LS430 UL looking to add a Sub question..
11-24-14, 06:44 PM
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LS430 UL looking to add a Sub question..
Hey everyone,
I searched for a while now and still came up with nothing, only thing I can find is for other model lexus'.
I'm looking to add a Sub to my LS and I've located the speaker wires in the trunk attached to the stock amp, I'm going to add a LOC that would give me RCA's to hook up the aftermarket amp, just looking for the wiring diagram or colors/names of the wires around the amp. Specifically the rear speaker +/- wires. I have Mark Levinson package as well.
Or, if you've already added a sub yourself to your LS and know which speaker wires I should tap into. My LOC is for a 2-channel amp, so just need 2 sets (rear L+/- and rear R+/-) to tap into.
Any help would be appreciated and I'll continue to search,
Thank you for you time,
Jaime
I searched for a while now and still came up with nothing, only thing I can find is for other model lexus'.
I'm looking to add a Sub to my LS and I've located the speaker wires in the trunk attached to the stock amp, I'm going to add a LOC that would give me RCA's to hook up the aftermarket amp, just looking for the wiring diagram or colors/names of the wires around the amp. Specifically the rear speaker +/- wires. I have Mark Levinson package as well.
Or, if you've already added a sub yourself to your LS and know which speaker wires I should tap into. My LOC is for a 2-channel amp, so just need 2 sets (rear L+/- and rear R+/-) to tap into.
Any help would be appreciated and I'll continue to search,
Thank you for you time,
Jaime
11-24-14, 09:36 PM
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I'm going to try that Rush, the issue is that the stock sub only has 1 set of wires and my LOC has 2 sets, not sure if i can use it, I'll try and report back.
11-26-14, 12:27 AM
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I am currently in the middle of this same exact project and running into problems. I have been researching this issue for hours on end on Club Lexus and throughout Google, so I wanted to give you the benefit of what I have found out. You may run into the same issues. I used to install car stereos and competition sound systems in high school and my college days, so I have quite a bit of experience with car audio wiring, fabrication, etc. Of course they are doing unbelievable things now in this industry that is way over my head now....
I have a 2001 Ultra Luxury with Mark Levinson. I first tried upgrading the blown woofer with a Polk audio woofer, but that was unsatisfactory because even if you wire it in series, it is only 8 ohms and the ML amp wants 12 ohms. I decided to go with an aftermarket amp and sub setup instead. I am using an Audio Control LC2i for my LOC. I have an Alpine MRV-500 amp and also had a JL Audio Basswedge C212-WXv2 ((2) 12" subs). I tapped the wires coming out of the amp. I know the exact colors for you:
Gray: switched 12V+
Blue (pin 15): (L) woofer (-)
Black (pin 14): (R) woofer (-)
Light Green (pin 6): (L) woofer (+)
Yellow (pin 5): (R) woofer (+)
If you desire to tap the woofer directly, you are only going to get two wires. Apparently this ML amp bridges the subwoofer output, so those four wires terminate at the wiring connector to the ML stock sub. The yellow wire becomes the red wire, which is actually (-), to the sub, and the light green wire, which is actually (+), becomes the black wire to the sub. The other two blue and black wires from the amp terminate at the connector. If you want to use the the light green and yellow wires at the amp, it will be the same as using the two wires at the sub.
Here is where the problem starts. Once you get everything hooked up, the amplifier apparently has a protection circuit that cuts off the bass signal, so you will be rocking for a few short moments, then the protection kicks in and the bass doesn't work anymore until you turn it down. I initially used all four sub wires coming from the amp, but then I read that the amp wants to see a 12 ohm load for it to be a stable output because our stock sub is 12 ohm. So as suggested, I used ONLY the two sub wires (light green and yellow, which is the same as the black and red wires going to the old sub) and added a 12 ohm, 100W resistor between them, before I then split the signal back into four wires, going into the LC2i. This resistor is kind of a pain to get BTW. I called almost every electronic parts store in the greater Los Angeles and Orange County areas without success. I ended up getting one on Amazon with next day shipping.
