Amskeptic

. . . that the brake rotors do not ever need to be hammered to free them from the hubs?

I was visiting the Lexls forum tutorials and the DIY brake tutorial mentioned hammering the rotors free of the hubs.

I borrowed the 12mm bolts holding the radiator supports and merely screwed them into the threaded holes provided on each rotor near the hubs. The bolts pulled the rotors free of the hub just as nice as can be. I like that about Toyota engineering.
Colin

(p.s. if you are a serious high speed enthusiast, I suggest that you get a razor blade to clean the alloy wheel flange contact surfaces, and some sandpaper to clean the brake rotor and hub flange surfaces, inside and outside to a beautiful polished state to help you achieve perfect rotational alignment. Just a little rusty crap build-up can increase your run-out past specification. I use a thin coating of anti-seize on all contact surfaces just before reassembly)

edtbjon

Sounds a lil' bit like the old saying: "White man - big fire, red man - small fire". I.e. you only need to screw the bolts in a bit and suddenly just "click" and you're done ... unless you prefer force, violence and possibly braking things that is.

Great tip by the way.

//Björn

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

i mentioned this in my rotor/pad tutorial
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=224819

19psi

that works 95% of the time but the other 5% the rust is so bad that the threads strip out of the holes and then the BFH is needed.

taxcucub

have a look

Amskeptic

SEE?
If I had used the "search" function . . . I wouldn't have been so exexexcited at my brilliant "discovery".

Anyways, after 220 grit sanding the disk friction surfaces with a beautiful 90* cross-hatch pattern, and cleaning the mounting flanges, I still have a pulsing pedal when applying the brakes at 80>20 mph.
(the Mercedes has original disks front and rear, no pulsing even with heavy use in the twisties)




I shall try the Brembo disks when I get back to Atlanta.
ColinTodayInClevelandOH

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

did you have your rotors cut/turned?

Amskeptic

Ahhhhh no.

Very much many more times than not have I discovered that the glaze from the pads can yield a pulse in stopping behavior if the car has sat for too long with rust on the disk everywhere but where it was protected by the pads. Cross-hatch sanding and re-break-in of pads has cured enough pulsing in my experience that I do it first, then I will crabbily contract out a disk turn if the sanding does not help. Then, when the turning turns out to screw it up even worse, I will replace the disks.
Colin

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

brembo rotors are ~$70-80/each plus shipping

getting rotors turned costs me $8/each. (at most).


id turn them before buying a new set.

McSwine

I've got a set of the Brembo's and LBJ's I need to install...

saw your post about the pitman arm puller instead of the "tuning fork".

Any other words of wisdom before I start? My pads are reasonably new; any problem using them with new rotors?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

nope, just make sure you bed the pads in properly.


make sure to tie the caliper ot the upper a-arm when you unbolt it to keep stress off the line.

damon

Will "turning" help a rotor you suspect to be warped??

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

yes .

gmacrae

im surprised sanding the rotor has ever helped you. Just remember if you're getting it skimmed that it might've been done before and they're only built with so much meat in them. Also, if its quite warped and you skim it, you could end up with flat surfaces but an out of balance rotor. The machinist should be able to tell you if this is the case.

Can you guys get DBA rotors? (australian i think). They're usually so cheap here its hardly worth getting the old discs skimmed.