Jack points question for DIYers
#1
Driver School Candidate
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Jack points question for DIYers
Anyone know if there's an adaptor for a standard floor jack saddle for the jack points on the LS?.
The jack points have vertical flanges, I assume as a safety feature to keep the factory jack from slipping, as its saddle has a slot to fit the flange. For you DYIers not using a lift, are you using the factory jack or a block of wood w/ a floor jack, or something else? If there's an adapter, I couldn't find it. A plain flat saddle bends the flange, and then you have to bend it back to use it w/the factory jack, and the strees can't be good for the flange. Jacking under frame where a lift would reach it is pretty hard, as the frame is pretty far inboard, but that looks like the only way to do it.
Any thoughts welcome. Thanks.
The jack points have vertical flanges, I assume as a safety feature to keep the factory jack from slipping, as its saddle has a slot to fit the flange. For you DYIers not using a lift, are you using the factory jack or a block of wood w/ a floor jack, or something else? If there's an adapter, I couldn't find it. A plain flat saddle bends the flange, and then you have to bend it back to use it w/the factory jack, and the strees can't be good for the flange. Jacking under frame where a lift would reach it is pretty hard, as the frame is pretty far inboard, but that looks like the only way to do it.
Any thoughts welcome. Thanks.
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (5)
a lot of people have had great success with using a piece of wood with a slit in it, but that just
isnt for me.
my approach was to take a piece of square tubing, and cut a slit in it (pretty much mimic the scissor jack)
the thicker the (gauge of the) square tubing, the better, obviously.
i think 13 gauge would do quite nicely.
i think i got 16 gauge at home depot, but i did not like how thin it was. i also wasnt able to cut it because once i had it secured in my vice, it put horizontal tension on the metal and would not allow me to cut a slit in the top easily because the saw blade kept binding.
thats when i went to a metal supply place and found some 13 guage bar stock that looks to be more than efficient. i never got around to doing it though, as i have 3 other project cars that need more love.
anyways, a 1 to 1.5" wide by 2" long piece of square tubing should suffice both to put on the pinch weld for jacking OR stand purposes.
isnt for me.
my approach was to take a piece of square tubing, and cut a slit in it (pretty much mimic the scissor jack)
the thicker the (gauge of the) square tubing, the better, obviously.
i think 13 gauge would do quite nicely.
i think i got 16 gauge at home depot, but i did not like how thin it was. i also wasnt able to cut it because once i had it secured in my vice, it put horizontal tension on the metal and would not allow me to cut a slit in the top easily because the saw blade kept binding.
thats when i went to a metal supply place and found some 13 guage bar stock that looks to be more than efficient. i never got around to doing it though, as i have 3 other project cars that need more love.
anyways, a 1 to 1.5" wide by 2" long piece of square tubing should suffice both to put on the pinch weld for jacking OR stand purposes.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
I use the center support on the front and the rear diff as my jack points per the owners manual. Also if you must use the pinch points for jacking I recommend a Jackjaw from FIGs
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=188
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=188
#4
i use the front and rear supports as stated above.i use a low profile jack.if you dont have a low profile jack you can jack up the front left or right side using the jack point behind the tire and put a jack stand under the front support bean then use you jack to lift the front at the middle jack point.
Last edited by jimbosr1; 09-10-13 at 10:38 AM.
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