Two of my buddies are now bugging me to help them with thier 1uz vvti swaps. I noticed you felt that the non-vvti 1uz would have been a better choice but I have found that the wiring is no more difficult. The vvti is the best choice if you are not gonna boost it. If you want more displacement and more torque, the 4.3 (3uz) can be run with the 1uz vvti electronics. That's what I did with my supra swap. If you have the ecu and matching key, your swap will be easy. Even easier if you have the GS400 engine harness because the harness is configured similar to your original 2jz harness and the ecu is located in the same place as the IS300. I suspect that only repinning connectors is needed to get the motor running.
Yeah the non vvti doesn't have near as many electronics (immobilizer, limp mode associated with missing auto trans signal, obdII), not to mention parts are slightly cheaper for maintenance and such. I considered the 3uz but the lowest priced 3uz I could find was $2500 shipped for the swap (excluding auto trans). I spent less than $700 for a complete vvti 1uz (wiring, ecu, auto trans). Reseeding the ECU shouldn't be too difficult, I can send it to "key masters" for re programming, OR a quick google search yields this
an EEprom programmer and SOIC-8 Chip clip cost me about $14 off ebay, and the software to flash is free. I'll try this method first and see how it comes out.
My ARP bolts came in today, I can't use the 4age bolts that came with the flywheel because of the shorter splines on the z32 trans. I'll have to "stack" the flywheel on the flexplate like this"
That was from a cd009 to a 2jz build.
in order to have enough gap to cover the shorter splines. I was skeptic of this, but Collins assured me it works for his set up and he knows a little more about the uz manual conversion than I do, so I trust his opinion.
This is why I rather have the non vvti. Stupid cam seals require the intake cam to be removed.
This is a license plate bolt. It is REQUIRED to do the seal. The exhaust cam and intake have a scissor mesh. Well the exhaust cam has 2 gears spring loaded, removing the intake cam releases tension and they will snap on you. You'll have to fight them to mesh properly again. It is recommended by tis to use this when changing seals. All you sc gs ls lx gx people please do this. Not a repost just expressing my discontent.
Love the "not a repost..." pic!
Been there. Done that.
lol those things were a pain. I was debating strongly on not doing them, but the engine is on a stand so why not? I even mentioned earlier not to half *** this job. But Looking back on it, it's actually not that bad (at least when the engine isn't in the car) It took me around 4 hours to do the left bank seal because I was nervous, took me less than 30 minutes to do the right bank because I knew what to do. Aligning the cams was actually easy (there's 2 dots on the back of the exhaust cam gear that match the intake).
Did a little more research today about gearing. The IS300 auto has a 3.91 final drive ratio, this is going to suck for hwy cruising speeds and a V8 engine. The GS430 GS400 SC400 differential can be swapped, but the housing is different. I'm not trying to hack my sub frame to get lower gears. NO PROBLEM! I got it solved.
Toyota Altezza SXE10 uses a "F" type rear differential. Translated this is an 8" differential 10 bolt ring and 27 spline pinion. The 1999-2001 Toyota 4 Runner ran a 3.58 gearing with the "F" type 8" differential. It too is a 10 bolt ring but with 43/12 teeth for a 3.58 final drive. Difference is that is has a 29 spline pinion where as mine has a 27. No problem again, because I found this gem of a site.
Around $300, in parts, I can convert my 3.91 LSD rear end to a 3.58 LSD rear end. Now I'm just waiting on my lottery investment to start maturing.
using this calculator with my current set up I should be at 79.5 MPH @ 3000 RPM with my current 3.91 gearing with my IS350 18" wheels running 255/40-18 tires (26.2" tires).
now with the 3.58 It would drop about 250 to 79.6 MPH @ 2750 RPM. I believe this would fit my build a little better than the burnout monster she's going to be.
Anyway, no updates right now, because I'm waiting on UPS, FedEx and USPS to deliver my parts. Random question any of you know the diameter of the heater core pipes at the firewall? I got a Crazy idea.
I saw on my instagram last night a friend in Russia is selling his TRD uz supercharger, so that's a definitely maybe, and to address the fuel issue, got it covered,
Did a little more research today about gearing. The IS300 auto has a 3.91 final drive ratio, this is going to suck for hwy cruising speeds and a V8 engine.
That was one of the reasons I did the Aristo swap in a GS4 years ago (other was auto leveling HID's). The rear was 3.26. I could hit about 62mph in 1st and around 100mph in 2nd. So, quarter mile shifted once down the track and once just as I crossed the line.
Update: 9/18 just got an email confirming shipment of my pilot bushing and throwout bearing adapter. It should be here Tuesday, but know usps and my history with them probably October 3rd. Anyway, Tuesday I'm going to start pulling the dash to help make the clutch pedal install easier. Ordering motor mounts since mine are shot. Debating on going after market hydraulic mounts because I can get them for $80 shipped (using an promo code) but haven't pulled the trigger on that yet. I got quotedb $208.00 for new oem.
The is this uz is being installed in was not properl cared for. There's a cheap lacquer based (econo not even maaco) paint job. Lacquer paints dry through evaporation and can cause alligator cracks in acrylic and urethane paints when they cure. Great...now I get to sand, seal, stack, and prime then paint. Do I know how to do this? No, but youtube university is great.
Check out this interior. Looks like chipotle met stomach flu.
And about 2 hours of scrubbing with degreaser, shampoo all done by hand no machine except for a shop vac it now looks like this.
Not too shabby. I'll be dying the carpet so it'll look better once I get it back on the road. I got some stripper scented air freshener from chemical guys, it smells like daddy issues, bad decisions, and awesome.
09-04-16, 08:59 PM
1uzfe vvti RS5R30A swap
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