Lost on the turbo size to get. Please help.
#1
Lost on the turbo size to get. Please help.
Hey guys, like the title says I am lost on what to be looking for.
Here is a small list of what I am going to be running:
2jz-ge, 272 cams Int/Exh, Full 3" exhaust system, 3" down pipe, 3" intercooler pipping, 4" core intercooler,880 cc injectors,1.3mm MHG, Q45 TB, MSII EMS, and going to be running on pump gas. My goal would be around 500 hp or over to the wheels. I think it's doable but... I can be wrong. Just need to start looking for a turbo for the streets that will be able to do this. I would hope to be around 15-18 LBS of boost. TIA for any suggestions.
Here is a small list of what I am going to be running:
2jz-ge, 272 cams Int/Exh, Full 3" exhaust system, 3" down pipe, 3" intercooler pipping, 4" core intercooler,880 cc injectors,1.3mm MHG, Q45 TB, MSII EMS, and going to be running on pump gas. My goal would be around 500 hp or over to the wheels. I think it's doable but... I can be wrong. Just need to start looking for a turbo for the streets that will be able to do this. I would hope to be around 15-18 LBS of boost. TIA for any suggestions.
#2
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Hey guys, like the title says I am lost on what to be looking for.
Here is a small list of what I am going to be running:
2jz-ge, 272 cams Int/Exh, Full 3" exhaust system, 3" down pipe, 3" intercooler pipping, 4" core intercooler,880 cc injectors,1.3mm MHG, Q45 TB, MSII EMS, and going to be running on pump gas. My goal would be around 500 hp or over to the wheels. I think it's doable but... I can be wrong. Just need to start looking for a turbo for the streets that will be able to do this. I would hope to be around 15-18 LBS of boost. TIA for any suggestions.
Here is a small list of what I am going to be running:
2jz-ge, 272 cams Int/Exh, Full 3" exhaust system, 3" down pipe, 3" intercooler pipping, 4" core intercooler,880 cc injectors,1.3mm MHG, Q45 TB, MSII EMS, and going to be running on pump gas. My goal would be around 500 hp or over to the wheels. I think it's doable but... I can be wrong. Just need to start looking for a turbo for the streets that will be able to do this. I would hope to be around 15-18 LBS of boost. TIA for any suggestions.
-mk4 550cc injectors w/resistor
-Denso mk4 tt fuel pump (walbro is trash)
-SAFCII
-18lbs of boost will give you 500+/- to the wheel
buttttttttt since you have 880cc injectors, 4 in interecooler, ems, 272s, yada yada...i would personally suggest a turbo in the 71mm-74mm range. that way you have 500+ to the wheel on pump and mid 700s on race/e85...again, thats just my opinion. Good luck.
-Zeeshaun
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"2jz-ge, 272 cams Int/Exh, Full 3" exhaust system, 3" down pipe, 3" intercooler pipping, 4" core intercooler,880 cc injectors,1.3mm MHG"
keep the standard throttle body and ADD
garrett gt3071r with 1.0 exhaust housing @ 20psi
external wastegate
eboost2
2.5" to intercooler then 3" from intercooler to throttle (speed up the airflow)
adj cam gears
Emanage ultimate Piggyback computer (plugin harness)
looking at about 270rwkw to 300rwkw
keep the standard throttle body and ADD
garrett gt3071r with 1.0 exhaust housing @ 20psi
external wastegate
eboost2
2.5" to intercooler then 3" from intercooler to throttle (speed up the airflow)
adj cam gears
Emanage ultimate Piggyback computer (plugin harness)
looking at about 270rwkw to 300rwkw
Last edited by v8soarer91; 10-31-09 at 11:06 PM. Reason: spel
#4
Lexus Test Driver
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I have no idea why they're telling you to ditch the M/S for a POS piggyback, or why you would recommend not going with a Q45. Adjustable cam gears!?!?!?!!? Even though the M/S isn't as refined with end user software it's still a very capable stand alone if you know the ins and outs.
I think your list is just fine minus the 272s. You might want to consider the 264s, they fit your goals with a more usuable powerband.
You could run a wide range of turbos. GT42s (either of them), 62, 67, 35r, etc. Just figure out what you want your powerband to be.
Last edited by 2jzlex; 11-01-09 at 08:22 AM.
