LS460 Door light module? PLS HELP!!
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
LS460 Door light module? PLS HELP!!
So, a couple of days ago I installed some LED bulbs in the door light sockets for improved looks.
As I was installing the driver rear doors bulb, I accidentally touched the tip of the screw driver to the metal prongs of the light socket. There was a small arc, and since then this light ONLY has been weak, barely lit when the door is open. However! When I push the button on the chassis that senses the doors closing, the light becomes stronger.
I checked the fuses, but since the circuit is complete, I figured they were going to be intact anyway.
The only thing I can think of is that there's a module somewhere which controls the light itself, and maybe I fried that?
This is really annoying...
If anyone has any idea what could be wrong, please help!
Regards,
As I was installing the driver rear doors bulb, I accidentally touched the tip of the screw driver to the metal prongs of the light socket. There was a small arc, and since then this light ONLY has been weak, barely lit when the door is open. However! When I push the button on the chassis that senses the doors closing, the light becomes stronger.
I checked the fuses, but since the circuit is complete, I figured they were going to be intact anyway.
The only thing I can think of is that there's a module somewhere which controls the light itself, and maybe I fried that?
This is really annoying...
If anyone has any idea what could be wrong, please help!
Regards,
#2
I guess it is possible that you damaged the doorjamb switch. It's pretty easy to swap the switch with one on another door to rule that out.
Check here for details about the removing the switch: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post7864196
Check here for details about the removing the switch: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post7864196
#3
I had the exact same thing occur to both of my front doors when installing LED bulbs. I changed out the door jam switches and both of the light sockets with no success. This is an absolute mystery. I have no problems with either rear door.
#4
I suggest that you search the forum, I recall reading about couple of cases like this where the door light hub/multiplixer was fried, also changing to LED. I also recall it is $500 part.
#5
Last edited by jmcraney; 09-04-15 at 09:32 AM.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Ma
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Same problem
I had a same problem today changing the to led bulb and touch the metal with screw driver ..... ow don't know what to do ... checked the fuses and they r all good .... found ur thread so just want to know what you did to fix that problem .... thanx in advance
#7
Driver School Candidate
Since this has a new post I'll add my issue as well. It's similar, both rear doors are out. Nothing else seems to be not working. Checking the socket with a test light I have power on one side of the socket but not the other. Reading Roadfrogs post her: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post8876327 Gives me fuse numbers but looking in the at the actual panel door I see nothing that corresponds to those numbers. Also if I did fry the MULTIPLEX NETWORK DOOR COMPUTER Part number 89223-50300 - would any of the ones on ebay for that part # work? I see lots from older 430's and such.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
Trending Topics
#8
Bumping this as I have this issue with the driver's door light. Has anyone replaced the multiplex door computer and fixed the issue? I am finding a lot of used ones on Ebay, just wondering ablut the install and the end results.
#9
Intermediate
As this was never replied to, I can now confirm that replacing the door multiplex control module does resolve this issue.
Mine was damaged when I put a screwdriver in the bulb socket, shorting the circuit while the bulb was receiving power. Since then the bulb connector has put out only 9v. All other functions including seat recliners and memory were unaffected.
After replacing with a multiplex unit with one from Ebay, courtesy lighting is back in its cold white LED glory.
Words to the wise: Always unplug the clear plastic housing before replacing the bulb. Plug the connector back in to test after replacement.
TLDR: never short circuit a door bulb (or any probably) in an LS.
Mine was damaged when I put a screwdriver in the bulb socket, shorting the circuit while the bulb was receiving power. Since then the bulb connector has put out only 9v. All other functions including seat recliners and memory were unaffected.
After replacing with a multiplex unit with one from Ebay, courtesy lighting is back in its cold white LED glory.
Words to the wise: Always unplug the clear plastic housing before replacing the bulb. Plug the connector back in to test after replacement.
TLDR: never short circuit a door bulb (or any probably) in an LS.
#10
I think my multiplex network door computer went bad also. Where is it located? My bulb is good and my door switch is good but there is only 9v going to the door connector when the door is open and then it actually raises a bit when I push in the door switch. So, there is a constant drain in my battery. What else could cause this? I don’t think it’s a bad ground because I also noticed that the oem bulb assembly plastic has weird discolored residue in it and therefore something must have happened to blow it out or short it in some way?
#11
Are you referring to a Lexus LS460, or is your Lexus a different model? On many Lexus models, I believe that the multiplex control module that you are speaking of, is in the door, one in each door and all four have different part #s.
#13
Intermediate
Fried both of mine today, so stoked.
#14
#15
Intermediate
It was complete happen stance, I think the woxma LEDs have an aluminum body and when I popped the light back into the door it somehow contacted both pins as it was working and lit during reassembly.
As I snapped it back in, it turned off.
Confused, I took it out and saw it was dim now, blaming the LED, I tried it in the driver's door but I usually have that door open when working on the car so it was hot. I was a bit impatient so I didn't disconnect the light from the socket and used a metal flathead to push it out and shorted that one as well.
There's no way in hell I'm buying new computers, all the other functions work, I'm going to crack it open and see what component I roasted. Some kind of voltage regulator I reckon.
As I snapped it back in, it turned off.
Confused, I took it out and saw it was dim now, blaming the LED, I tried it in the driver's door but I usually have that door open when working on the car so it was hot. I was a bit impatient so I didn't disconnect the light from the socket and used a metal flathead to push it out and shorted that one as well.
There's no way in hell I'm buying new computers, all the other functions work, I'm going to crack it open and see what component I roasted. Some kind of voltage regulator I reckon.