sam12345

iTrader: (1)

When the tensioner kicks in it takes the slack out of the belt and the slack is making you think you have the tooth correct, then when the tensioner kicks in your are off by one tooth. Put it off one tooth and then it will be correct when the tensioner puts its pressure. Obviously check it to make sure

LScowboyLS

what I do for the preliminary lining up of the belt and pulley marks, is put tension on the belt with my hand, at the same point where the tensioner is, simulating the tensioner being engaged

this is a good trick also

adrenelin5

That's exactly what I did and it worked like a charm. Rotated the crank twice and it lines up perfectly now.The tensioner is holding the belt very tight as it should. As I said before I suspect the plastic managed to cause the belt to slip. If I'm wrong I guess I'll have to deal with that sooner or later. Battery's low so I have to wait for it to charge. I'll update when I get her started. Funny thing though when I got the tensioner on, by pure fluke the timing marks on the belt also just happened to line up.

adrenelin5

Engine sounds very nice. Idle's nice and even, no fluxuating whatsoever. Still haven't got the serpentine belt on so I'm guessing that's where the engine and trac off lights are coming from. To tired to check the codes. The engine sounds better than it has ever sounded so I'm not to concerned.

python

iTrader: (4)

awesome! hope u got it fixed..nice work

adrenelin5

Well the engine sounds great. Had to hold my breath there while turning it over.

I appreciate everyone's help. I definitely couldn't have figured this out without you guys.

LScowboyLS

You should try the breath-hold when you crank up a 95 & newer interference engine, knowing at that moment if you screwed up it is gonna be $4000 in repairs

adrenelin5

O.K. not quite out of the woods yet. I'm still getting trac code 51. I understand this code is to only signify there is an engine code to be dealt with. I've checked for any engine codes a few times now and there's nothing to be found. I cleared it but it is coming and going with no rhyme or reason.

adrenelin5

Now code 13 has popped up again, but as soon as I put the car in reverse the trouble lights turned off again. The codes are coming and going as I drive. Someone mentioned the cam position sensor wiring might be suspect. If it's the wires that run through the lower cam cover then I noticed the one on the left cam had a wire that ran along side the others only for this wire had no sheathing over it except for the sheathing that covered all the wires. The wire was silver in color and had breaks in it. Does anyone know if that would be a ground? I think it 's possible I did damage to the 18 year old wire while moving them around.

If not does the ECU possibly behave this way while it relearns the new cam adjustments?

So far as I can tell the engine still runs/sounds good.

LScowboyLS

I would definitely get a scanner and clear all stored codes and see which ones come back

adrenelin5

It's the OB1 so it's hard to come by. Besides there are instructions on how to clear them which I followed. Once again I went out just now and the lights came on. After 5 minutes they went off and stayed off. I just need to find out what that wire is for that's broken. Car still seems to run fine.

LScowboyLS

yes, there are no optional wires in the LS400, so go ahead and repair it, you can figure it what it was for later!

adrenelin5

Perhaps that's whats giving me the engine light still. Another thing is last night coolant drenched both sides of the cam plug/connection below it. I poured some rubbing alcohol in them and waited for a while for them to dry. Perhaps though I was a little hasty, I don't think they were as dry as they should have been. As for now the car still has plenty of power. Maybe more than it has ever had while I've owned it so I'm reluctant to think the belt has slipped. Anyhow I'll be checking it tomorrow as well as taking care of the other possible issues.

cobalt91

probly a good idea to start gettin the parts together to do the full timing belt job. Just to be on the safe side. These things always see to happen when you least expect it.

adrenelin5

Turns out I initially didn't set the belt on the right timing mark on the passenger side. While looking everything over I noticed there is a notch put there that needs to line up to the rotor. Soon as I realized that I was able to get everything in sync. Engine sounds super smooth and no engine lights. It's been a rough month between the starter, alternator and timing but I figure I saved myself oh maybe $3000.