This signal going this route became rather strong and I had to turn down the bass level input control on the LC2i and the gain on the Alpine amp. Accubass has been turned off the entire time BTW. However, I still have the amp protection circuit problem.....
So now I am going to try tapping the (L) and (R) rear speaker outputs instead (which has been suggested by a number of users on this forum) that would not require the 12 ohm, 100W resistor. I will let you know how that turns out. I know the wire colors/pin locations for those wires as well if you decide to go that route:
Red (pin 10): (R) rear speaker (-)
Yellow (pin 11): (L) rear speaker (-)
White (pin 3): (R) rear speaker (+)
Black (pin 4): (L) rear speaker (+)
If anyone who reads this happens to know what I can do to prevent the protection circuit from coming on on the ML subwoofer output, I would certainly appreciate it. I am spending WAY too much time on supplementing the bass output of this car. The factory JBL/Navigation system of my 2011 Toyota Camry SE (with (4) 6 x 9's) kicks the *** and wipes the floor of this stupid Mark Levinson system. I should be knocking everything loose with (2) 12's, but it doesn't even come close.
Good luck
I have a 2001 Ultra Luxury with Mark Levinson. I first tried upgrading the blown woofer with a Polk audio woofer, but that was unsatisfactory because even if you wire it in series, it is only 8 ohms and the ML amp wants 12 ohms. I decided to go with an aftermarket amp and sub setup instead. I am using an Audio Control LC2i for my LOC. I have an Alpine MRV-500 amp and also had a JL Audio Basswedge C212-WXv2 ((2) 12" subs). I tapped the wires coming out of the amp. I know the exact colors for you:
Gray: switched 12V+
Blue (pin 15): (L) woofer (-)
Black (pin 14): (R) woofer (-)
Light Green (pin 6): (L) woofer (+)
Yellow (pin 5): (R) woofer (+)
If you desire to tap the woofer directly, you are only going to get two wires. Apparently this ML amp bridges the subwoofer output, so those four wires terminate at the wiring connector to the ML stock sub. The yellow wire becomes the red wire, which is actually (-), to the sub, and the light green wire, which is actually (+), becomes the black wire to the sub. The other two blue and black wires from the amp terminate at the connector. If you want to use the the light green and yellow wires at the amp, it will be the same as using the two wires at the sub.
Here is where the problem starts. Once you get everything hooked up, the amplifier apparently has a protection circuit that cuts off the bass signal, so you will be rocking for a few short moments, then the protection kicks in and the bass doesn't work anymore until you turn it down. I initially used all four sub wires coming from the amp, but then I read that the amp wants to see a 12 ohm load for it to be a stable output because our stock sub is 12 ohm. So as suggested, I used ONLY the two sub wires (light green and yellow, which is the same as the black and red wires going to the old sub) and added a 12 ohm, 100W resistor between them, before I then split the signal back into four wires, going into the LC2i. This resistor is kind of a pain to get BTW. I called almost every electronic parts store in the greater Los Angeles and Orange County areas without success. I ended up getting one on Amazon with next day shipping.
This signal going this route became rather strong and I had to turn down the bass level input control on the LC2i and the gain on the Alpine amp. Accubass has been turned off the entire time BTW. However, I still have the amp protection circuit problem.....
So now I am going to try tapping the (L) and (R) rear speaker outputs instead (which has been suggested by a number of users on this forum) that would not require the 12 ohm, 100W resistor. I will let you know how that turns out. I know the wire colors/pin locations for those wires as well if you decide to go that route:
Red (pin 10): (R) rear speaker (-)
Yellow (pin 11): (L) rear speaker (-)
White (pin 3): (R) rear speaker (+)
Black (pin 4): (L) rear speaker (+)
If anyone who reads this happens to know what I can do to prevent the protection circuit from coming on on the ML subwoofer output, I would certainly appreciate it. I am spending WAY too much time on supplementing the bass output of this car. The factory JBL/Navigation system of my 2011 Toyota Camry SE (with (4) 6 x 9's) kicks the *** and wipes the floor of this stupid Mark Levinson system. I should be knocking everything loose with (2) 12's, but it doesn't even come close.
