IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Won't start 08 IS350...has gas and spark..

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Old 01-09-16, 10:52 AM
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KIS350
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Default Won't start 08 IS350...has gas and spark..

Hey everyone,

So I have spent many hours trying to diagnose my engine troubles and many more hours reading through the abundance of posts on here. Thought I would try my own seeing as I'm getting nowhere. I have exhausted my knowledge and skill in trying to fix this and I'm now at the point of taking it to the dealer.

Problem: Car shut off while I was driving it...not the electrical power but the engine. When I safely pulled to the shoulder it wouldn't turn over. My first assumption was VVT as the startup rattle reminds me constantly that it needs to go in for the recall. Towed it home and have been working on it in my spare time for a few weeks. The codes I got were cam sensor and crank sensor. Replaced the ones indicated by the computer. Replaced the battery and the spark plugs as they were both old. Took the top end of the engine apart to check the VVT and they're fine...checked mechanical timing of the chains and tension...all checked out fine. Put it all back together new battery, new plugs, new sensors, and the first turn over started...ran for 45 seconds and died. I have yet to get it to start again. And it's kicked out new codes triggering the VSC & check engine light.

Things I know:
Fuel pump is working
All coils are properly functioning
All plugs are properly functioning (replaced with oem plugs)
Battery terminals are clean and functioning
Battery is good and new
I can't find any shorts visually (I've painstakingly inspected the looms several times throughout the engine compartment)
Key fob is working properly...battery is new
Gas on the spark plugs every time I take them out so it's getting gas
Throttle body is clean of debris and no build up (just cleaned it)
Alternator is only a couple months old

The new codes I'm getting are the following:
P0113 intake air temp circuit high input
P0023 "B" camshaft position - actuator circuit (bank 2)
P0102 Mass or volume circuit low input
P0020 "A" camshaft position - actuator circuit (bank 2)
P0348 Camshaft Position sensor "A" circuit high input (bank 2)
P0393 Camshaft Position sensor "B" circuit high input (bank 2)

Is there anything telling about these codes as a whole? I don't have any wiring schematics to be able to efficiently go through checking if these are on shared circuitry and maybe there's a short on this loom...I don't know.

Remember that the original codes from the incident are gone. These codes are new and have been kicked without the engine running at all. Only from the car trying to start but the ignition times out after 10 seconds of attempting to start. I'm getting spark...and fuel to each cyliner...and the engine is turning over...

Any help in returning my sanity would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks!
Old 01-09-16, 07:59 PM
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LexSense
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Check MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor)
Old 01-10-16, 10:45 AM
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idoke1
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I would check the "ground" wires. I had the same thing happen too but it was from a 2003 Toyota camry. Look for it around the ECU and other areas.
Old 01-10-16, 06:29 PM
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Make sure the connections to the alternator are all tight. Test the alternator if possible.

I'd also agree with checking the grounds.
Old 01-10-16, 09:32 PM
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KIS350
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Thanks guys!

Update.... this is crazy...blew my mind tho you guys already new this. Lol.

Turns out the alternator I put on last year just totally seized while driving. I was doing the "deflood" process holding the peddle down while turning the car over and noticed a stream of smoke coming from front drivers side...reached down felt the pulley on the alternator and it was hot (from the serpentine belt spinning over the pully) . Realized it was completely seized...I've never in my life seen an alternator seize while driving before...crazy!

Thanks everyone...crisis resolved. Much appreciated.
Old 01-11-16, 04:03 PM
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KIS350
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Originally Posted by Gville350
Make sure the connections to the alternator are all tight. Test the alternator if possible.

I'd also agree with checking the grounds.
Sooooooo.....I have the new alternator in...the car turns over great...but won't start. I'm very confident that the alternator was the reason the car shut down during my last drive. But now it seems to be flooded. I took my brand new plugs out, dried them off and reinstalled them and let the engine sit with the plugs out to help dry out the cumbustion chamber and still nothing. It turns over then begins to sound like it's going to catch and then it stops sounding like it's going to catch and then the starter times out. It's not kicking any codes unlike before I changed the alternator. I've checked every fuse, every loom, and every connection at least 6 times. I've checked each coil, and plug to ensure they're working. I've gone over this engine with a fine tooth comb... everything is plugged in. I did try the "both pedals to the floor" trick too...still nothing. I'm totally stumped.

I've never had a hard time starting this car, ever. It's now had a makeover and it's giving me the middle finger.

Any thoughts...?

Last edited by KIS350; 01-11-16 at 04:11 PM.
Old 01-11-16, 09:25 PM
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MWIS350
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Maybe time to bring it to dealer or auto shop for diagnostic I think they charge $170. Then it's up to you to fixed it or not. How many mileage is your car?
Old 01-12-16, 04:01 PM
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What CELs are coming up?
Old 01-15-16, 09:07 AM
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KIS350
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Originally Posted by Gville350
What CELs are coming up?
Update....it was severely flooded...so much that even taking out the the plugs drying them and lightly blowing air into the cylinder didn't work. It took about an hour and a half of doing the gas pedal to the floor trick before starting. But happy to have my car back none the less.

Thanks guys much appreciated.

Gville350....I have a residual code from before. P0016 crank/cam timing fault. I know the chains are all tight. What could it be? It goes out and comes back...I'm thinking crank sensor/wiring....seems more often in wet weather...car runs great...like new...
Old 01-16-16, 12:42 PM
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http://www.obd-codes.com/p0016

Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position.

The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the "trigger". It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the Crank and Cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this P0016 code will set.
Symptoms of a P0016 will or may include: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination The engine may run but with reduced performance The engine may crank but not start The engine may exhibit a rattle near the harmonic balancer indicating the tone ring is damaged The engine may start and run, but poorly

Causes may include: Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear Misalignment of timing belt/chain Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken Bad crank sensor Bad cam sensor Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged

Possible Solutions First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck. If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor. If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck.
Old 01-16-16, 02:01 PM
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Thank you for the updated.
Old 11-12-16, 06:46 AM
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Gville350 is god
Old 11-12-16, 11:04 PM
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This was a good read. Glad you got it solved
Old 11-14-16, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BlckGhst
This was a good read. Glad you got it solved
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed it!!
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