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I agree that the 264's would be a better choice or maybe even look at the GSC S1's. Imo the pt67 would be a good choice. Its a good all a round turbo and the billet wheel 67 with the correct supporting mods on c16 are making in the mid 700's on the gte but like stated above its all in where you want the power band. Also I would recommend uping to atleast a 3.5" from the dp back.
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I agree that the 264's would be a better choice or maybe even look at the GSC S1's. Imo the pt67 would be a good choice. Its a good all a round turbo and the billet wheel 67 with the correct supporting mods on c16 are making in the mid 700's on the gte but like stated above its all in where you want the power band. Also I would recommend uping to atleast a 3.5" from the dp back.
#7
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if i am reading this thread correctly you are trying to setup a ge motor
if correct , there is some mis info being posted in here
cam choices to my knowledge on non vvti motor are from ttc 268deg ( which is what i and wickedsc have) and ttc 280 deg , bc makes 272 and 280 for vvti ge platform.. be careful on rushing in on adding cams to the mix.. if you are not running a mid to large frame turbo , cams can actually hurt you down low unless its a hwy screamer you are going after
as far as engine management , i have said this before and will say it again , on ge powerplant having full , i mean FULL control of timing and fuel and setting up a defined and closley monitered knock map is critical to the longevity of your project lasting .. AEM , Haltech, ems stinger motec are the current choices for standalones
when you say 1.3mm headgasket , are u swapping in gte pistons as well if not and you r using ge pistons , this approach will lower your compression down to about 9:2:1 which is boost friendly , but for 500 rwhp give or take you better make sure you spend the coin for engine management because timing is real critical at that compression...if you are using gte pistons then you are very safe , still need a solid tuine though
make sure you are running 2 pumps wether it be 2 intanks ( which not what i recc or use) or 1 intak and 1 inline , use at least a -6an line from tank to aftermarket larger rail to maintain consistent pressure under sustained boost
2.5 or 3 in intercooler piping is fine , in fact theres a reason why boostlogic provides 2.5 in piping all around ( thats what i use) it promotes better spool and tb response do to the velocity of air moving as opposed to going larger that takes more to fill tube
to hit around 500rwhp on around 18psi , you will need a larger turbo more like a 71mm but your tradeoff will be lag , you really cant have the best of both worlds
although a 67dbb ( and i wouldnt waste my money on billet type unless you plane on running it in the mid 20" as thats its eff range) will spool quick and at about 20psi on a solid tune will get you around 500 ish as thats where i am currently at in the low 500's without the cams in as yet
to me on a 2jz the 67dbb is the perfect street turbo for very usuable power under the curve up to redline ( of course much better to redline when cams go in)
if correct , there is some mis info being posted in here
cam choices to my knowledge on non vvti motor are from ttc 268deg ( which is what i and wickedsc have) and ttc 280 deg , bc makes 272 and 280 for vvti ge platform.. be careful on rushing in on adding cams to the mix.. if you are not running a mid to large frame turbo , cams can actually hurt you down low unless its a hwy screamer you are going after
as far as engine management , i have said this before and will say it again , on ge powerplant having full , i mean FULL control of timing and fuel and setting up a defined and closley monitered knock map is critical to the longevity of your project lasting .. AEM , Haltech, ems stinger motec are the current choices for standalones
when you say 1.3mm headgasket , are u swapping in gte pistons as well if not and you r using ge pistons , this approach will lower your compression down to about 9:2:1 which is boost friendly , but for 500 rwhp give or take you better make sure you spend the coin for engine management because timing is real critical at that compression...if you are using gte pistons then you are very safe , still need a solid tuine though
make sure you are running 2 pumps wether it be 2 intanks ( which not what i recc or use) or 1 intak and 1 inline , use at least a -6an line from tank to aftermarket larger rail to maintain consistent pressure under sustained boost
2.5 or 3 in intercooler piping is fine , in fact theres a reason why boostlogic provides 2.5 in piping all around ( thats what i use) it promotes better spool and tb response do to the velocity of air moving as opposed to going larger that takes more to fill tube
to hit around 500rwhp on around 18psi , you will need a larger turbo more like a 71mm but your tradeoff will be lag , you really cant have the best of both worlds
