DIY Removing Amber Headlight Side Marker
#1
DIY Removing Amber Headlight Side Marker
I thought I'd post a quick DIY for removing the amber LEDs in the headlights. The LEDs without the amber lenses are also amber so this involves desoldering the LEDs as well as changing out the amber reflector piece. I went with 5mm blue LEDs which may be trouble in the future since this may attract unwanted attention by the police. I'd probably suggest cool white LEDs to match the DRLs and headlights.
This weekend I opened up my headlights to black them out. So I thought that this would be a good time to change the dreaded amber side markers as well. I haven't seen any posts on this so I really didn't know what to expect. Here's something for all of you that are curious or are thinking about doing it.
*Note: if you're not going to attempt to take apart your headlight assemblies, then this DIY can not be accomplished any other way.
For this, you're going to need:
(tools needed to take apart your headlights....i.e. large oven, screwdriver/butter knife, clear silicone, the guts to do it, etc.)
soldering iron
wire cutters
5mm blue (or cool white) LEDs (2 per side)
2-AA battery holder from Radio Shack to test the LEDs
piece of clear diffuser lens
JB Weld
Here's the picture of the board. This is after I replaced the LEDs on the board. It's a fairly simple LED replacement. You have to remove the screw to gain access to the back of the board for soldering.
Use the battery holder to check the orientation of the LEDs (both before and after). Before you desolder the amber LED, touch the back leads to the LED and it will light with the red and black leads only in one direction. Make note of which is red when the LED lights up. Then, test the blue/white LED before you solder it in and make note of which leg matches with the red lead on the battery tester. This is the side that will match up with the side you marked on the board. (There's the LED symbol printed on the board for those of you familiar with doing it this way)
*Note: It'll probably be a good idea to test your headlights after soldering in the new LEDs by plugging it in BEFORE you heat and reseal your headlight assemblies. Nothing worse than finding out the LEDs are not working after you seal everything back up.
I used a piece of lens from a puddle lamp that's on the side mirrors. I had a spare sitting around so I used it. Next, I used the dremel to remove the lens from the rest of the puddle lamp housing. Then, I used the amber piece to trace an outline on the clear piece and cut it out with a dremel. I made it the same width as the amber piece and left it a little taller than the slot that it will cover. If you cut it the same size as the opening, you may expose some of the green board that the LEDs are mounted to...and this is worse than seeing amber.
Here's the viewing the front of the headlight trim with the clear diffuser piece installed.
Here's the back of the headlight trim where you can see some JB Weld on the corner of the diffuser piece. I used JB Weld along the top of the diffuser piece as well as some on the corner. I let it set up overnight to ensure a strong bond. Having a taller clear diffuser piece allows you to glue the top to the housing and cover the opening at the bottom.
Here's a picture with the flash. You can see the 2 distinct LEDs showing through the clear piece.
And without the flash as you would view it at night:
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck to all. And the standard disclaimer is applied: "You do this at your own risk and I will not be liable for any property/personal damage(s)".
This weekend I opened up my headlights to black them out. So I thought that this would be a good time to change the dreaded amber side markers as well. I haven't seen any posts on this so I really didn't know what to expect. Here's something for all of you that are curious or are thinking about doing it.
*Note: if you're not going to attempt to take apart your headlight assemblies, then this DIY can not be accomplished any other way.
For this, you're going to need:
(tools needed to take apart your headlights....i.e. large oven, screwdriver/butter knife, clear silicone, the guts to do it, etc.)
soldering iron
wire cutters
5mm blue (or cool white) LEDs (2 per side)
2-AA battery holder from Radio Shack to test the LEDs
piece of clear diffuser lens
JB Weld
Here's the picture of the board. This is after I replaced the LEDs on the board. It's a fairly simple LED replacement. You have to remove the screw to gain access to the back of the board for soldering.
Use the battery holder to check the orientation of the LEDs (both before and after). Before you desolder the amber LED, touch the back leads to the LED and it will light with the red and black leads only in one direction. Make note of which is red when the LED lights up. Then, test the blue/white LED before you solder it in and make note of which leg matches with the red lead on the battery tester. This is the side that will match up with the side you marked on the board. (There's the LED symbol printed on the board for those of you familiar with doing it this way)
*Note: It'll probably be a good idea to test your headlights after soldering in the new LEDs by plugging it in BEFORE you heat and reseal your headlight assemblies. Nothing worse than finding out the LEDs are not working after you seal everything back up.
I used a piece of lens from a puddle lamp that's on the side mirrors. I had a spare sitting around so I used it. Next, I used the dremel to remove the lens from the rest of the puddle lamp housing. Then, I used the amber piece to trace an outline on the clear piece and cut it out with a dremel. I made it the same width as the amber piece and left it a little taller than the slot that it will cover. If you cut it the same size as the opening, you may expose some of the green board that the LEDs are mounted to...and this is worse than seeing amber.
Here's the viewing the front of the headlight trim with the clear diffuser piece installed.
Here's the back of the headlight trim where you can see some JB Weld on the corner of the diffuser piece. I used JB Weld along the top of the diffuser piece as well as some on the corner. I let it set up overnight to ensure a strong bond. Having a taller clear diffuser piece allows you to glue the top to the housing and cover the opening at the bottom.
Here's a picture with the flash. You can see the 2 distinct LEDs showing through the clear piece.
And without the flash as you would view it at night:
Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck to all. And the standard disclaimer is applied: "You do this at your own risk and I will not be liable for any property/personal damage(s)".
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