Good luck
Last edited by mmisa; 11-26-14 at 12:30 AM. Reason: supplemental info
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11-26-14, 02:31 AM
#8
Did you check if amplifier input is analog or digital?
On wiring circuits it look like it could be standard analog stereo input.
I don`t understand why there is separate input for Stereo Tuner and Radio/Player.
And how works volume balancing between front and rear.
Did you measure both OEM sub circuits? Both have 12 Ohms?
On wiring circuits it look like it could be standard analog stereo input.
I don`t understand why there is separate input for Stereo Tuner and Radio/Player.
And how works volume balancing between front and rear.
Did you measure both OEM sub circuits? Both have 12 Ohms?
11-26-14, 04:49 PM
#9
After 5 years of ownership, I replaced my subwoofer with OEM for a little under 300 bucks and all is well. No rewiring or anticipation of blown amps. All is well and the music sounds great.
11-26-14, 05:23 PM
#10
I am currently in the middle of this same exact project and running into problems. I have been researching this issue for hours on end on Club Lexus and throughout Google, so I wanted to give you the benefit of what I have found out. You may run into the same issues. I used to install car stereos and competition sound systems in high school and my college days, so I have quite a bit of experience with car audio wiring, fabrication, etc. Of course they are doing unbelievable things now in this industry that is way over my head now....
I have a 2001 Ultra Luxury with Mark Levinson. I first tried upgrading the blown woofer with a Polk audio woofer, but that was unsatisfactory because even if you wire it in series, it is only 8 ohms and the ML amp wants 12 ohms. I decided to go with an aftermarket amp and sub setup instead. I am using an Audio Control LC2i for my LOC. I have an Alpine MRV-500 amp and also had a JL Audio Basswedge C212-WXv2 ((2) 12" subs). I tapped the wires coming out of the amp. I know the exact colors for you:
Gray: switched 12V+
Blue (pin 15): (L) woofer (-)
Black (pin 14): (R) woofer (-)
Light Green (pin 6): (L) woofer (+)
Yellow (pin 5): (R) woofer (+)
If you desire to tap the woofer directly, you are only going to get two wires. Apparently this ML amp bridges the subwoofer output, so those four wires terminate at the wiring connector to the ML stock sub. The yellow wire becomes the red wire, which is actually (-), to the sub, and the light green wire, which is actually (+), becomes the black wire to the sub. The other two blue and black wires from the amp terminate at the connector. If you want to use the the light green and yellow wires at the amp, it will be the same as using the two wires at the sub.
Here is where the problem starts. Once you get everything hooked up, the amplifier apparently has a protection circuit that cuts off the bass signal, so you will be rocking for a few short moments, then the protection kicks in and the bass doesn't work anymore until you turn it down. I initially used all four sub wires coming from the amp, but then I read that the amp wants to see a 12 ohm load for it to be a stable output because our stock sub is 12 ohm. So as suggested, I used ONLY the two sub wires (light green and yellow, which is the same as the black and red wires going to the old sub) and added a 12 ohm, 100W resistor between them, before I then split the signal back into four wires, going into the LC2i. This resistor is kind of a pain to get BTW. I called almost every electronic parts store in the greater Los Angeles and Orange County areas without success. I ended up getting one on Amazon with next day shipping.
This signal going this route became rather strong and I had to turn down the bass level input control on the LC2i and the gain on the Alpine amp. Accubass has been turned off the entire time BTW. However, I still have the amp protection circuit problem.....