although a 67dbb ( and i wouldnt waste my money on billet type unless you plane on running it in the mid 20" as thats its eff range) will spool quick and at about 20psi on a solid tune will get you around 500 ish as thats where i am currently at in the low 500's without the cams in as yet
to me on a 2jz the 67dbb is the perfect street turbo for very usuable power under the curve up to redline ( of course much better to redline when cams go in)
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#8
cam choices to my knowledge on non vvti motor are from ttc 268deg ( which is what i and wickedsc have) and ttc 280 deg , bc makes 272 and 280 for vvti ge platform.. be careful on rushing in on adding cams to the mix.. if you are not running a mid to large frame turbo , cams can actually hurt you down low unless its a hwy screamer you are going after
as far as engine management , i have said this before and will say it again , on ge powerplant having full , i mean FULL control of timing and fuel and setting up a defined and closley monitered knock map is critical to the longevity of your project lasting .. AEM , Haltech, ems stinger motec are the current choices for standalones
when you say 1.3mm headgasket , are u swapping in gte pistons as well if not and you r using ge pistons , this approach will lower your compression down to about 9:2:1 which is boost friendly , but for 500 rwhp give or take you better make sure you spend the coin for engine management because timing is real critical at that compression...if you are using gte pistons then you are very safe , still need a solid tuine though
although a 67dbb ( and i wouldnt waste my money on billet type unless you plane on running it in the mid 20" as thats its eff range) will spool quick and at about 20psi on a solid tune will get you around 500 ish as thats where i am currently at in the low 500's without the cams in as yet
to me on a 2jz the 67dbb is the perfect street turbo for very usuable power under the curve up to redline ( of course much better to redline when cams go in)
to me on a 2jz the 67dbb is the perfect street turbo for very usuable power under the curve up to redline ( of course much better to redline when cams go in)
Thank you guys for your input so far and more would be helpful.
#9
Are you serious?!?!
I have no idea why they're telling you to ditch the M/S for a POS piggyback, or why you would recommend not going with a Q45. Adjustable cam gears!?!?!?!!? Even though the M/S isn't as refined with end user software it's still a very capable stand alone if you know the ins and outs.
I think your list is just fine minus the 272s. You might want to consider the 264s, they fit your goals with a more usuable powerband.
You could run a wide range of turbos. GT42s (either of them), 62, 67, 35r, etc. Just figure out what you want your powerband to be.
I have no idea why they're telling you to ditch the M/S for a POS piggyback, or why you would recommend not going with a Q45. Adjustable cam gears!?!?!?!!? Even though the M/S isn't as refined with end user software it's still a very capable stand alone if you know the ins and outs.
I think your list is just fine minus the 272s. You might want to consider the 264s, they fit your goals with a more usuable powerband.
You could run a wide range of turbos. GT42s (either of them), 62, 67, 35r, etc. Just figure out what you want your powerband to be.
I will look have to make a choice soon on when I would like the boost to kick in.
I agree that the 264's would be a better choice or maybe even look at the GSC S1's. Imo the pt67 would be a good choice. Its a good all a round turbo and the billet wheel 67 with the correct supporting mods on c16 are making in the mid 700's on the gte but like stated above its all in where you want the power band. Also I would recommend uping to atleast a 3.5" from the dp back.
holly crap those are some insane numbers.
#10
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
Actually I'm hoping to break that number. The MKIV I just finished for a customer made 724 at 23 pds with a slipping clutch on the corn.... semi-tuned
If I were you I'd mate the TTC 268s with a 35R or a 62, stock TT H/G with some ARP bolts and take it to town. You don't want to do TT pistons with a TT H/G on an NA head because of the design of the combustion chamber. Either do the TT pistons with stock size NA MLS H/G, or TT H/G with forged stock NA pistons.
Last edited by 2jzlex; 11-02-09 at 10:07 AM.
#11
Lexus Test Driver
gt3071?
Not huge amount of lag, good power.
If you're sliding it, it won't be as quick to the punch as a gt2835 but you can just slightly hold the brake after the apex and slam the pedal to the ground creating MONSTER smoke.
HA. :P goodluck bro!
Not huge amount of lag, good power.
If you're sliding it, it won't be as quick to the punch as a gt2835 but you can just slightly hold the brake after the apex and slam the pedal to the ground creating MONSTER smoke.
HA. :P goodluck bro!
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