xanderES

iTrader: (8)

There is an easier way to install the door panels. The way you guys have been doing it bends/breaks the long male tab on the outer corner of the doors and just makes it more of a p.i.t.a.. Here's the easier way:

Reinstall - do with your window down
This is to remove the window weatherstripping piece off the door panel that clips onto the top of the actual door.
Put the door panel on the floor face down - look underneath and up at the piece that clips onto the door
Use a flat head and push in the most middle part of each bare stainless steel connector and rotate the flat head. It will release and push the piece off. (If this is not working you are not catching the tiny metal edge)
Clip it back onto the top of the door making sure the male part of the clips are facing towards you.
Line up the biggest male part on the top right corner of the door to the female part on the door panel. This will line up the top right side. Push in. (RH sides) (Reversed for LH side)
Then line up the push fasteners on the left side. This will align all the fasteners of the door and push/bang on the cover until all the fasteners push in. (RH sides) (Reversed for LH side)

MadMark

When I did this to my 300zx, I wired mine to the open door switch (black rubber plunger in door jam). I wired the units I bought to a constant power source, the ground was made using the door plunger, where the ground circuit closes when the door was open (plunger extended). If you could wire it there, it might be easier than going through the door? What do you guys think about the quality of these units thus far?

SICK350

iTrader: (1)

This won't work for this kit as there is only one connection for all 4 sills, therefore it had to be wired to something that turned on when any door opened ei. The rear door lights or start button. I'm really happy with the quality for the price.

iceblast

You COULD do it this way, the plungers are there. The switch sees 12V at all times, and is grounded when the door is open (plunger extended). The front ones are in a nice location, but the back plunger is near the air bag module. I didnt feel like messing with it, so I did it Sick350's way.

BTW, the quality is very good. The machined metal is on par with OEM. The only complaint is the LED's... I find them a bit too bright and blue (for lack of a better description), I prefer it a bit softer.

iceblast

So after you fished the wires through the rubber door connector and through where the wiring clip is (interior of car, below seatbelt), did you just re-install the clip after? Its a bit tight with the wiring being pulled through, and I don't want to stress the wire too much.

I think I could have just tapped into the wiring clip directly. I saw the red/blue (22 AWG type wires) on the wiring clip. When I tested the doors, it was showing a constant 12V, but I think I was just impatient because there is a delay on those courtesy lights... You may not even have to pull your door skins afterall.

Also, since this kit connects all 4 sills, what did you use as a pass through to get from the drivers side to the passengers side?

Thanks in advance.

SICK350

iTrader: (1)

Yes I popped the clip back in I just slipped the wire between the cut out in the clip but it was tight, I wanted to tap into it directly but I kept getting constant power while doors were shut for some reason? I ran the wires that came with the kit under the dash to the passenger side, there was just enough wire but again it was tight. Sorry for the delay, hope that helps.

Alexbenz

any idea where to buy these? Don't see it anywhere anymore