2jz na-t intercooler size and choice?
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2jz na-t intercooler size and choice?
im going na-t and i need to know what you guys think, only boosting 10 psi or less, what size piping? 2.5 or 3 and intercooler size? whats the biggest intercooler without having to modify anything? and should i go single side or regular? which is better? which is more responsive? i know its a lot of questions but im trying to order this stuff by tonite
#6
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honestly you need to do some research ..ive been spending weeks searching trying to find the best setup for myself..while keeping it as cheap as possible(while retaining reliability) and a supra tt smic with plastic induction piece seems to be the best set up for me(a stock 2jzge motor at 7-9lbs)
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#10
1UZFE/2JZGTE
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What are your long term goals power wise? One of the lessons I've learned during my time here is planning ahead so you don't get stuff twice. 10psi or less will get old quickly and once the bug bites which it will you will want more boost which is more fuel and supporting mods aka more money lol. I would just go 3" now and be done.
#11
Lead Lap
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^ i tend to agree and disagree with this thought..
most people will want more power thats true.
however at what cost?...you may try to plan ahead but seriously if you're going over 400whp..theres a LOT more to get at that time..where most people are on a budget and where they might want a future goal of 400-600whp its just not affordable any time soon..piping/ic imo is something thats fairly cheap and easy to change out..
so for myself when i put together the first setup on the car its going to be optimized for 300-330whp since if i go any higher..fuel/transmission/ems/head gasket/head bolts will all need to be addressed and that adds a HUGE amount of money on top of the price
so imo if your goal is 300whp now and cant afford to buy/upgrade transmission fuel etc etc now then optimize the kit for what is REALISTIC to you..everyone wants a 1000whp car but be realistic in what your plans are and build for that..when you can afford to upgrade..do so accordingly..
imo its best to have a well optimized kit vs something you "want" and bigger is not always better
most people will want more power thats true.
however at what cost?...you may try to plan ahead but seriously if you're going over 400whp..theres a LOT more to get at that time..where most people are on a budget and where they might want a future goal of 400-600whp its just not affordable any time soon..piping/ic imo is something thats fairly cheap and easy to change out..
so for myself when i put together the first setup on the car its going to be optimized for 300-330whp since if i go any higher..fuel/transmission/ems/head gasket/head bolts will all need to be addressed and that adds a HUGE amount of money on top of the price
so imo if your goal is 300whp now and cant afford to buy/upgrade transmission fuel etc etc now then optimize the kit for what is REALISTIC to you..everyone wants a 1000whp car but be realistic in what your plans are and build for that..when you can afford to upgrade..do so accordingly..
imo its best to have a well optimized kit vs something you "want" and bigger is not always better
#12
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^ i tend to agree and disagree with this thought..
most people will want more power thats true.
however at what cost?...you may try to plan ahead but seriously if you're going over 400whp..theres a LOT more to get at that time..where most people are on a budget and where they might want a future goal of 400-600whp its just not affordable any time soon..piping/ic imo is something thats fairly cheap and easy to change out..
so for myself when i put together the first setup on the car its going to be optimized for 300-330whp since if i go any higher..fuel/transmission/ems/head gasket/head bolts will all need to be addressed and that adds a HUGE amount of money on top of the price
so imo if your goal is 300whp now and cant afford to buy/upgrade transmission fuel etc etc now then optimize the kit for what is REALISTIC to you..everyone wants a 1000whp car but be realistic in what your plans are and build for that..when you can afford to upgrade..do so accordingly..
imo its best to have a well optimized kit vs something you "want" and bigger is not always better
most people will want more power thats true.
however at what cost?...you may try to plan ahead but seriously if you're going over 400whp..theres a LOT more to get at that time..where most people are on a budget and where they might want a future goal of 400-600whp its just not affordable any time soon..piping/ic imo is something thats fairly cheap and easy to change out..
so for myself when i put together the first setup on the car its going to be optimized for 300-330whp since if i go any higher..fuel/transmission/ems/head gasket/head bolts will all need to be addressed and that adds a HUGE amount of money on top of the price
so imo if your goal is 300whp now and cant afford to buy/upgrade transmission fuel etc etc now then optimize the kit for what is REALISTIC to you..everyone wants a 1000whp car but be realistic in what your plans are and build for that..when you can afford to upgrade..do so accordingly..
imo its best to have a well optimized kit vs something you "want" and bigger is not always better
Now whenever i sit down and think about it............,
Do you know how many people on here went na-T but didn't do it right or wanted to be cheap ? i am a die hard Na-T believer .
It didn't work out and just they just Hate the word Na-T haha.
I try to tell from experience about your Intercooler setup ,but you already had your mind set which is fine.
All of all us came along way, so don't make the same mistake some of us made.
When i first started my goal was 280rwhp on my 1JZ, now i want 1000rwhp SC no am J/K but seriously.
You wanna have room to grow, don't build your car to the edge it will cost you more at the end of the day.
#13
Lead Lap
iTrader: (7)
^ i do understand this and i guess if the money is there then thats fine..
mine for instance..will be on the edge yes thats correct..but it will stay that way for a while..not like 6 months to a year more like 1-3yrs..so for me and some others its just not reasonable to buy so far in advanced...i have other priorities that need to be met..house + ring/wedding etc in the near future and i just want to get some more umph out of my car now..so ill do it cheaper and smaller power but i think ill be very happy with it.
like said i do understand the goals..
but theres down sides to everything..
as far as the intercooler..the supra smic has held ~500whp on multiple setups..the real thing is how is it being driven that matters more then anything
a lot of people get a fmic because they automatically think that the fmic is more efficient because of its larger area..however this is not always true..for a couple reasons..usually cheap ebay fmic(which is a huge choice because of price) aren't made very well..this should be a given..the other thing being they block the radiator (a problem for a lot of road course racers) the other thing is they dont have any induction to help direct flow through them so a lot of air goes around the fmic instead of through it(least resistance)
so really when it comes down to it..the stock tt smic is a very efficient choice for daily driven car that may see a few drag strip passes or road course racing..(ill be strictly street driven)
mine for instance..will be on the edge yes thats correct..but it will stay that way for a while..not like 6 months to a year more like 1-3yrs..so for me and some others its just not reasonable to buy so far in advanced...i have other priorities that need to be met..house + ring/wedding etc in the near future and i just want to get some more umph out of my car now..so ill do it cheaper and smaller power but i think ill be very happy with it.
like said i do understand the goals..
but theres down sides to everything..
as far as the intercooler..the supra smic has held ~500whp on multiple setups..the real thing is how is it being driven that matters more then anything
a lot of people get a fmic because they automatically think that the fmic is more efficient because of its larger area..however this is not always true..for a couple reasons..usually cheap ebay fmic(which is a huge choice because of price) aren't made very well..this should be a given..the other thing being they block the radiator (a problem for a lot of road course racers) the other thing is they dont have any induction to help direct flow through them so a lot of air goes around the fmic instead of through it(least resistance)
so really when it comes down to it..the stock tt smic is a very efficient choice for daily driven car that may see a few drag strip passes or road course racing..(ill be strictly street driven)
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