So now I am going to try tapping the (L) and (R) rear speaker outputs instead (which has been suggested by a number of users on this forum) that would not require the 12 ohm, 100W resistor. I will let you know how that turns out. I know the wire colors/pin locations for those wires as well if you decide to go that route:
Red (pin 10): (R) rear speaker (-)
Yellow (pin 11): (L) rear speaker (-)
White (pin 3): (R) rear speaker (+)
Black (pin 4): (L) rear speaker (+)
If anyone who reads this happens to know what I can do to prevent the protection circuit from coming on on the ML subwoofer output, I would certainly appreciate it. I am spending WAY too much time on supplementing the bass output of this car. The factory JBL/Navigation system of my 2011 Toyota Camry SE (with (4) 6 x 9's) kicks the *** and wipes the floor of this stupid Mark Levinson system. I should be knocking everything loose with (2) 12's, but it doesn't even come close.
Good luck
I have a 2001 Ultra Luxury with Mark Levinson. I first tried upgrading the blown woofer with a Polk audio woofer, but that was unsatisfactory because even if you wire it in series, it is only 8 ohms and the ML amp wants 12 ohms. I decided to go with an aftermarket amp and sub setup instead. I am using an Audio Control LC2i for my LOC. I have an Alpine MRV-500 amp and also had a JL Audio Basswedge C212-WXv2 ((2) 12" subs). I tapped the wires coming out of the amp. I know the exact colors for you:
Gray: switched 12V+
Blue (pin 15): (L) woofer (-)
Black (pin 14): (R) woofer (-)
Light Green (pin 6): (L) woofer (+)
Yellow (pin 5): (R) woofer (+)
If you desire to tap the woofer directly, you are only going to get two wires. Apparently this ML amp bridges the subwoofer output, so those four wires terminate at the wiring connector to the ML stock sub. The yellow wire becomes the red wire, which is actually (-), to the sub, and the light green wire, which is actually (+), becomes the black wire to the sub. The other two blue and black wires from the amp terminate at the connector. If you want to use the the light green and yellow wires at the amp, it will be the same as using the two wires at the sub.
Here is where the problem starts. Once you get everything hooked up, the amplifier apparently has a protection circuit that cuts off the bass signal, so you will be rocking for a few short moments, then the protection kicks in and the bass doesn't work anymore until you turn it down. I initially used all four sub wires coming from the amp, but then I read that the amp wants to see a 12 ohm load for it to be a stable output because our stock sub is 12 ohm. So as suggested, I used ONLY the two sub wires (light green and yellow, which is the same as the black and red wires going to the old sub) and added a 12 ohm, 100W resistor between them, before I then split the signal back into four wires, going into the LC2i. This resistor is kind of a pain to get BTW. I called almost every electronic parts store in the greater Los Angeles and Orange County areas without success. I ended up getting one on Amazon with next day shipping.
This signal going this route became rather strong and I had to turn down the bass level input control on the LC2i and the gain on the Alpine amp. Accubass has been turned off the entire time BTW. However, I still have the amp protection circuit problem.....
So now I am going to try tapping the (L) and (R) rear speaker outputs instead (which has been suggested by a number of users on this forum) that would not require the 12 ohm, 100W resistor. I will let you know how that turns out. I know the wire colors/pin locations for those wires as well if you decide to go that route:
Red (pin 10): (R) rear speaker (-)
Yellow (pin 11): (L) rear speaker (-)
White (pin 3): (R) rear speaker (+)
Black (pin 4): (L) rear speaker (+)
If anyone who reads this happens to know what I can do to prevent the protection circuit from coming on on the ML subwoofer output, I would certainly appreciate it. I am spending WAY too much time on supplementing the bass output of this car. The factory JBL/Navigation system of my 2011 Toyota Camry SE (with (4) 6 x 9's) kicks the *** and wipes the floor of this stupid Mark Levinson system. I should be knocking everything loose with (2) 12's, but it doesn't even come close.
Good luck
11-27-14, 10:42 PM
#12
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thanks sr20 and fellas, ive been looking for this link, it actually helped me run my power for my aftermarket air and couldnt find it again. thanks again
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