When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I use rhino ramps.... no issues there. Jacking points are abundant. You can jack on the rear diff, front crossmember, several points along the sill/chassis rails where you use the factory jack (look at your manual).
If you think safety....... DO NOT use plastic Rhino Ramps because the LS is a heavy car and plastic ramps "MAY" collapse. Just do a google search: "Rhino ramp collapse"
Your loss may more than just financial by using cheap plastic ramps.
RACE RAMPS are quality safe plastic ramps but expensive......... If you want AFFORDABLE safe car ramps just build your own out of wood...... Plenty of diagrams on DIY wood car ramps all over the net. Wood is strong and very inexpensive for making a set of car ramps. If you are near a construction site or know a building contractor the wood will cost you $0.00...... just ask for some 2x10 cut offs OR go to Home Cheapo or Blows and buy a few 2x10's or 2x12's then cut to size.
If you think safety....... DO NOT use plastic Rhino Ramps because the LS is a heavy car and plastic ramps "MAY" collapse. Just do a google search: "Rhino ramp collapse"
Your loss may more than just financial by using cheap plastic ramps.
RACE RAMPS are quality safe plastic ramps but expensive......... If you want AFFORDABLE safe car ramps just build your own out of wood...... Plenty of diagrams on DIY wood car ramps all over the net. Wood is strong and very inexpensive for making a set of car ramps. If you are near a construction site or know a building contractor the wood will cost you $0.00...... just ask for some 2x10 cut offs OR go to Home Cheapo or Blows and buy a few 2x10's or 2x12's then cut to size.
Look in the owners manual for jacking points.
Pffft. I wouldn't worry about them anymore than anything else that comes with an element of risk. I've used mine with my 1 ton Superduty as well as about 8 other cars a hundred times or more, and never had any issue. Rock solid. I did google your terms, and found two posts which were dubious at best. If they were truly unsafe, your litigious countrymen would be all over this. Heck, even here in Canada...it would be a major lawsuit.
My .02
I've used the Rhino ramps for my LS, 1/2 ton 4X4 Silverado, Camry and Pontiac Vibe and Toyota Corolla with zero issues in regards to stability/strength. But, my concrete is too slick and will slide forward when driving on with rear wheel drive, no problems with the front wheel drive - and yes the little rubber inserts are intact and clean. I use a floor jack on rear diff to get rear end up. Buddy has set and has used them for years all everything he owns - including a 1 ton pickup with no issues.
My .02
I've used the Rhino ramps for my LS, 1/2 ton 4X4 Silverado, Camry and Pontiac Vibe and Toyota Corolla with zero issues in regards to stability/strength. But, my concrete is too slick and will slide forward when driving on with rear wheel drive, no problems with the front wheel drive - and yes the little rubber inserts are intact and clean. I use a floor jack on rear diff to get rear end up. Buddy has set and has used them for years all everything he owns - including a 1 ton pickup with no issues.
I occasionally have the same problem (sliding). What I do, is place a piece of 2x6 at the tires and drive onto the ramps from the wood. The elevated approach to the ramp seems to counter the sliding. I will say though, they slide less than the steel ones I used to use.
Chuck...Re-reading my post, I realize that it came across as harsh or "snippity". It wasn't meant to be.
Pfft.........No problem!
I just wanted to make sure the OP is "educated" on the potential hazards of these ramps if used incorrectly. Nothing is worse than getting crushed under a car. I saw a neighbor of mine back in 1973 who used cinder locks (instead of wood blocks or jack stands) had his 1962 VW Bug fall on him (crushed his skull) while installing an engine when one of the blocks failed... The image of his lifeless body laying there is still "etched" in my memory. Whenever I see someone doing something stupid I try to "help" them from getting hurt and 75% of the time I am told: "Yeah but I know what I am doing and this is none of your business"....... While they continue on a potential path to injury or possible death. EG: Using plastic TyWraps (for coil spring compression) while installing struts, using a tree branch for pulling an engine, pouring gasoline into a carb, using aluminum ladders near power lines and the list goes on.
I know a lot of guys use these Rhino Ramps with great results BUT be warned of potential failures if used wrong and ALWAYS use a pair of jack stands as a back up along with wheel chocks.
I built a set of wooden ramps. There is post somewhere giving details. Heavy as heck but well worth the it. Use it many times on the 3 cars I look after. I would like to get Quickjack.
I occasionally have the same problem (sliding). What I do, is place a piece of 2x6 at the tires and drive onto the ramps from the wood. The elevated approach to the ramp seems to counter the sliding. I will say though, they slide less than the steel ones I used to use.
@roadfrog , I have a need for ramps and appreciate the safety advice on this thread. I will be sure to have jack stands as backups. Did you get the 12,000- or 16,000-pound Rhino ramps? I mean, for a difference of $5 I guess I should get the higher weight-rated one. Just seems the 12,000-pound gets better reviews. Thank you.
@roadfrog , I have a need for ramps and appreciate the safety advice on this thread. I will be sure to have jack stands as backups. Did you get the 12,000- or 16,000-pound Rhino ramps? I mean, for a difference of $5 I guess I should get the higher weight-rated one. Just seems the 12,000-pound gets better reviews. Thank you.
On second thought, too many 1-star reviews about buckling and failure for these ramps. A reviewer said each ramp is stamped with 4,000-pound limit and cannot understand why the product is marketed as 16,000-pounds (twice what it should be). Perhaps I'll do what this person did:
If you use a floor jack under the rocker panels, in the OEM jack position, do yourself a favor and buy a couple of hockey pucks. Eyeball how deep and wide you want the slot to be for the 'ridge' on the rocker to be, and have at it with a hacksaw.
I think the small bag of 8 or 10 pucks I got through Amazon was like $12. Made a few for friends, and I need to make another one, as I've destroyed my first one (it's been used several dozen times at this point, and I've gotten careless with placement, at times).
On second thought, too many 1-star reviews about buckling and failure for these ramps. A reviewer said each ramp is stamped with 4,000-pound limit and cannot understand why the product is marketed as 16,000-pounds (twice what it should be). Perhaps I'll do what this person did:
What are measurements, if you don’t mind sharing ?
12-11-16, 04:41 PM
Safely raising the LS 460
Heck, even here in Canada...it would be a major lawsuit.
