CRuby

iTrader: (1)

Can the #1 oil pan be removed with out pulling the engine & automatic trans?
I want to reseal the pan while I have lots of other stuff out of the way.
I disassembled to replace water pump, timing belt, & lower control arm bushings. I've dropped the #1 oil pan & have also removed cross beam that supports the lower control arms. Manual says to pull engine & trans to get #1 pan off. Is that necessary, or can I get it off from below?

CRuby

iTrader: (1)

No replies so far! I welcome some advise from the experts out there. Especially from anyone that removed the #2 oil pan on a 1UZ.
Doing lots of neglected maintenance on a '92 SC400 with 175K miles. Valve cover gaskets, Timing belt, water pump, trans gaskets, lower control arm bushings, shocks, and oil pan gaskets. Oil & dirt was caked over most of the engine, so I want to replace as many gaskets as I can readily get to. I easily removed the #2 oil pan (smaller one on bottom), but am hesitant on starting to unbolt the #1 pan. Not sure if I'll be able to drop it from below. As I mentioned before, both lower control arms are off & I pulled the supporting cross beam. So, is it possible to drop #1 pan from below?

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

Are you removing the upper (aluminum) or lower oil pan (steel)? Either one will not require removing the engine or tranny. The block is still on the engine mounts. You'll need to remove the steel crossmember to increase clearance for the oil pan to drop down. Or you can at least lower the crossmember. Use the propane torch and carefully heat up the silicone around the edge. Then slowly tap with it a mallet and remove it. If you don't heat it up, it'll take forever to remove it. Make sure there's no gas leak.

CRuby

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Stevechumo. Lower steel pan already off. Steel cross member is also off. It's the upper aluminum pan I was asking about. Not sure this joint was leaking since there was oil over everything. Since I'm changing all the other potential leak locations I wanted to do this one too (assuming I can remove it). I'll take another look around to judge whether I want to wave a torch around down there. However, I've been getting lots of use out of my torch lately as I've used it for softening locktite on rear trunk support (the one right next to the gas tank), & burning out the lower control arm rubber bushings. It goes without saying that I don't want to do more harm than good.

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure if the upper oil pan can leak. It looks very solid to me for all 1UZ that I saw. Before take it down, check the front main seal. The rear main seal can only be done with the tranny & flywheel off. Also, check the cam plug seals.

CRuby

iTrader: (1)

I need some tips relative to the cam seal replacement. Front of engine torn down for timimg belt, water pump change. TBelt currently removed. Having trouble loosening camshaft pulley bolt. Both ar RH threads right? I don't want camshaft to rotate while trying to loosen bolt. I have an impact wrench but didn't use it yet as I need to keep shaft from turning.
Any helpful hints on loosening the camshaft pulley bolt?

Next, once pulley is off, do I need to completely remove the cam shaft? Or can I just remove the front C bracket on the shaft & remove/replace the oil seal with shaft installed?

stevechumo

iTrader: (5)

The cam bolts have regular threads, not reversible threads. Only the hydraulic fan pump and the tensioner pulley have reversible threads. Those cam bolts are tough, but they're easy to be removed by a powerful impact wrench. You should put on the timing belt, so it can hold the cams not to move during the torque. The cams will be messed up anyway when you take out the timing belt. It's not too hard with the timing alignment. Take a pic of your cams because there's a trick that I'll need to show you, before removing it.

718murdoc

Had to bump an old thread for some advice on changing the lower oil pan gasket (FIPG) I was hoping someone out there has a link to a tutorial on how it's done. I'm just a handy man DIY'er and I've never changed a gasket like this before. I've been reading older threads, so I have an idea of the basics required but I need to know is there a cork gasket available for the 1UZ-FE And do you have to remove anything else to get to the lower oil pan?

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

I'm pretty sure you can do it without removing anything else, you just gotta find a way to make it slide out somehow like the tranny oil pan. I might be doing this once I get my SC underwashed cause there's just alot of oil under there, so if its really leaking from my oil pan seal I'm gonna do it.

718murdoc

I hope you do it before me and post the results I plan on getting this done before Friday...
sick of those damn oil spots in my back yard

CRuby

iTrader: (1)

From what I recall, there was a steel crossmember that I had removed, while doing other front end work, & I think it could interfere with lower oil pan removal. Pretty sure it came apart & went back together with no gasket, just RTV. I chose not to mess with the upper pan & as stevechumo indicated, it is pretty stout & hasn't leaked a drop since reassy. My leaks were front & rear main seals, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, & maybe more that I forgot. Sorry no pics.

718murdoc

Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep a look out for the front and rear main seals (knock on wood).